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Old 08-04-2010, 12:55 PM   #46
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Oil pressure plus all the above

Thanks for posting that, looks like that will kill a Saturday, lots of cussing and bloody knuckles tho. I have the same problem, scared me at first I thought my engine was gonna blow. Of course I have the ABS TRACS skid control lights on and off all the time too. At this point I just said F-it, if it drives I'm fine. Maybe one day I'll be as motivated as you if the thing just shuts down, right now it's a love-hate relationship.
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Old 08-05-2010, 09:28 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by rob24 View Post
Thanks for posting that, looks like that will kill a Saturday, lots of cussing and bloody knuckles tho. I have the same problem, scared me at first I thought my engine was gonna blow. Of course I have the ABS TRACS skid control lights on and off all the time too. At this point I just said F-it, if it drives I'm fine. Maybe one day I'll be as motivated as you if the thing just shuts down, right now it's a love-hate relationship.
You need to contact ABSFIXER for that issue. It's a common problem on high mileage cars and a inexpensive fix.
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Old 08-19-2010, 09:48 AM   #48
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Hey Junkman, just wanted to say "thanks" for posting these diys....thanks to you I've redone my brakes, rotors and painted the calipers and just finished replacing my oil sensor on my 2000. While I was at it I also installed a new ls6 intake and ported TB...none of which I would have had the confidence to try without seeing your posts first. It was lots easier than I expected! This Bud's for you!!
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:08 AM   #49
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Hey Junkman, just wanted to say "thanks" for posting these diys....thanks to you I've redone my brakes, rotors and painted the calipers and just finished replacing my oil sensor on my 2000. While I was at it I also installed a new ls6 intake and ported TB...none of which I would have had the confidence to try without seeing your posts first. It was lots easier than I expected! This Bud's for you!!
Thanks Todd. I would have never had the balls to do it either if it wasn't for guys who have posted DIY's before me. These forums are a life saver and I try my best to help out as many of my Corvette brothers that I can.
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:19 AM   #50
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You can change it without removing the intake. You basically remove enough of that stuff to slide it to the side. You don't even have to disconnect the fuel lines.

Yours is complete and shows how it should technically be done.

As far as just sticking your hand back there without removing anything I would have to see that myself. It's tight in there.
10-4 check out the utube vid on this .... he did the whole thing without removing any extra parts ...
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:33 PM   #51
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10-4 check out the utube vid on this .... he did the whole thing without removing any extra parts ...
JW is talking about doing the job by sliding the intake forward, not completely removing it. The You Tube video you saw takes practice and consist of NOT moving the intake at all. I have yet to hear anyone chime in and say that they have done it that way, especially in 30 minutes. There's also the danger of dropping debris inside the block or cross-threading the hole where the EOP sensor goes. Not a chance that I would want to take.

That's why I relocated mine. Now it's a 10 minute job.
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Old 02-17-2011, 01:08 PM   #52
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Junkman, great write up! I just have one question, why does the before and after pics of your mug, you have different shirts on? With all the doumenting and pictures was this done over a couple of days

I have completed your procedure about four times on different club cars and it is the best way to do the job. It is about a three hour job start to finish. I think you should include the fuel rail cover deminsion for the gauge hole in your write up. It would help the lesser experianced guys.
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Old 02-17-2011, 01:51 PM   #53
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Yep, that was two days of work for me. Documentation does slow you down quite a bit. Since I had never removed a intake on any car before this one, I was documenting my ass off. Add to that, the instructions in the service manual are written for a mechanic, not a shade tree turn screw like me so I had to figure out stuff as I went along. I have to admit that I do work very slow and methodical when doing something for the first time so I do a lot of standing around admiring the fact that I successfully removed a screw sometime.

The first day, I got all the way to the part where I was disconnecting the stuff behind the manifold. Since I couldn't see it, I finally gave up and called it the day. The next day, it took me 10 minutes to figure it out. Something that I learned from repairing computer networks is that sometimes, you have got to know when to walk away. I have found that for me, this applies to auto work too!

You are right. It takes me about 3 hours to do it now. I am in no race when it comes to working on my car, as I don't want to be like a lot of guys who have stuff that doesn't work when they finish. I'm not trying to do the work twice and I've never met a woman who was impressed by a fast mechanic... if you know what I mean.
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Old 02-17-2011, 02:15 PM   #54
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Oh, I almost forgot. The hole that I cut in the fuel rail cover is 2" in diameter. The problem with giving a specific location is that the gauge can be placed in a myriad of locations within a half inch of where mine is located. Thus, I have a extra fuel rail cover (my original that I messed up... ), that has a 2.5" hole cut in it that I now use to figure out where to cut the hole in the cover after I do the install. That's how I keep from screwing up fuel rail covers.

Last edited by Junkman2008; 05-05-2012 at 01:57 AM.
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:22 PM   #55
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Well it looks methodical and very professional, outstanding job!
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:32 PM   #56
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Not trying to take anything away from Junks post, this can be done without removing the manifold. If youve ever changed spark plugs on a c4 with hedders, this would be cake. lol

Last edited by T.M.; 02-17-2011 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 02-17-2011, 03:32 PM   #57
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Thanks. Glad you were able to use it.
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Old 02-18-2011, 09:49 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
JW is talking about doing the job by sliding the intake forward, not completely removing it. The You Tube video you saw takes practice and consist of NOT moving the intake at all. I have yet to hear anyone chime in and say that they have done it that way, especially in 30 minutes. There's also the danger of dropping debris inside the block or cross-threading the hole where the EOP sensor goes. Not a chance that I would want to take.

That's why I relocated mine. Now it's a 10 minute job.
please let me chime in and say ..... mine was replaced without doing any of that ..... my guy used a ext with a loose universal and a deep socket a coat hanger bent so as to hold the wire for the top connector .... aside for the fact the it IS tight ... it is a can do. shame on GM .....that thing could have been put anywhere on the engine ..... that was just to make money for the dealer ...
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Old 02-18-2011, 10:58 AM   #59
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The part that is interesting to me is how you unplug the electrical connector from the EOP sensor without damaging those wires. As you can see in this picture, there is a tab on that connector. Yanking on those wires could result in your gauge no longer working.

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Old 02-18-2011, 04:57 PM   #60
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Watch the vid i posted, thats were the coat hanger comes in, bend a little hook at the end, send it down and pop the clip. Works no matter if the clip is facing the front or is on the back. That said, when i do mine on this c5, i going to remove the manifold so i can paint it and detail some other stuff as im getting ready to do a coil relocation and toss the cheap fuel rail covers
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06 6 speed manual. Z51 . Lemans blue/white stripes... Big ass Texas speed cam and valvetrain...Kooks longtubes / xpipe / Corsa /... Vararam.... underdriven pulley.. Electric water pump... Monster clutch..all done on jack stands at home Customs tunes.. 2 1/2 inch drop and dark ass tint
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