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Old 11-03-2009, 04:55 AM   #61
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Make sure to post some pictures when it's done. The lights look nice at night!

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Old 11-03-2009, 07:07 AM   #62
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AJ , great job on those lights. A much more sophisticated look than the danky OEM plastic lens !!

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Old 11-03-2009, 07:57 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
I had been working on my headlights for about 19 hours straight when I posted that. I usually proof-read my post before I post them but I think I fell asleep in my chair.

At least I'm just about done!
Yes i saw the post they look awesum. Hell now you gave me the bug, my wife wants to know who this junkman is that keeps filling my head with ideas. Can you pm me some info on these if you get time. Like price,vendor, and anything that will help installing them i know you said it was a PITA but damn they look nice.
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Old 03-15-2010, 03:14 AM   #64
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ATTENTION: CAMARO/FIREBIRD/TRANSAM LS1 OWNERS EASY DO IT YOURSELF WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT!

Thanks Junkman2008 for your post and pics... I have a 2001 Camaro SS Convertible 6M that I love to death and it started spewin' DexCool on the parking lot of the local burger joint for lunch on Monday (not Cool)... So I took it up to the first local mechanic's shop I drove past before I lost anymore coolant, he has a look at it and goes in that condescending-I'm-gonna-rape-your-wallet-voice "Well, the water pump is gonna cost you $490 and that's about 5 or 6 hours of labor to put it in place there cuz you got a fancy car there (his actual words) so that's gonna be about $1000 plus taxes..." I said I don't think so, then he went to stage two defense trying to say all mechanics would quote the same to which I replied "I can't afford that, let's fill it with water" so I could get the HELL out of there. You can imagine what I REALLY wanted to say to him but somehow I am better at using restraint than I used to be.

I get online and start googling about LS1 water pumps and find your EXCELLENT post. It gave me the confidence to realize how EASY this job is, I'm telling you almost anybody can do this and actually ENJOY it, it's that great.

I ordered a new Bosch LS1 replacement pump online, delivered to me Thursday for $210CDN (a bit more than yours but from a Canadian source and express shipping) I then treated myself to a new torque wrench, HOSE-CLAMP PLIERS - (the BEST tool EVER), new upper rad hose section (old one was baloonin' kinda scary), 2 jugs of Prestone DexCool, Prestone SuperFlush, and a RadRescue flushing tee kit from Canadian Tire here, my cost for all supplies including pump was $300.

I cut the heater core hose (smallest hose out of the pump) to install the flushing tee (easy comes with two screw hose clamps), opened the radiator cap and petcock and attached the garden hose, turned on the hose SLOWLY and started the car to get 134,000 miles of old dirty dexcool the hell out, after only a few minutes the rad is runnin' clear.

Closed the petcock, added the SuperFlush, topped up the rad water, closed the radiator cap, started the car and ran for 10 minutes, (turn your heater on full) and then flushed it all out as above.

DETAILED COOLANT FLUSH VIDEO HERE

Notice I did all this BEFORE installing the new water pump. You DO NOT want to have ANY old circulating coolant and contaminants even think about touching your shiny beautiful new pump!

I did do a couple modifications to Junkman's procedure only to speed things up for Camaro/Firebird owners...

1) The airbox/MAF can be left all together, leave the MAF connector clip on, just loosen the screw clamp on the accordion part of the MAF where it meets the throttle body, pull it off as one with the air box lid and invert it back over towards the drivers side, tons of play to do this in the SS, take the air filter out (I also have the K&N) and place it in the lid out of the way... Now the bottom part of the lid is a temporary tool tray! (ok probably not recommended but come on I cleaned it all out after with engine cleaner - can you believe I even found a soda straw under the filter - how did that get in there?)

2) Take off the throttle body - easy it's three 10mm bolts in a triangle, take off the two small hoses (again the difference in this job being ridiculously easy and a pain is the HOSE CLAMP PLIERS - BUY SOME ALREADY!) that connect the throttle body to the block and the upper rad. For the Camaro I found this was necessary for easy clearance of the old and new water pump.

3) DO NOT pre-attach the belt tensioner pulley to the new water pump before installing, not a big deal but I found it a real pain to get at the passenger side water pump bolts for tightening and torquing with the pulley installed, there's tons of clearance to attach the pulley after.

4) Preload the 6 - 10mm bolts in the water pump, then put the new gaskets overtop and use both hands to carefully put the pump into place. (Position the grip of each palm and fingers of your hands to prevent the bolts from sliding back as you maneuver - The gasket bolt holes are just big enough for the bolts and thus align the gaskets perfectly, just start hand tightening and after a couple of bolts you can breathe again!) DO NOT USE RTV SEALANT/SILICONE/GASKETMAKER/GOOP! It is not necessary, these gaskets are O-rings in the metal cutout, they are fatter than the cutout width, they form a PERFECT seal under compression. MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN THE MATING SURFACE OF THE BLOCK FIRST! RTV could POSSIBLY lessen that effect by not allowing the spec 22 lb ft torque to squeeze those O-rings as tight.

5) In my case, the local parts place gave me the WRONG thermostat ... I'm ready to get my damn car rolling again already so I used the old one, my car never overheated so supposedly it's ok. I did use a very thin smear of RTV on the outer edge of the thermostat housing, as I had my doubts on whether the old compressed gasket would hold. The RTV I used was grey, made by Permatex specifically for thermostat housing. Says it takes 24hrs to cure fully and it's sealed perfectly.

Once again Junkman, THANK YOU - These points were written only to add to your great post for all the other shadetree mechanics searching online - DO IT it's so easy! - and the knowledge that I saved myself $800 from a 'mechanic' thief is SOOO DAMN GOOD - I booked a trip to Hawaii instead.

I'm not a Corvette owner (YET) but I still have an LS1 heart.

Thanks,
Chris

P.S. Hindsight is 20/20 but for a few weeks before I noticed a faint marbles-in-a-box noise, but couldn't tell from where...this is the sound of failing water pump bearings before the seal is about to spew... Well now I know.

Last edited by 01CamSSVert; 03-15-2010 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 03-15-2010, 04:28 AM   #65
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first off, welcome to DC.

Now I hope you also posted this on some CAMARO/FIREBIRD/TRANSAM LS1 boards so that they can benefit from your awesome write up. There are quite a few of them out there.

To think that a Google search bought you here is kinda interesting! Glad it worked out for you.

P.S. How about those hose clamp pliers!!!
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:22 PM   #66
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Just want to say thanks to the Junkman for convincing me that this is something that even I can do.

I changed my water pump, both belts, and my idler pulley and wouldn't have even though to attempt this if it weren't for this post!

I figured that I saved about 600 bucks by doing it myself. I followed the post to a 'T' and took my time.

Thanks again to the Junkman and everyone else who put the time and effort into making these types of DYI posts. Your hard work and efforts do not go unoticed!

Ron..
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:02 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMB97LS1 View Post
Just want to say thanks to the Junkman for convincing me that this is something that even I can do.

I changed my water pump, both belts, and my idler pulley and wouldn't have even though to attempt this if it weren't for this post!

I figured that I saved about 600 bucks by doing it myself. I followed the post to a 'T' and took my time.

Thanks again to the Junkman and everyone else who put the time and effort into making these types of DYI posts. Your hard work and efforts do not go unoticed!

Ron..
Thanks for chiming in Ron and welcome to DC!

I too was one who thought that I would never have the capabilities to work on this car. As time has passed and I have ventured more and more into this car, I have found that working on this car for a novice is very possible with the correct tools and information. I knew that I was hooked the day I saw my engine block with the heads removed. I said to myself that if I successfully fix this, I am never going to visit a mechanic again. I fixed it and I felt like a kid who had taken his first dump on the big boys toilet.

So welcome to the road of DIY. If the bug bites you, the sky is the limit.
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:28 PM   #68
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Fantastic

Great write up! Just had my vette mechanic tell me my pump was leaking. Thought it would be a challenge, but this should be easy.
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Old 02-07-2014, 09:49 PM   #69
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Not 'should be'... IS.
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:09 AM   #70
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I did it!

Thanks for the great DIY on this replacement. I was able to replace the water pump and ac belt components in about 2.5 hours. The hose clamp pliers(cable type) probably saved 30 minutes of extreme frustration.

I may have missed one step somewhere in the draining process because, after draining the radiator, I pulled the rear small hose from the water pump and made one hell of a mess.

This was much easier than I had anticipated, and would highly recommend that if one must replace the water pum, replace the AC idler, belt and tensioner at the same time. Those components are easily accessed with the pump out of the car.
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:40 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ds650heavy View Post
... The hose clamp pliers(cable type) probably saved 30 minutes of extreme frustration.
Yes, the hose clamp pliers are a serious life saver/ One of the best and most used tools that I have bought for this car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ds650heavy View Post
I may have missed one step somewhere in the draining process because, after draining the radiator, I pulled the rear small hose from the water pump and made one hell of a mess.
Some spillage may occur but it should be minimal if you have drained all the fluid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ds650heavy View Post
This was much easier than I had anticipated, and would highly recommend that if one must replace the water pum, replace the AC idler, belt and tensioner at the same time. Those components are easily accessed with the pump out of the car.
Yes, they are easier to get to then but I wouldn't change them unless necessary. Thanks for chiming in with your experience.
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:43 PM   #72
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AJ, thank you tons for this write up. My pump started leaking recently, and now I know what I am doing this weekend.
I wasn't sure if I wanted to tackle it or not, but after reading your write-up, I feel confident in doing so. You Da Man!
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All Corvettes are really Blue. ~"Active Handling is designed to use existing traction to assist the driver. But cannot overcome the laws of physics". NOW they tell me!!!
Old 03-20-2014, 07:44 PM   #73
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No problem Mark, it's an easy repair.
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:23 PM   #74
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Thank You again! I'll start gathering things up tomorrow
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All Corvettes are really Blue. ~"Active Handling is designed to use existing traction to assist the driver. But cannot overcome the laws of physics". NOW they tell me!!!
Old 04-10-2014, 08:41 PM   #75
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I started changing my water pump today. The only hitches I found was cleaning the GM glue off the block and finding the bolt that I dropped. I must have spent two hours looking in every little nook and cranny and still didn't find it. So it's off to the dealer for a new bolt tomorrow morning. I found that keeping the bolts in the holes while trying to fit the pump up to the block was the hard part. That's also how I dropped the bolt. It fell out of the water pump bolt hole into the abyss. I finally put a drop of gasket seal under the head of the bolts. That held the bolts in place long enough for me to get a few threads started and then tighten them up. I'm still wondering where that bolt ended up.


This was a good write up. It really helped me out a lot.
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