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Old 06-19-2014, 09:17 PM   #31
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Right
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Old 06-19-2014, 09:20 PM   #32
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Thanks for the update.
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Old 06-19-2014, 09:23 PM   #33
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Sorry. I thought that I did. Its been a while. I appreciate your help.
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Old 06-19-2014, 09:32 PM   #34
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Glad that I could assist.
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Old 04-15-2016, 12:41 AM   #35
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Finally got B0441

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Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
Glad that I could assist.
JM, Like OP, I have read all posts known to man about this issue. bringing up old post, as I am one of the poor souls getting B0441, Outof range, drivers side. Tonight I REmoved and opened actuator(2001 Z06, manufactured in November of 2000, so may be old style) and all looks good. Good grease, no burned spots on circuit board. When replacing Fuse 27, I can hear left side blend door go through limits, but not drivers side. Drivers side Warm air condition occurs with and without AC on, so I am pretty sure it isn't R134 issue. heat on drivers side is same, AC on or off. Ideas?
I will try to hook power supply to it tomorrow to see if it cycles. Can't turn gears manually against worm drive(per your suggestion above)
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:29 AM   #36
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... Tonight I REmoved and opened actuator(2001 Z06, manufactured in November of 2000, so may be old style) and all looks good.
Stop right there. I posted a BIG ol' picture of the newer style actuator and gave a detailed description of the mechanical and physical differences of the older and newer actuator in THIS thread. So if you removed the driver's side actuator from your car, you should be able to CLEARLY identify which actuator you have. So my first question to you is, "Which actuator do you have?"


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... When replacing Fuse 27, I can hear left side blend door go through limits, but not drivers side. Drivers side Warm air condition occurs with and without AC on, so I am pretty sure it isn't R134 issue.
No you are NOT sure it is not a R-134a issue because you haven't had the system evacuated in order to see exactly how much R-134a is in your system. You are guessing, which is what guys do when they want to spend a LOT of money trying to figure out what is wrong with their AC instead of performing a proper trouble-shooting procedure. I stress this big time in all the AC threads I post in. You have slightly gotten the cart before the horse by pulling the actuator. The first thing that you should have done is the evacuation procedure in order to see how much R-134 you have (which should be exactly 0.68 kg [1.50 lb] for your year car). By eliminating the R-134a as a possible issue, you can then concentrate on the other "most likely" issues that our AC systems experience.

Since you have removed the actuator, you can test it by turning the shaft to see if the thing will rotate. If you can't turn it by hand, then you have an issue. It should freely turn with little effort. Another thing that you can do once you get to the point where the actuator can be removed from the car, is to attempt to turn it with the motor running and the AC turned on. Do this in both directions until you hear the vent door close and open. If you close the door and open the door, the temperature of the air coming out that side of the car should change. If the temperature doesn't change regardless of the door being opened or closed, then you most likely have an R-134a issue. But again, knowing your R-134a level is the FIRST step in trouble-shooting an AC issue.

One other thing to note. You could have an R-134a AND an actuator issue. So if you can't manually turn the one you have, you may as well start looking for a replacement. If you can't turn it by hand then don't waste any time hooking electricity up to it. It's toast.
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:07 PM   #37
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thanks for the quick response. I am still puzzled how R134 can affect temps with AC off. Can you explain that? I can't see how R134 weight can cause hot air with AC off, running outside air. The hot air doesnt change with AC on or off, expecially off which is where I normally run(cool Northwest). That is the red herring that keeps me focused on the actuator as the root cause of the problem.
BTW, I will have the R134 checked! Thanks you for your patience with an enthusiastic amateur!
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:59 PM   #38
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No patience required. I enjoy sharing information, although some of the thinner skinned guys always think that I am chewing their asses. I guess it is the Marine in me.

The way our AC systems work has a built in fail safe. The AC compressor itself is lubricated by the R-134a. If the R-134a gets too low, the system will default to heat and turn off the compressor. The way the engineer's see it, you can drive a car in the summer time with no air but you CAN'T drive the car in the winter time with no heat (because the windows will need to be defogged). So low refrigerant always causes the car to default to heat. Another thing, if your outside temperature sensor goes bad, it will cause the system to default to heat also because again, you can drive without AC but not without heat in the winter.
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:28 PM   #39
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[QUOTE=Junkman2008;3203713]No patience required. I enjoy sharing information, although some of the thinner skinned guys always think that I am chewing their asses. I guess it is the Marine in me. I totally get you, brother. 1960's Submariner, 5 yrs 7 mos 27 days, but who's counting?

"The way the engineer's see it, you can drive a car in the summer time with no air but you CAN'T drive the car in the winter time with no heat (because the windows will need to be defogged). So low refrigerant always causes the car to default to heat."

I get that for failsafe to bilateral heat, AC on or off. But, not for driver's hot pax cool /cold regardless if AC on or off. So, that's why I'm stuck on actuator as root cause.
BTW, when I took it out, actuator was at midpoint, not at stop or "out of range" visually. It is new model with stops. watched it initialize, it went hard to to both stops, and rested at a stop. I then adjusted heat and watched rotator move. it takes a few secs then responds to heat or cool command, i.e., moves a little bit and stops. still showing b0441. I opened and shut blend door w wrench. it seemed stuck. Ima remount act'r and see if it will operate door now.
Cheers.
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Old 04-15-2016, 11:08 PM   #40
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If that is what it is doing, then you have a R134a problem. I bet that you're at least half empty.
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:30 PM   #41
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Remove your dash pad. It is not that hard or difficult. It really isn't. Then swap your 2 actuators. If the problems switches sides, Then replace your bad actuator. If the problem stays then there might be a problem with your control head or wiring between control head and actuator.
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Old 04-20-2016, 12:13 AM   #42
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Remove your dash pad. It is not that hard or difficult. It really isn't. Then swap your 2 actuators. If the problems switches sides, Then replace your bad actuator. If the problem stays then there might be a problem with your control head or wiring between control head and actuator.
Copy that. I have a track day this w/e so I'll just button it up with cold air on me, and warm air blowing on any student who wants to ride along in the Z06!
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Old 04-20-2016, 11:35 AM   #43
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There is another way. When the control head first powers up after the battery being disconnected it does a full sweep of both actuators. If you unplug the bad actuator as it sweeps by full cold, it will stay there and you will just have to plug actuator back in for heat.
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Old 04-20-2016, 06:33 PM   #44
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4 armed man!

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There is another way. When the control head first powers up after the battery being disconnected it does a full sweep of both actuators. If you unplug the bad actuator as it sweeps by full cold, it will stay there and you will just have to plug actuator back in for heat.
Thsi sounds like a ob for the famous 4-armed man!! Seriously, I'll need to do more trouble shooting with the dashpad off, after next track day. Thank you for your time and suggestions. I love these Corvette boards, full o' smart guys.
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Old 04-21-2016, 01:18 AM   #45
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You still haven't had your R-134a checked? A thing that requires no tools on your behalf, just some sitting and waiting?
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