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raidmagic · 11-23-2011, 05:20 PM

I'm sorry I haven't been following your whole build but I had to slot the holes on my c beam for things to line up right with my 700r4

[email protected] · 11-23-2011, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wildcatlock

Stupid question but have you tried to get the holes to line up? Reason I ask is I thought I had to do the same as you when I replaced all bushings. Ended up being horizontal missalignment ( trans slightly down and front of c beam slightly down ) yet still fit over trans and some fore and aft play in the bat wing mount locations. Once it was lined up and 1 bolt slid through everything was much tighter.

It's not misaligned. I was told i would have to modify the C-beam.This set up moves the tail shaft back a hair. I expected to have to do it, it's no surprise.

[email protected] · 11-23-2011, 07:53 PM

It's in!! Right now the Engine, transmission, C-beam, and rear end are mated and everything looks good. This for me is a mile stone. I need to install the drive shaft but I don't see this will be a problem at all. I only had to elongate the C-beam mounting holes .25 inches.

My goal for this week was to be at this point. This weekend i can finally start working on extending my wiring. I'll take some pictures Saturday we are out of town until then.

avengeusa · 11-24-2011, 07:03 AM

awesome! this is a good swap to do

[email protected] · 11-26-2011, 08:17 PM

Today I learned the C-beam and drive shaft have to be installed together.

I took the C-beam out to clean it up. I them put it back and could not install the drive shaft. So then I took the C-beam out and put in the drive shaft and could not install the C-beam. Finally i put the C-beam in place and moved it over until I had enough room to install the drive shaft then bolted the C-beam in place.
The exhaust lines up pretty good. It looks like the Left/drivers will need to be cut down a little. If I could get a hold off some 98 corvette exhaust the first couple of feet I will be in business.
The last picture is the cats I will be using. They will have to be cut down.

redmen031 · 11-29-2011, 09:20 AM

Hmm I didn't have to modify my C-Beam to make it fit.

Everything is looking great, keep up the good work. I was finally driving mine around the other day without a tune and it's a BLAST! Hurry up and finish it already

[email protected] · 11-29-2011, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redmen031

Hmm I didn't have to modify my C-Beam to make it fit.

Everything is looking great, keep up the good work. I was finally driving mine around the other day without a tune and it's a BLAST! Hurry up and finish it already

I think it's because I used the adater to put the 77R4 tail shaft on the 4L60E. I'm about to do my wirring..Any tips?

redmen031 · 11-29-2011, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [email protected]

I think it's because I used the adater to put the 77R4 tail shaft on the 4L60E. I'm about to do my wirring..Any tips?

I extended all the wires to my ECM so that I could mount it where I wanted. If I were doing it again I would probably just toss the harness in the car and hook everything I could up to the harness and then extend only the wires I need. I made about 160-180 splices all together. I'm sure there are DOZENS of those splices that are now worthless because I will be pulling the wires out that I am not using. Also, when splicing I recommend using adhesive lined shrink tubing which will ensure a water tight connection. I used 3/16" shrink tubing. See below link:

http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/products/shrink

Also, make a list of what needs to be done. Coolant sensor, fans, oil pressure, oil temp, map sensor, maf, tach, O2 sensors etc. Work on one item at a time until that item is finished. It's easy to get ahead of yourself and try to get everything working at once which only leads to alot of confusion. Stay focused, keep good notes and try not to get overwhelmed and you'll be just fine.

[email protected] · 11-29-2011, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redmen031

I extended all the wires to my ECM so that I could mount it where I wanted. If I were doing it again I would probably just toss the harness in the car and hook everything I could up to the harness and then extend only the wires I need. I made about 160-180 splices all together. I'm sure there are DOZENS of those splices that are now worthless because I will be pulling the wires out that I am not using. Also, when splicing I recommend using adhesive lined shrink tubing which will ensure a water tight connection. I used 3/16" shrink tubing. See below link:

http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/products/shrink

Also, make a list of what needs to be done. Coolant sensor, fans, oil pressure, oil temp, map sensor, maf, tach, O2 sensors etc. Work on one item at a time until that item is finished. It's easy to get ahead of yourself and try to get everything working at once which only leads to alot of confusion. Stay focused, keep good notes and try not to get overwhelmed and you'll be just fine.

Thanks

I already Deleted and depinned everything I wont be using. Did you connect the Coolant fan wires dirrectly to the LS1 PCM. Did your Speedo give you any trouble.
I have also read that the LS1 oil sender will not work with our dash but I have also read otherwise.

[email protected] · 12-04-2011, 04:11 PM

I have been working on the wiring most of the day. I mocked it up and to my surprise I only need to extend about 20 wires.

I the picture what is circled in red will reach. The bundle in yellow will not.
Ok, back to work

[email protected] · 12-04-2011, 07:35 PM

I'm almost done with the harness.Big props to the wife for letting me turn our workout room into the harness room for the week.I need to extend the wires that were to short and figure out what to do with the 12V commons. I picked up the PCM end of a late model truck harness so I can extend the 19 wires and only have one solder point and hopefully match the colors perfectly.

My mess

redmen031 · 12-04-2011, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by [email protected]

Thanks

I already Deleted and depinned everything I wont be using. Did you connect the Coolant fan wires dirrectly to the LS1 PCM. Did your Speedo give you any trouble.
I have also read that the LS1 oil sender will not work with our dash but I have also read otherwise.

I connected the PCM output wires directly to the existing (1984 vette) fan relay. This way the PCM would tell the fan when to go on and I still had the relay working.

Also nice job with the harness, it's looking good. Matching the colors of the wires is a great idea and will definitely help trouble shooting in the future.

Also, do you plan to get your vette tuned after the swap is complete?

[email protected] · 12-04-2011, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redmen031

I connected the PCM output wires directly to the existing (1984 vette) fan relay. This way the PCM would tell the fan when to go on and I still had the relay working.

Also nice job with the harness, it's looking good. Matching the colors of the wires is a great idea and will definitely help trouble shooting in the future.

Also, do you plan to get your vette tuned after the swap is complete?

Thnaks for the info.. I am going to get it tuned the difference in the Stall a rear gear alone warrant a retune. I also deleted the rear O2s.

[email protected] · 12-10-2011, 10:17 AM

I found an awesome site C4 Vette wiring diagrams

https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/d...agrams19901991

And posted by LS1MCSS .. a very valuable resource

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...chematics.html

[email protected] · 12-10-2011, 04:31 PM

I decided to take a break from the harness today and go shopping. I went to 3 parts houses an found this.

Dayco hoses E80418 and E80406
Dorman fitting for the steam line 785-400
ATC fuse block 5171571.
I'm going to run a fuse link to the fuse block and put it right behind the battery. I will post pics up when done. I also test fit the lines cutting off about 1.5" and they fit nicely.

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