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Old 05-04-2015, 05:10 PM   #16
Richard454
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Questions-

Are you going w/ the coilovers on the rear?

Did you safety wire the hats?

Why didn't you go w/ the 14" on the front- it's only a like $100 more than the 13"s? Could probably find enough change under the seats to do that!!!

Richard
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:39 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard454 View Post
Questions-

Are you going w/ the coilovers on the rear?

Did you safety wire the hats?

Why didn't you go w/ the 14" on the front- it's only a like $100 more than the 13"s? Could probably find enough change under the seats to do that!!!

Richard
not at this point. i think the offset trailing arms are to clear the new rims. idk what size the fronts are. and the rotors are bolted down to the hats with red Loctite and torqued to 140 in/lb before the .032 dia. safety wire went on pairs of the bolts. obviously you have seen these style rotors before. tomorrow the clutch and transmission go back in. gotta take some careful measurements for shimming the new hydraulic clutch slave.
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:28 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autowiz View Post
not at this point. i think the offset trailing arms are to clear the new rims. idk what size the fronts are. and the rotors are bolted down to the hats with red Loctite and torqued to 140 in/lb before the .032 dia. safety wire went on pairs of the bolts. obviously you have seen these style rotors before. tomorrow the clutch and transmission go back in. gotta take some careful measurements for shimming the new hydraulic clutch slave.
I was just gonna say since you went w/ the new trailing arms w/ the johnny joints- the coilover set up is sort of a no branier as it's only $500-600 more. Plus they are really easy to install.
I went w/ Vansteels's front and rear.

As far as the brakes- The 14"- made sense to me for a little over a hundred bucks to get the extra rotor surface area. Those you have on the front are 13"s.

A helpful hint when doing the brake lines up front- get a 45 AN fitting and it will put the brake line where you need them- well worth the $30!!!

DSCN3920_zps92fb8c93 by richardhayes454, on Flickr




You can see w/ the AN-3 45 lines up great w/ the factory tab plus the brake line moves where you want it lock to lock w/ no binding-
DSCN5119 by richardhayes454, on Flickr


Shim for the clutch- been there done that- I had an extra input shaft mount that I milled down for my shim.





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Old 05-05-2015, 05:40 PM   #19
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nice pics. we take our measurements a little differently. we measure from the back of the bell to the assembled clutch. i just setup the dual friction centerforce today so here's some pics...




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Old 05-05-2015, 06:33 PM   #20
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Thanks- I measured that as well...My set up is just a little different. A BMW V12 flywheel cut- drilled and pinned for a Chevy clutch...The Bellhousing is from a BMW Auto box milled down and " aluminum plate welded to it for a Chevy bolt pattern...







Test fit w/ Richmond 6 speed-



Ended up going w/ a TKO 500

DSCN4073 by richardhayes454, on Flickr
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Old 05-07-2015, 07:25 PM   #21
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today i had to take apart the dash. the fast efi kit comes with a distributor and it does not have a tach drive. so i need to convert his tach from cable to electric.






and while i had the gauge out, i also have a stereo to install and i noticed this problem with the aftermarket air conditioning system...



can you see the huge gap between the air box and the defrost vent? or how the entire box is leaning? or how whoever installed this just slapped a few pieces of duct tape over the front of it? i made a few very crude and simple brackets and took a few rivets and some glue and some spit, and now this a/c will work properly...


still got some work to do on that rat's nest back there.
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:51 PM   #22
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have to mount a wideband o2 sensor. and i would just like to point out that stainless pipe is my fav. to work with...



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Old 05-09-2015, 02:21 PM   #23
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Old 05-11-2015, 09:47 PM   #24
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Got the rear suspension and diff back in the car and together and go to test fit the wheels and they hit on both the fiberglass leaf spring and the sway bar. so now we take a short pause while we wait for a sharkbite kit.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:47 PM   #25
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finally got the next truckload of parts for this beast. sharkbite kit came front & rear, got van steel rear sway bar for offset trailing arms, got the new master cylinder, and i think i have everything i need to complete this job. got a little bit of backtracking to get the sharkbite kit in and for the offset trailing arms in the back, parts have to be welded for the kit to work...








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Old 05-27-2015, 11:25 PM   #26
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Nice picture shot of the Sharkbite main mounting bracket From underside Autowiz.
Thanks.
I know exact what to do & improve strength wise for Matt.
Add Beaming and Torsional Stiffness.

Your C5 I would like to see 210-290 psi main line pressure WOT.
It can vary widely by what the builder did exact.
How much time they put into Blueprinting the oil pump & eliminating oil leakoff points internal.
Working down to .0001" tolerance or 1/10,000 ths of an inch blueprint 4L60E & 700R4 front pumps.
Key is finding a MINT CORE.
NEVER KNOW EXACT WHAT QUALITY THE CORE WAS TO BEGIN WITH UNLESS YOU BUILD IT YOURSELF OR ITS DONE LIVE ON DC HERE.

BR
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Old 05-27-2015, 11:51 PM   #27
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Its a Variable Displacement Front pump on your 4L60E Autowiz.
It takes me 8-10 hours to Blueprint the pump alone to perfection .

If you can shut off the PWM Signal to the Line Pressure control solenoid ypu hsve 100% obtainable line pressure.
Do it only driving and in 3Rd or 4th gear. Not between upshifts.
If set for extreme of 450-500psi by builder parts will break.
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Old 05-28-2015, 03:49 PM   #28
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oh c'mon man 500psi of line pressure at shift sounds like a firm no slip shift to me.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:01 PM   #29
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Quote:
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oh c'mon man 500psi of line pressure at shift sounds like a firm no slip shift to me.
Some builders love super high line pressure in Automatic transmissions .
210-290 Psi more than enough in 700R4 & 4L60E trans.
Can calibrate the valvebody then for near stock light throttle shifts.
WOT Simulate Race Car Turbo 400 Reverse valvebody shifts super hard..
What I did with C4 700 R4.
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:46 PM   #30
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700r4 was the best transmission choice for a c4, i think. the zf 6 speeds are noisy without the dual mass flywheel and the 4+3 od units love to fail. automatic is also easier for me to negotiate with my 13w shoes in the cramped footwell of a c4.
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