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Old 06-09-2019, 12:48 PM   #31
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Aluminum will really suck and you'll spend a lot of time replacing them. No longer a reliable streeter.
GM uses forged steel in their zz502 crate motor( https://www.chevrolet.com/performanc...-zz-502-deluxe ). This motor makes 508hp and 580tq. And is obviously extremely stable to be sold as a crate engine. with a 2yr, 50k mile warranty.
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Old 06-09-2019, 02:43 PM   #32
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GM uses forged steel in their zz502 crate motor
I know that. What does me saying that aluminum rods suck on the street have to do with a forged 502? C'mon Brian, if your going to respond to my quote at least make it relevant.
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Old 06-10-2019, 02:57 AM   #33
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Now that's clever. "F" you too



Aluminum will really suck and you'll spend a lot of time replacing them. No longer a reliable streeter. What happened to the bought, paid for, and shipped Ti rods? I didn't see any on Crowers site and a set of forging dies are about 30,000-40,000 dollars. Probably too much cash outlay for the two sets of rods they might be making a year.

Get in touch with Fowler engines in Columbus. Ohio. I've toured their shop many times and the have a whole gaggle of CNC machines. They make their own superchargers (billet), billet aluminum rods, billet timing covers, and will do custom orders for anything you can imagine. The shop is super clean. If I was eating a bologna sammich and the meat fell out and onto the floor, I'd pick it up and put it back on my bread. I don't care who saw me. It's just that clean.

Opels were OK cars back in the day. My Brother-in-law and a Opel GT and a Opel Manta. He named them "J. Edgar Opel" although they were made by Adam Opel & Company.

Just get some steel rods. Anything else may hold up your build ? forever. The Pontiac guys in Engine Masters use steel. 455's were not made to be 8-9000 RPM screamers. They're torque happy. Use the torque at a lower RPM and enjoy a longer engine life. You're never going to be the fastest. I don't see the sense in increasing your build cost by 300% just to gain 5% performance.
Drag Race only.
Not Road Racimg.
Drag Racing No Prep with Time clocks off.
Running for money.
Others place bets on You.
A Huge Cash jackpot to Win.
That does not exist Gunny Road Race.
Just Indy 500 and Lemans.

Big Chief spins his 480 cubic inch Pontiac V8 with 4.500 inch stroke crank to 9500 Rpms crossing the finish line.
Google. Hotrod Feature every year his Crow GTO.
Full Water Jacket block and heads.
GRP Aluminum Rods he has.
Hard to argue with 4780 Hp at 65 psi High Boost.
Came out #1 again in 2019.
He beat every one in the World again.
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:00 AM   #34
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I know that. What does me saying that aluminum rods suck on the street have to do with a forged 502? C'mon Brian, if your going to respond to my quote at least make it relevant.
Every single GM engine built since 2011 has Aluminum main and rod bearings.
Proven on Grumps to fail blow up.
He showed us all.
That includes B8 & B15.
Reach that threshold...Bam.
Fucking rod through the B8.
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:06 AM   #35
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Now that's clever. "F" you too



Aluminum will really suck and you'll spend a lot of time replacing them. No longer a reliable streeter. What happened to the bought, paid for, and shipped Ti rods? I didn't see any on Crowers site and a set of forging dies are about 30,000-40,000 dollars. Probably too much cash outlay for the two sets of rods they might be making a year.

Get in touch with Fowler engines in Columbus. Ohio. I've toured their shop many times and the have a whole gaggle of CNC machines. They make their own superchargers (billet), billet aluminum rods, billet timing covers, and will do custom orders for anything you can imagine. The shop is super clean. If I was eating a bologna sammich and the meat fell out and onto the floor, I'd pick it up and put it back on my bread. I don't care who saw me. It's just that clean.

Opels were OK cars back in the day. My Brother-in-law and a Opel GT and a Opel Manta. He named them "J. Edgar Opel" although they were made by Adam Opel & Company.

Just get some steel rods. Anything else may hold up your build ? forever. The Pontiac guys in Engine Masters use steel. 455's were not made to be 8-9000 RPM screamers. They're torque happy. Use the torque at a lower RPM and enjoy a longer engine life. You're never going to be the fastest. I don't see the sense in increasing your build cost by 300% just to gain 5% performance.
The other fails to understand.
Never went College like us and studied physics and Calculus.
Simply put reduce the rotating mass and reciprocating mass and the Bottom end reliability and failure point is doubled or quadrupled.
Best done with Titanium Rods.

Coming back from Crower.
Took 1 month.
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:33 AM   #36
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I know that. What does me saying that aluminum rods suck on the street have to do with a forged 502? C'mon Brian, if your going to respond to my quote at least make it relevant.
A friend had a 1981 Camaro.
It scaled 3600 lbs.
355 010 4-bolt block.
He used Bill Miller Aluminum Rods.
Dart Iron Heads.
1st good Chevy SB heads besides Brownfield.
I installed 3.90 gears in the GM 8-1/ 2 10 bolt.
Turbo 350 Trans full manual shift.
He street drove it .
Around 15000 miles on that engine over 3 years never failed.
Super Hot Hi Tech CC Flat Tappet solid lifter cam.
It would wind to 8500 Rpms.
All motor pass it was a 11.50 ET.
150 shot he ran 10.30 ET.
Gave it 400 Hp NOS shot 2nd year and Ran 9.80 ET.

Ultra low tech by today's standard.

A Holley 800 CFM Double Pumper 4150 carb on top of a Wieland Team G single plane intake.
Hooker Super Comp Headers.

Faster than the Hellcat and this is 1994-1996 years here.
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:42 AM   #37
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I know that. What does me saying that aluminum rods suck on the street have to do with a forged 502? C'mon Brian, if your going to respond to my quote at least make it relevant.
Steve could get 20-50 passes on the TH350 on Nitrous.
We always had that trans out to rebuild it.
Could get it done 3 hours out of the car. Teardown. Rebuild in his driverway. Back in. He had no garage back then. All built outside.
Good old days.

He eventual went TH400.
No more blown up transmissions.
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Old 06-10-2019, 07:11 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Maniacmechanic1 View Post
The other fails to understand.
Never went College like us and studied physics and Calculus.
Simply put reduce the rotating mass and reciprocating mass and the Bottom end reliability and failure point is doubled or quadrupled.
Best done with Titanium Rods.

Coming back from Crower.
Took 1 month.
I studied Auto Mechanics, myself. Adding size and weight to the rotating assembly adds torque. Adding size and weight to the reciprocating assembly beats the shit out of the block. I am sorry physics and calculus let you down here.
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Old 06-10-2019, 07:38 AM   #39
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I studied Auto Mechanics, myself. Adding size and weight to the rotating assembly adds torque. Adding size and weight to the reciprocating assembly beats the shit out of the block. I am sorry physics and calculus let you down here.
You need to Start Your Own Thread Titled Stephen Renyolds Garage.
Oh that's Right you don't own a house with a garage.
You Rent.
You 3D Print.
You post your work garage.

I am the Teacher.
Not You.
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:05 AM   #40
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Quote:
He used Bill Miller Aluminum Rods.
Quote:
He street drove it .
Around 15000 miles on that engine over 3 years never failed
Quote:
It would wind to 8500 Rpms.
I looked at aluminum rods real closely for hot street engines. I visited the folks at Nelson Racing Engines who CNC their own AL rods. I read articles in Engine Masters, and Professional Engine Builder publications and came up with a few thoughts. As I said earlier, Aluminum rods suck for any sort of street use. The Fuel guys get 8-10 runs on a set of rods. Pro Stock fellas get 20-25 runs on a set and some of the lower classes get up to 100 runs per set. That's like 25 miles of service at WOT. You'll also have to buy another crank if you want to go back to steel. There's not enough Mallory metal on the planet to put the weight needed back on the crank.

If an engine needs to go from WOT to full braking then Aluminum rods will help along with Aluminum flywheels, aluminum or carbon fiber driveshafts and straight cut tranny gears. My Impala revs like a dentist's drill and that works for me. Just build it right. While I neither know what your finances are, nor do I care, replacing rods every 25-50 runs seems like a big waste, for the miniscule gains.

I thought Crower "motherfucked" you out of your Titanium dream rods. That's why you "almost" bought some aluminum rods. You've got to make up your mind if you ever intend to get a car on the road. Does Crower even have the Titanium dies for a big assed Pontiac rod?

As I recall, that engine had some pretty awesome rods right from Pontiac.
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:26 AM   #41
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You need to Start Your Own Thread Titled Stephen Renyolds Garage.
Oh that's Right you don't own a house with a garage.
You Rent.
You 3D Print.
You post your work garage.

I am the Teacher.
Not You.
I cut my finger recently, too. I know you remember. But I cut my finger at work. And my job sent me to urgent care that was close by and most importantly open. I don't want to hurt myself after hours and sweat and be greasy all night.

I am here to tell you after a long day of fixing these Corvettes, it is damn nice to come home and be clean in the air conditioning and play with the plastic stuff with my kids. I wouldn't trade it for the world.
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:36 AM   #42
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I cut my finger recently, too. I know you remember. But I cut my finger at work. And my job sent me to urgent care that was close by and most importantly open. I don't want to hurt myself after hours and sweat and be greasy all night.

I am here to tell you after a long day of fixing these Corvettes, it is damn nice to come home and be clean in the air conditioning and play with the plastic stuff with my kids. I wouldn't trade it for the world.

We need a Full size Mittler Brothers Mill tubing notcher.
The Baleigh we are using is a piece of shit.
Ed calls it the Motherfucker that notcher I agree.


Also need a J series head Bridgeport Verticle Mill.
I would like a Logan Powermatic Lathe to use or a Vintage South Bend Heavy 10.
I had them in my old barn workshop.
I could make almost anything on them.
I still have my Dumore #14 Toolpost grinder.
I tried to buy that land and property & barn from my friend Dan.
Bank does not give out mortgages on properties with Deed not ready to sell.


Print full size machines. Stuff costs. $5 -100 K +.
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:57 AM   #43
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I looked at aluminum rods real closely for hot street engines. I visited the folks at Nelson Racing Engines who CNC their own AL rods. I read articles in Engine Masters, and Professional Engine Builder publications and came up with a few thoughts. As I said earlier, Aluminum rods suck for any sort of street use. The Fuel guys get 8-10 runs on a set of rods. Pro Stock fellas get 20-25 runs on a set and some of the lower classes get up to 100 runs per set. That's like 25 miles of service at WOT. You'll also have to buy another crank if you want to go back to steel. There's not enough Mallory metal on the planet to put the weight needed back on the crank.

If an engine needs to go from WOT to full braking then Aluminum rods will help along with Aluminum flywheels, aluminum or carbon fiber driveshafts and straight cut tranny gears. My Impala revs like a dentist's drill and that works for me. Just build it right. While I neither know what your finances are, nor do I care, replacing rods every 25-50 runs seems like a big waste, for the miniscule gains.

I thought Crower "motherfucked" you out of your Titanium dream rods. That's why you "almost" bought some aluminum rods. You've got to make up your mind if you ever intend to get a car on the road. Does Crower even have the Titanium dies for a big assed Pontiac rod?

As I recall, that engine had some pretty awesome rods right from Pontiac.

I did say try and get the lightest strongest steel rods you can.
Carillo be the #1 choice of course.
( Seen recent they are making aluminum connecting rods too.....They are of IMCA Racing fame Carillo of course...Drag racing market they must want to get into all I can figure)


Carillo makes Ti rods also.
Must cost $12K a set from them.....Buying the very best even better than Crower.


Everyone under the Sun is making Boost Rods or advertise as so now.
Lunati seems OK Boost line rods. No experience with them.


Its the Exhaust Blowdown stroke that is murder on connecting rods.
Its changing direction instant from BDC.
Pushing exhaust gasses out with Valve Overlap scavenging helping out if cam timing is 63-120 V.0.
Why engine braking is murder on AL Rods.


Turbos are supposed to be easier on Rods.
You don't want to fill hardblock the SS Block unless you really have to.
Be difficult to keep cool on the street and road race.
1st step after hardblock is throw the T-stat away.
Have to need max water flow all the time.


AL not my 1st choice.
Ti is.
They do not call you at Crower to update.
Not their Policy.
Told to just watch my Credit card being billed.
And watch for email.
I did.
1 week went by. 2. 3. 4.
What the ?
Supposed to take 7 days they said.


Have another set of Crower I beam forged steel rods I had made back in 2011.
Showed you on CFC4 back then. Think you forgot.
How would you feel if me ?
Say fick all Crower........Call up Bill Miller for AL.
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Old 06-10-2019, 09:34 AM   #44
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I had them in my old barn workshop.

Do tell.
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:06 AM   #45
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Do tell.
Stuff was Dans.
Wanted me to buy it.
No Room at my Farmhouse I bought.
Have to sit outside the Bridgeport and Lathe.

Was his old Family farm.
Rented the House out.
I rented the barn shop from him.
Had It for 12 years.
It was awesome.
Middle of Nowhere.
All gone now. Got leveled all by new owner.
Huge Morton building now.

Had 19 cars & trucks out there at one time.
My Personal play center.
Lots of fun.
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