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Old 10-28-2009, 04:14 PM   #16
rn98vette
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Nice write up! I never knew they made hose clamp pliers like that, I will be buying those real soon! Thanks!
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Old 10-28-2009, 04:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly03Z06 View Post
Well Done AJ
Just curious, how does the O'Rileys water pump manufacturer compare to OEM for fit, finish availablity and price? Understand you did this prior to a road trip, how easy was it to locate................in a hurry?

.........and approximately, what mileage were you at when you first noticed you might of had a leak?
I started smelling fluid just after 100,000 miles, but it was next to impossible to locate because I didn't realize how the leak was traveling. It was also dry in the engine bay. As far as availability, it's a very common pump. It goes on a very common LS1. I verified the leak at 3:30 PM and had the auto store pull one from their warehouse and send it to the store in one hour. The gasket will take a little longer to find but I lucked up with those also and found them the same day. Price was as I listed in the write-up, and that was for a new one.

Quote:
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Can I offer one thing? If you have the stock style spring clamps PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE replace them when you do this with either new ones or the more prefered wormdrive type. I just about blew the motor in my truck recently when I replaced the radiator and the bottom hose clamp decided to not clamp anymore and the hose came off. They are only a few bucks and don't depend on pressure to stay on the car, they tighten.


Also the pump replacement in my car with the LS was super easy, I didn't even need to remove the intake God love a C4.
That's probably a good idea only I don't know if I would use the traditional kind. During my first slow leak, I bought some of those and the leak got worse (I hated the OEM kind). After I put the OEM type back on, the leak stopped. I then went and bought those hose clamp pliers.
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Old 10-28-2009, 04:42 PM   #18
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That is my old roof. I have a new one now.
old roof !! no such thing as an OLD ROOF !!!

Wouldn't that be a Battle Hardened Roof Sir ?

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Old 10-28-2009, 04:48 PM   #19
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old roof !! no such thing as an OLD ROOF !!!

Wouldn't that be a Battle Hardened Roof Sir ?

Battle hardened and bloody leaking too. Damn thing has leaked on my seat controls for the last time. I have another DIY coming because of that thing. And to think, I replaced all the weatherstripping on it too!
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Old 10-28-2009, 05:23 PM   #20
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Thanks for another outstanding illustrated "how to" Junkman !!

Anyone have a suggestions for what Junkman could have used to hold the gaskets in place while installing the new water pump?

Would a dab of rtv have hurt anything ?
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:36 PM   #21
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DIY - Replacing the C5 Water Pump

GOOD SHOTT A.J


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Old 10-28-2009, 06:46 PM   #22
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AJ,

Thanks for taking the time to create and share all of your DIY write ups. As usual it was excellent.

Keep up the good work. (I hope you never upgrade to a C6 or C7, I want to keep my C5 for a while !)

Ingey
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:58 PM   #23
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i wish the service manuals i use are as good as your write ups
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Old 10-28-2009, 08:43 PM   #24
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AJ,

Thanks for taking the time to create and share all of your DIY write ups. As usual it was excellent.

Keep up the good work. (I hope you never upgrade to a C6 or C7, I want to keep my C5 for a while !)

Ingey
Don't worry, I plan on keeping my C5 until I croak!

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i wish the service manuals i use are as good as your write ups
I do too!

I was looking at the manual and it showed a picture of two bolts being removed from the water pump. Then it said remove the pump. I was like, "This damn thing is stuck!" Then I realized that I needed to remove 4 more bolts. The manual didn't say that but my buddy and Master mechanic said that service manuals are not written for people like me.

Damn manuals!
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Old 10-28-2009, 09:23 PM   #25
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Another write up to bookmark!
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:59 AM   #26
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Did you re-use the t-stat? It's a perfect time to replace it if it's never been done. Cheap insurance.
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:47 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by wdtiger View Post
Did you re-use the t-stat? It's a perfect time to replace it if it's never been done. Cheap insurance.


However, mine was recently changed and I can do it now in about 15 minutes. The hardest part of that job is of course the hose clamp.
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:50 AM   #28
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Benfold

Junkman, thanks for the detailed step by step. My C5 almost overheats and it drives me nuts. Have you heard of anyone with expierience lowering the temp that the fans kick on? Eckler's has a unit advertised that will allow you to adjust the temperature at which the fans engage. Or, how about the Be Cool, double row, aluminum, direct fit radiator? There's also an electric water pump that's advertised to lower the operating temp by as much as 20 degrees. I'm deployed on a Navy destroyer until Mar 2010, but want to stage all my parts before I return to do some mods. Do you have any inputs for the above mentioned items? The C5 runs great, runs cool at speed, but in traffic in Sacramento, OMG. I don't ever want to cook the engine, so I'm trying to find a lasting solution. Any inputs you have are much appreciated.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:17 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
That's called a "cover"!



I have not called it that since I was in the Navy back in the late 60's. Once a Marine always a Marine, and I respect you for that.
Again great write up and I look forward to your window leak fix.

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Old 10-29-2009, 10:59 AM   #30
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Junkman, thanks for the detailed step by step. My C5 almost overheats and it drives me nuts. Have you heard of anyone with expierience lowering the temp that the fans kick on? Eckler's has a unit advertised that will allow you to adjust the temperature at which the fans engage. Or, how about the Be Cool, double row, aluminum, direct fit radiator? There's also an electric water pump that's advertised to lower the operating temp by as much as 20 degrees. I'm deployed on a Navy destroyer until Mar 2010, but want to stage all my parts before I return to do some mods. Do you have any inputs for the above mentioned items? The C5 runs great, runs cool at speed, but in traffic in Sacramento, OMG. I don't ever want to cook the engine, so I'm trying to find a lasting solution. Any inputs you have are much appreciated.
Sampson, you've been reading too many threads over at CF!

First of all, I need to change your way of thinking about this whole problem. Nothing needs to be reprogrammed. What must happen is you need to address the reason your car is over heating. From the problem you are having, I can already tell that:
  • You car has a lot of miles on it
  • The radiator has either never been cleaned or changed.

The first thing you need to do is look at this thread. This is the no cost first step in diagnosing overheating issues. If this doesn't resolve your issue, then you need to look at one of two things: the thermostat or the radiator itself. I say this assuming that if the water pump was going bad, it would leak (at least everyone that I've had go bad, leaked first). The thermostat is a cheap fix but of the two, it is most likely not the problem. You can go ahead and replace it but DO NOT get anything other than the stock temperature thermostat. So many guys have the misconception that a lower thermostat will make your engine operate at a cooler temperature. People who think this are totally in the dark about how the cooling system works on a car.

If the thermostat doesn't resolve your issue, then you are looking at a new radiator. I paid $190 for a brand new aluminum radiator for my C5 so the cost is not an issue if you were thinking about going the BeCool route. Talk about overkill, the only reason you need to look in that direction is if you have heavily modified your engine and are producing way more heat than stock.

You and I both have read a lot of threads on overheating issues all over the various Corvette forums. Here's what so many people fail to realize until you bring it up. If the car never had a overheating issue when it was new, then it must have obviously been designed with a effective cooling system. If the initial design was more than effective (and it was, no matter where you lived), then there is no need to re-engineer it if your engine is stock. You will hear guys say that once they changed their radiator to a BeCool or other high performance brand, their overheating issues went away. You know why? BECAUSE THEIR ORIGINAL RADIATOR WAS BAD TO BEGIN WITH! Had they replaced their radiator with a stock OEM one, their overheating issues would have still went away because they addressed the problem!

Remember this rule: Don't re-engineer the engine, address the problem. If you address the problem, the issue will eliminate itself. There are a lot of GM engineering wanna-be's out there posting on the various forums (especially CF). Don't let them suck you down to their level with an engine that has been designed by guys who actually know what they are doing. If these wanna-be's actually did know what they were talking about, their paychecks would have a GM logo on it and be in the 6-figure a year range.

Let me know if I am correct about your car and we'll take it from there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by TR6Speed View Post
I have not called it that since I was in the Navy back in the late 60's. Once a Marine always a Marine, and I respect you for that.
Again great write up and I look forward to your window leak fix.

Damn, now you're giving me work!
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