Dual climate control system failure - Page 3 - Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums
 
 
Go Back   Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums > C5 Corvette Forums > C5 Corvette - General Discussion
Register Forums Garage Garage Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance Advertise

Notices

C5 Corvette - General Discussion General | Technical | Performance | Aftermarket | Discussions

Other sections:
Corvettes Classifieds
Corvette Detailing & Car Care
Corvette Audio/Video/Radar
General Automotive/Shop/Tools
Corvette Performance Driving/Racing

Shops/Tuners
Custom Image Corvettes
A&A Corvette
Corvette tuner

Interior
Corvette aftermarket products

Insurance



Parts & Products
Race Ramps
Edelbrock
ATI/Procharger
Corvetteguys.com
Melrose Motorsports
Parts Taxi
Airaid
Pfadt Racing
Madvette Motorsports
Hi-tech Custom Concepts
Corvette Garage
Corvette Parts and Accessories
Corvette Car Care Products
Corvette HID

Tracks/Schools
Bob Bondurant School of High Performance Driving
Corvette driving school

Wheels/Tires
Cray Wheels

Services
BADWERKS.com
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 09-25-2012, 09:16 PM   #31
Junkman2008
DC Crew
 
Junkman2008's Avatar
 
Posts: 30,448
Member #71977
Member since: Apr 2008
Location: Louisville, KY

My Corvette(s)
2001 Navy Blue Metallic Coupe

Thanks: 281
Thanked 883 Times in 703 Posts
Ah yes... the "Just Another Night" thread. I learned how to completely disassemble the motor in that thread. Funny thing is, that thread started out as the same AC problem you're having. I went through all the headache of removing the actuator and there was nothing wrong with it. I wish that someone could have told me what I told you. That would have saved me some unnecessary headache. My refrigerant was low because the compressor was on the way out.

After doing a evacuation and recovery, the compressor puked green dye all over itself and that is how I found out where my leak was. I replaced the compressor, orifice and dryer for $206. The dealer wanted $1400 to do the job and that price only included the compressor.

After the amount of reading and research that I did with the AC, I know this system like my Johnson.
Junkman2008 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
The Following User Says Thank You to Junkman2008 For This Useful Post:
ALZ (08-19-2015)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-25-2012, 09:54 PM   #32
ScumOne
DC Crew
 
Posts: 195
Member #119539
Member since: Aug 2012
Location: Whittier, CA USA

My Corvette(s)
1999 C5 4spd auto

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
I'd love to get off that cheap with this, but I won't be doing the repair work. I gave up wrenching 30 years ago after putting a 402 BB in where my Pontiac OHC 6 was in my 69 Firebird. Trust me when I say a ported & flowed 402 Chevy BB was perfect for a car that had a 160 mph speedometer.

But no creature comforts. It had a Muncie 4 speed M22 rock crusher, 456 HP on the dyno and 3.73 rear gears got me to 145 mph before the Texas law became interested (I outran them).

Now I try to be more, shall we say, invisible. Which is why I didn't get Torch Red, Yellow, White, Le Mans Blue or Black for my paint color.

Pewter works fine for me.

And since the business registered the car...it can pay for the repairs, too...

I'll be fine in the 300C till the weather turns or the A/C gets fixed in the Vette.

I'll update this thread next week after Rick @ Whittier Auto Electric gets a look at it. He's been extremely reasonable and proficient up to this point with the Camaro, and the Ford Explorer that had some electrical issues.

Thanks for the help, tomorrow I start looking for an LS1 truck starter.
ScumOne is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-02-2012, 06:49 PM   #33
ScumOne
DC Crew
 
Posts: 195
Member #119539
Member since: Aug 2012
Location: Whittier, CA USA

My Corvette(s)
1999 C5 4spd auto

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
UPDATE 10/2/12: Ok, the C5 got diagnosed by my real A/C guy (Rick @ Whittier Auto Electric) and here's what he found.

1) Air in the system. Needed to be evacuated and recharged.
2) The Saturday mechanic "overfilled" the 134 by 12 oz. That got reduced down to normal levels.
3) Rick hooked his computer up to command the actuator door to close off the heated air, which it did, but it kept saying it was open for cold air, which it wasn't. More testing (and listening) produced a faint click/whirring sound, so the only thing left is the left actuator has broken gears in it, a common failure.

The good news is Rick got the driver's side door closed off enough that I'm not driving in a sauna and the passenger side vents are blowing cold enough for me to drive the car if I want by angling the vents towards me.

The bad news is that he's so backed up with other work (including my 84 Camaro A/C, etc) that he can't properly fix it for another 2 weeks.

So JM, you were partially right, the system had goofy levels and air in it, the evac and recharge took care of that, but there's still a bad actuator gear/etc so that's gotta get replaced and the instrument cluster, etc has to come out to do it on a 99.

Could have been worse...no leaks in the A/C system, no compressor or other valve damage. Rick figures around $5-600 to do the whole thing.

At least I can drive it so I'm good to go until it can get fixed properly. Thanks again for everyone's help and advice, I appreciate it very much.

Jim
ScumOne is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 10-02-2012, 09:50 PM   #34
Junkman2008
DC Crew
 
Junkman2008's Avatar
 
Posts: 30,448
Member #71977
Member since: Apr 2008
Location: Louisville, KY

My Corvette(s)
2001 Navy Blue Metallic Coupe

Thanks: 281
Thanked 883 Times in 703 Posts
The main thing that you should understand here is that had you replaced the HVAC unit and both actuators as you wanted, your problem would have still existed because of the improper amount of R-134a. That's why proper trouble-shooting is do important. Not only do you save money, you actually locate the problem.

The actuator that is not working correctly could just be out of calibration. The failure does not mean that the big gear is broken. Being out of calibration is the most common failure, not the broken gear. That would be the second most common failure.

I could always post the instructions here and you could do the job yourself. You wouldn't even loose any refrigerant. If you were close to me, you could come over and we'd both knock it off for a lot less than $600. This is why I now do all my own repairs.
Junkman2008 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
Old 10-02-2012, 11:21 PM   #35
ScumOne
DC Crew
 
Posts: 195
Member #119539
Member since: Aug 2012
Location: Whittier, CA USA

My Corvette(s)
1999 C5 4spd auto

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Ok, your points are well taken JM, but they're not the only valid points in the grand scheme of things.

Sure I could replace one component at a time, but as you know from being a computer consultant, generally systems take a dump together...such as memory, hard drives, controllers, and usually the operating system or applications.

You can do a piecemeal fix of one bad thing at a time as it happens, or just replace the entire system components to make sure you're good to go for awhile. Had I opted to replace both actuators/control head/etc. it would only have been prudent to do the evac and recovery of the 134 as well. That was done first on the advice of Rick and you, but we're still at the actuator replacement now.

I haven't ruled out replacing the HVAC controller because the newer ones also have new calibration limits to keep the actuators from getting out of calibration, and that would also fix the low level LED brightness, too. But this is all conjecture at this point. The reality is that there could still be more stuff that needs to be fixed, and if Rick tells me it would be wise (while it's all apart and easy to deal with) to just change out the other actuator and the HVAC to make sure I'm good to go for 5-6 years, I'm going to give that some serious consideration. I'm currently experiencing a 200% increase in business since last year, and waking up at 4 am to start work and turning off the phones at 9pm so I can get to sleep has been the norm for over two months now. I just don't have the time, skills or inclination to rip my instrument cluster of my Vette out to fix this myself, although 30 years ago I would have been the first to get a bean burrito from Taco Bell and dive in, trust me!

But the 134 levels were one thing, it just isn't the only thing. I'll know for sure the extent of the repair in a couple of weeks and report back. Right now it's time for some serious sleep.

And just for clarity...don't you have some hot babe ready to show up any minute anyway? Some of us are living vicariously through your "garage girl" pics since we're married!
ScumOne is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-03-2012, 02:58 AM   #36
Junkman2008
DC Crew
 
Junkman2008's Avatar
 
Posts: 30,448
Member #71977
Member since: Apr 2008
Location: Louisville, KY

My Corvette(s)
2001 Navy Blue Metallic Coupe

Thanks: 281
Thanked 883 Times in 703 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScumOne View Post
You can do a piecemeal fix of one bad thing at a time as it happens, or just replace the entire system components to make sure you're good to go for awhile. Had I opted to replace both actuators/control head/etc. it would only have been prudent to do the evac and recovery of the 134 as well. That was done first on the advice of Rick and you, but we're still at the actuator replacement now.
Screeeeeeeech! Put on those brakes buster!

A couple of things that I need to correct with your understanding of how the system works. Replacing the actuators or the HVAC head unit does not require the evacuation and recovery of the R-134a. That's an added expense of close to $100 or more if you can't find a mom and pop shop with a ACR2000 machine or equivalent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScumOne View Post
I haven't ruled out replacing the HVAC controller because the newer ones also have new calibration limits to keep the actuators from getting out of calibration, and that would also fix the low level LED brightness, too.
The highlighted part is incorrect! Here's the technical description of how the actuators work. Try not and fall asleep, it's kind boring and technical.

The air temperature actuators are a 5 wire bi-directional electric motor that incorporates a feedback potentiometer. Ignition 3 voltage, low reference, control, 5-volt reference and position signal circuits enable the actuator to operate. The control circuit uses either a 0, 2.5 or 5-volt signal to command the actuator movement. When the actuator is at rest, the control circuit value is 2.5 volts. A 0 or 5-volt control signal commands the actuator movement in opposite directions. When the actuator shaft rotates, the potentiometer's adjustable contact changes the door position signal between 0-5 volts.

The HVAC control module uses a range of 0-255 counts to index the actuator position. The door position signal voltage is converted to a 0-255 count range. When the module sets a commanded, or targeted, value, the control signal is changed to either 0 or 5 volts depending upon the direction that the actuator needs to rotate to reach the commanded value. As the actuator shaft rotates the changing position signal is sent to the module. Once the position signal and the commanded value are the same, the module changes the control signal to 2.5 volts.


Now here's the Layman's description. The only thing that the HVAC unit does concerning the movement of the actuators is command them to move or stop. The HVAC unit awaits communication from the actuator itself once a requested position is reached. At that point, the HVAC will send a stop command. If the actuator never sends that command, it will continue to move and get out of range. The HVAC will do nothing to stop it. So there is no 'calibration limits' in the dual climate control units when compared to the manual version. Here's how the manual HVAC unit works.

The air temperature actuator is a 3-wire bi-directional electric motor. Ignition 3 voltage, ground and control circuits enable the actuator to operate. The control circuit uses a 0-12 volt linear-ramped signal to command the actuator movement. The 0 and 12 volt control values represent the opposite limits of the actuator range of motion. The values in between 0 and 12 volts correspond to the positions between the limits.

When the HVAC control module sets a commanded, or targeted, value, the control signal is set to a value between 0-12 volts. The actuator shaft rotates until the commanded position is reached. The module will maintain the control value until a new commanded value is needed.


That's totally different from the dual climate control operation. It's a manual operation instead of an electronic one. What stops the newer actuators (found in the 2001-2004 models) from getting out of range is the stop bumps that I posted about earlier in this thread.

Now as for the dim display issue. Replacing your HVAC unit is only going to fix this for a little while because the problem is going to return. The issue has to do with 'cold solder' during the manufacturing process of the HVAC internal circuit board. This has been well documented and I put up a post that shows how to permanently fix this issue. Click here for that post. With either unit, resoldering the resistors on either unit will bring the display back to full brightness. There is one catch though.

Sometimes, fixing the display will cause some of the LED's on the HVAC to go out. Thus, you should also replace all of the LED's when you do the dim display fix at the same time. Once you do this, your unit will light up like a Christmas tree. Cost? About $1.05 for the LED's.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ScumOne View Post
But this is all conjecture at this point. The reality is that there could still be more stuff that needs to be fixed, and if Rick tells me it would be wise (while it's all apart and easy to deal with) to just change out the other actuator and the HVAC to make sure I'm good to go for 5-6 years, I'm going to give that some serious consideration.
Keep in mind that to get to the passenger's side actuator, the entire dash pad has to be removed. That's a lot more work than doing just the driver's side.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScumOne View Post
And just for clarity...don't you have some hot babe ready to show up any minute anyway? Some of us are living vicariously through your "garage girl" pics since we're married!
If I posted what I did with some ladies in my garage this week, I'd have to ban myself! But hey, I found at least one picture that I can post!


Last edited by Junkman2008; 11-04-2014 at 01:32 AM.
Junkman2008 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
Old 10-03-2012, 05:53 PM   #37
ScumOne
DC Crew
 
Posts: 195
Member #119539
Member since: Aug 2012
Location: Whittier, CA USA

My Corvette(s)
1999 C5 4spd auto

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
If I posted what I did with some ladies in my garage this week, I'd have to ban myself! But hey, I found at least one picture that I can post!

Ok, now this is what I'm talking about...great set of...legs.

As for the rest of it...yeah, I hear you, but with the three extra codes he was getting, intermittently (no I didn't write down all the #'s , sorry it was 104 degrees in his shop), it's now gone beyond just saying "the actuator is the only problem".

I realize you would rip it apart, and replace exactly what was wrong and no more. That's cool, but I'm not that guy. I've seen too many fixes (auto/computer/work/etc) where you fix one thing and then the next weak link in the system rears it's ugly head to screw with you. Don't try and tell me you haven't seen that one, I'm sure you have.

I'm not going to pay the man to yank it apart and have any "iffy" components left. If it does anything remotely goofy while he's in there (despite the guaranteed work), I'll have him replace anything that doesn't act 100% after the actuator is swapped. Sorry JM, I just don't have the time (working 15 hours per day right now) to play "detective" and I'd really rather just "get it done" than screw around with it.

If I were you, had extra garage space, ladies coming by to distract me, and unlimited time to work on it, sure, I'd do it myself. I just don't.

Besides...didn't your C5 sit for almost a year while you went from one fix to another? Kudos to you for getting it done, and mucho respect, but I just don't have the time to do that.

So it's going to sit for another couple of weeks (unless the temp goes below 85 degrees out here) until it can go back in the shop. I went out for a drive today to do some business and 93 degrees isn't what I call...stimulating.

The legs you put a picture up above on the other hand...are.
ScumOne is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-03-2012, 06:57 PM   #38
Junkman2008
DC Crew
 
Junkman2008's Avatar
 
Posts: 30,448
Member #71977
Member since: Apr 2008
Location: Louisville, KY

My Corvette(s)
2001 Navy Blue Metallic Coupe

Thanks: 281
Thanked 883 Times in 703 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScumOne View Post
I realize you would rip it apart, and replace exactly what was wrong and no more. That's cool, but I'm not that guy. I've seen too many fixes (auto/computer/work/etc) where you fix one thing and then the next weak link in the system rears it's ugly head to screw with you. Don't try and tell me you haven't seen that one, I'm sure you have.
No. I'm with you 100% there. But there's a difference between what makes sense and then overkill. I replaced every seal and gasket when I did my cylinder head gaskets. I replaced the oil temperature sensor, spark plugs and just about every bolt that I removed. Now all that wasn't necessary but like you said, I may as well do it since I had it all apart. Now pulling the engine and doing a complete overhaul would have been overkill with engine that only had 134,000 miles on it. Especially one designed to do 300,000 miles from the factory.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScumOne View Post
Besides...didn't your C5 sit for almost a year while you went from one fix to another? Kudos to you for getting it done, and mucho respect, but I just don't have the time to do that.


No, that's not why it sat that long. It sat that long because I am too lazy to spend the time necessary to fix something in one day. I get easily distracted (see legs above), and my attention span is about as long as a grasshopper. Add to that, I didn't have a clue how to do the job so I had to read about a thousand post, ask a million questions, buy a hundred tools and read the directions 20 times before I could perform each step. But now that I've done it once and took the time to learn as I went? I could do that job in 2 days now.

Of course, as long as those legs stayed out of my garage.


Last edited by Junkman2008; 11-04-2014 at 01:33 AM.
Junkman2008 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
Old 08-26-2014, 08:46 AM   #39
dustin55b
Registered User
 
Posts: 1
Member #146282
Member since: Aug 2014

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bo446h,bo361h, bo363h, bo365h, bo367h is what I had. I reset and now I still have all of them but the bo447h. Help please? Sometimes it blows, sometimes it doesn't. But when it does it blows room temperature. A/c compressor stays on when I hit the a/c button so its not out of freon. Any ideas?
dustin55b is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-04-2014, 01:34 AM   #40
Junkman2008
DC Crew
 
Junkman2008's Avatar
 
Posts: 30,448
Member #71977
Member since: Apr 2008
Location: Louisville, KY

My Corvette(s)
2001 Navy Blue Metallic Coupe

Thanks: 281
Thanked 883 Times in 703 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dustin55b View Post
Bo446h,bo361h, bo363h, bo365h, bo367h is what I had. I reset and now I still have all of them but the bo447h. Help please? Sometimes it blows, sometimes it doesn't. But when it does it blows room temperature. A/c compressor stays on when I hit the a/c button so its not out of freon. Any ideas?
You still having issues?
Junkman2008 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
Old 01-25-2015, 08:59 PM   #41
Ron222
DC Crew
 
Posts: 2
Member #151497
Member since: Jan 2015
Location: DeBary, Fl

My Corvette(s)
C5 - Vert

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hey Junkman, I'm new to this site but I came across you post about re-calibrating Actuators which is exactly was I was looking for I have 2 questions though, as simple as they may sound, You state to turn off the ignition in step 1. My question is do I leave the key in the ignition turned to the on position or remove the key completely? Once that is completed I need to just remove fuse #27 from the floor panel fuse box for at least 60 seconds re install the fuse and start the car? Like I said these a really simple stupid questions but I want to make sure I do it correctly. Thank you in advance for your help. BTW 2004, C5 and I'm not experiencing the display dimming. Thanks again.
Ron

Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
You are having two common issues. First, post your codes. Then, let's address the dim display, because you must be able to see it in order to fix one of you other issues.

To fix the dim display, there are a bank of 8 resistors that you will need to reflow the solder on. Check out this recent thread for a DIY. Once you get the display working again, you need to tell us if your outside temperature reading is correctly. If not, your outside temperature T-stat is bad. This will cause the problem you are having where the auto mode button not working.

Gordon told you how to do a reset of the actuators, although I want to be a tad bit more clear. Here are the instructions from the service manual.

Re-Calibrating Actuators
Use the following steps to perform the calibration update:

1. Turn OFF the ignition.
2. Remove the battery positive voltage circuit fuse of the HVAC Control Module (fuse #27).

Important
The module memory will not clear if the battery positive voltage circuit fuse is installed in less than 60 seconds.



3. Wait 60 seconds.
4. Install the fuse.

Come back here when the display is working and we'll continue.
Ron222 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-25-2015, 10:59 PM   #42
Junkman2008
DC Crew
 
Junkman2008's Avatar
 
Posts: 30,448
Member #71977
Member since: Apr 2008
Location: Louisville, KY

My Corvette(s)
2001 Navy Blue Metallic Coupe

Thanks: 281
Thanked 883 Times in 703 Posts
You're losing me on understanding the instructions. Turn the engine OFF means OFF, not on, not accessory, OFF. There is only one OFF position. Then, follow the rest of the instructions. It really is that simple, no tricks or gimmicks, trust me.

Welcome to the forum.
Junkman2008 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
Old 01-26-2015, 05:24 PM   #43
Ron222
DC Crew
 
Posts: 2
Member #151497
Member since: Jan 2015
Location: DeBary, Fl

My Corvette(s)
C5 - Vert

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
You're losing me on understanding the instructions. Turn the engine OFF means OFF, not on, not accessory, OFF. There is only one OFF position. Then, follow the rest of the instructions. It really is that simple, no tricks or gimmicks, trust me.

Welcome to the forum.
Sorry I bothered you... didn't mean to piss you off! I confused your post with the previous one from RT Gordon who stated to put the key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position but not to start etc. etc.
Ron222 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-27-2015, 04:22 AM   #44
Junkman2008
DC Crew
 
Junkman2008's Avatar
 
Posts: 30,448
Member #71977
Member since: Apr 2008
Location: Louisville, KY

My Corvette(s)
2001 Navy Blue Metallic Coupe

Thanks: 281
Thanked 883 Times in 703 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron222 View Post
Sorry I bothered you... didn't mean to piss you off! I confused your post with the previous one from RT Gordon who stated to put the key in the ignition and turn it to the ON position but not to start etc. etc.
These forums are lousy when it comes to getting emotions across, as I can see by your response. You didn't piss me off. I don't know why you think that but that's not the case. When I get pissed, I will appear before you looking like...



So there.... everything is cool.
Junkman2008 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
Old 01-27-2015, 09:21 AM   #45
gmjunkie
DC Crew
 
gmjunkie's Avatar
 
Posts: 631
Member #33628
Member since: Apr 2005
Location: Old Fort NC/Vero Beach Fl/Lewistown MO

My Corvette(s)
78 L82 Cp.,03 Z51 6Sp. Cp.

Thanks: 150
Thanked 42 Times in 35 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
No. I'm with you 100% there. But there's a difference between what makes sense and then overkill. I replaced every seal and gasket when I did my cylinder head gaskets. I replaced the oil temperature sensor, spark plugs and just about every bolt that I removed. Now all that wasn't necessary but like you said, I may as well do it since I had it all apart. Now pulling the engine and doing a complete overhaul would have been overkill with engine that only had 134,000 miles on it. Especially one designed to do 300,000 miles from the factory.





No, that's not why it sat that long. It sat that long because I am too lazy to spend the time necessary to fix something in one day. I get easily distracted (see legs above), and my attention span is about as long as a grasshopper. Add to that, I didn't have a clue how to do the job so I had to read about a thousand post, ask a million questions, buy a hundred tools and read the directions 20 times before I could perform each step. But now that I've done it once and took the time to learn as I went? I could do that job in 2 days now.

Of course, as long as those legs stayed out of my garage.

I did everything on my AC you did and then some in less than 1 day,But those legs, I wouldn't be done with them for at least a month!
gmjunkie is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
junk!!"Let your plans be murky and confused in daylight, and when you move, fall like a wet turd." - Sonny Toefoo
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (12 CHARACTERS MAXIMUM), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
City / State / Country?
Where you live
What kind of Corvette(s) do you own?
This field is not required.
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:47 PM.




Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
2003-2011, DigitalCorvettes.com - All Rights Reserved