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Old 06-10-2014, 04:44 PM   #31
teamo
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Okay the bumper cover nuts look better than I thought. I was able to access a couple of them by just raising up the headlights about half way and getting a small socket in there. I'll have to check the A.I.M. and see how many of them there are. There is one that looks like it is going to give me some trouble. Looks like a fiberglass repair was done around the right side marker lights and one of the bolt heads may be buried behind the repair. Maybe a very thin cut off wheel on a dremel tool will do it if I can sneak the tool in there.
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Old 06-11-2014, 02:13 PM   #32
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Here are a few pictures of the bumper cover that I finished removing last night. The pictures are a little dark so it might be hard to make out. It was tough getting up behind the cover and finding all of the small nuts that hold it on. I had to use several sockets and also a ratchet u joint to get to a few. I broke a few of them but I knew that would happen with all of the rust. Going to fix everything the right way when I put it all back together. There was some major Bubba work that I found. Front grilles and parking lamp on one side were bolted on with what looks like deck screws. What else do I have to remove to start the body lift. The thread that is in the tech section shows a lot of the steps but that is for an earlier car with steel bumpers. So far I have removed the fiberglass cover in the front and the two frame extensions that bolt to either side. Is that All I need to remover?
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Old 06-12-2014, 05:00 PM   #33
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Here is a picture of the frame horn extension. There is one on each side. I disconnected four bolts from the bottom of the vacuum reservoir to the radiator core support. Hard for me to figure out what might be connected from the body to the frame on the front because there are so many parts to the front bumper. Is there anything that I am missing?
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Old 06-12-2014, 06:53 PM   #34
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All you're missing is several swear words and cold beer. Good to go!
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Old 06-13-2014, 04:58 PM   #35
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Yeah the swear words have already been coming pretty good with all of the rusted fasteners and the slipped wrenches. Plenty of groans from back and neck aches too. Thanks for the help. I am going to get this lift going in a few days when I have some spare time. I'll post back with pictures when I get it started.
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:54 PM   #36
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I would be of more help with the bumper attachments if you were working on an earlier C3, but I'm not as familiar with the plastic bumper cars...
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:07 PM   #37
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I started the body lift today. It lifted no problem. There was some slight groaning sounds as it released but no major cracking sounds or anything like that. Had to drop it back down and take apart the parking brake cable. I thought that there would be enough slack but no go. I cut a piece of 2x8 wood and used that to support the rocker channel and then I used a bottle jack to lift the wood. The only problem is that I have to figure out what to use to keep the body supported so that I can remove the 2x8 to get access to the frame from the side of the car instead of trying to work underneath. I was going to slide some short 4x4's in between the frame and the body but I can't fit them in from underneath. I don't want to go too high with the body because the mounts on the other side are loose and not yet removed. Any suggestions?
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:51 PM   #38
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So far I haven't seen a shim anywhere on the body mounts. The #4 on the right side has none and the #1 on the same side also doesn't look like it has any. As soon as I get access to the #2 and #3 I'll see if there are any shims at all. I tend to believe that this things has been off the frame in the past and the dimwit who did the work figured that a shim was a waste of time or something. How do I know how many shims to use if there are none to replicate?
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Old 06-24-2014, 09:30 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamo View Post
So far I haven't seen a shim anywhere on the body mounts. The #4 on the right side has none and the #1 on the same side also doesn't look like it has any. As soon as I get access to the #2 and #3 I'll see if there are any shims at all. I tend to believe that this things has been off the frame in the past and the dimwit who did the work figured that a shim was a waste of time or something. How do I know how many shims to use if there are none to replicate?
I am no expert by no means. I only did my own frame off on my '74. I had no rust on the frame that had to be fixed, but both rear mounts on the body had to be replaced. On my car some of the shims had turned almost to dust so I almost had to start from scratch like you are.

The shims are for setting up the gaps between the doors and rear quarter panels, the doors and front fenders, and hood gap at winsheild hood surround.

Set your body down and look at your gaps

REAR DOOR GAP:
If your rear door gap is tight at the top and big at the bottom, you need shims at the rear of your door (rear bird cage)

If your door gap is big at the top and tight at the bottom you need shims at the rear mount.

FRONT DOOR GAP:

If the gap is big at the top and tight at the bottom you need shim the mount at the radiator core support
If the gap is tight at the top and big at the bottom then you need shims at the front birdcage mount (front door gap)

Now if you added shims at the front door gap you might have to add the same amount of shimes at the rear cage mount (rear door gap) and rear mount to keep the rear door gap even. This is wear you have to be patent and it will turn out.

Now all you have to do is repeat this on the other side. remember no 2 Corvettes are the same, so some mounts will need no shims and one might need 5, thats how mine was.

Hope this helps

Last edited by walleyfisher; 06-24-2014 at 12:46 PM.
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:38 PM   #40
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Good info. I still have to order the body mount cushions and bolts. Looks like it will take some doing to get it just right.
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Old 11-11-2014, 04:19 PM   #41
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Making some good progress these past few weeks with the good weather that we have been having. I have been using the por 15 on the frame on one side that is raised up and also the cross members. I took all of the heavy rust off of the gas tank protector shell and gave it two coats of por 15 today. Time to start putting in the fuel line and the fuel return line. After that I can put on the body mount cushions and drop the body down. After that it is on to other side for more cleaning and painting fame rails, installing the new brake lines, and installing the fuel vapor return lineAttachment 11994. Winter is on the way so I am going to have to take some time to insulate the garage so that I can keep working right through until spring comes.
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Old 11-12-2014, 03:44 PM   #42
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Sounds and looks real good Teamo, dont worry too much on the shims as Walley fishers post is good info to follow ,i did the same with mine(77) as walley did with his .

You,ll be surprised just how easy it is
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Old 11-16-2014, 12:37 AM   #43
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I don't post very often but in this case I need to thank you all for all of the information you've provided in this thread.

I'm going to be replacing mounts in the near future myself and this thread is just full of useful info to get the job done correctly.

Thanks to teamo for starting this thread and props to everyone else who contributed.
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:44 AM   #44
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Following closely as well. Thanks walley, I copied and pasted the shim info. Keep us posted teamo and pics please! I hope to have the body back on the frame in the next week or so. Will have photos on my build thread.
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Old 04-18-2015, 08:16 PM   #45
teamo
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I am back at it now that the weather is good. I haven't done any work since the beginning of winter when it got too cold. I had planned on insulating the garage and continuing my work on the car through the winter but my Brother who gave me this car got very sick. We lost him at the end of December and I wasn't sure I would ever feel like working on it again. I was motivated by sharing my progress with him and I would send him updated pictures every time I repaired something or got a new part. Well I am going to carry on because he gave me the car to restore and enjoy I know he would not want me to quit. So I started in this week and picked up where I left off. The body is still up on the right side and I just finished snaking in the new fuel lines on that side. It was tough to fish them up over the rear kick up area but I got it done. They are all clipped in with new clips and bolts. I had to remove the transmission cross member to feed the lines over the top of it. Can't see any other way to get them through with the factory reproduced bends in the lines. The manual trans guys don't have the luxury of removing the cross member so that is a challenge that I don't have to face. last fall I painted the right half of the frame with por 15. The trans cross member was very greasy and I thought that I had cleaned it well enough but I guess not. The por came right off so I am going to give it a good cleaning while it is out of the car and try again. I found a few of the clips that hold the positive battery cable inside of the trans tunnel had lost their nuts. Does anyone know what size these nuts are? I tried a 1/4 20 but it didn't fit. Next step is to put the new body mount cushions in on the right side and lower the body down. After that I will jack up the left side and remove the brake/vapor lines and paint the frame on that side. Click image for larger version

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