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Old 01-01-2009, 11:59 AM   #31
Dan85Vette
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redmen - you rock! You wouldn't believe how many times I've opened this thread throughout my suspension project. Just being able to compare your pictures to mine, and make sure I had pieces back in the right position. The front spring sucked, time consuming just trying to figure the best way to get to the ridiculous top bolts.

I've finally had some time this week to start back in on the '85. I installed a new front spring today and it went well until I got to the rear passenger bracket bolt. I remembered how crappy it was taking it off but putting it back on required a different approach. I'm laying there trying to figure out how the heck to get a wrench or socket to it when I remember this:

Quote:
On the passenger side there is about a one inch diameter hole in the frame rail that you can squeeze your extension with universal down into and do the same as on the driver side.
A few feet of extensions and a weird yoga position later and I had it all bolted up. The driver's side wasn't as bad since I could manage to squeeze my entire hand up in the frame enough to put a wrench on it. But still, what a mess. lol



Hubs are laying in place now, so we'll soon see just how low it is on stock 16" wheels.
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:05 AM   #32
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3 ??

1st: How many degrees of camber change do you end up with after the drop?

2nd: Where does the front roll center move to? IE: change in height.

3rd: How much does the drop effect bump & toe steer?
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Old 01-03-2009, 09:23 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan85Vette View Post
A few feet of extensions and a weird yoga position later and I had it all bolted up.

Cant say I didnt do the same thing. Be sure to post some pics up in this thread when you are all finished, I know its going to look killer!
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Old 01-03-2009, 09:26 AM   #34
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Quote:
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3 ??

1st: How many degrees of camber change do you end up with after the drop?

2nd: Where does the front roll center move to? IE: change in height.

3rd: How much does the drop effect bump & toe steer?

I believe the drop does effect bump and toe steer and camber to some degree. However, when you get your alignment be sure to tell them that you just lowered the car and they SHOULD know to be extra careful when adjusting the camber in your wheels. I know they took care of mine as best they could and call me crazy but I thought I could see a difference after they adjusted it
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Old 01-04-2009, 07:03 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redmen031 View Post
I believe the drop does effect bump and toe steer and camber to some degree. However, when you get your alignment be sure to tell them that you just lowered the car and they SHOULD know to be extra careful when adjusting the camber in your wheels. I know they took care of mine as best they could and call me crazy but I thought I could see a difference after they adjusted it
Thanks for the reply & info. As old as the C4's are & as much as they are raced I thought someone would have the roll center data recorded.

I plan on a brake upgrade this spring & will measure the suspension points at that time & figure the roll centers front & rear.
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Old 01-04-2009, 09:00 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJS View Post
Thanks for the reply & info. As old as the C4's are & as much as they are raced I thought someone would have the roll center data recorded.

I plan on a brake upgrade this spring & will measure the suspension points at that time & figure the roll centers front & rear.
Sounds great, Please post your results once you gather them!
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Old 01-04-2009, 12:51 PM   #37
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since this thread has been bumped i figured i could ask this. I have been planning on doing this a long time, and will finally try this spring to finish it. But I was wondering, how do I go about "slamming" the front end? Do I not use the supplied wedges at all??
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Old 01-04-2009, 12:55 PM   #38
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The wedges are used to maintain the original design of the spring, and helps keep the pivot point on the wedge, not directly on the spring. Without the wedges in place, the spring will pivot on the frame, and over time may result in spring failure. That's why I sanded down the wedges as much as possible, to give me as much of a lowering as possible all while maintaining the pivot point on the spring. Let me know if that doesn't make sense, I can try to explain it better
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Check out my LS1 engine build thread HERE

SAVE THE WAVE
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Lots of donuts in the SNOW!!
Old 01-04-2009, 01:11 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redmen031 View Post
The wedges are used to maintain the original design of the spring, and helps keep the pivot point on the wedge, not directly on the spring. Without the wedges in place, the spring will pivot on the frame, and over time may result in spring failure. That's why I sanded down the wedges as much as possible, to give me as much of a lowering as possible all while maintaining the pivot point on the spring. Let me know if that doesn't make sense, I can try to explain it better
NO that makes perfect sense. I couldn't remember how DC member hawaiianpunch got his vette so slammed. For some reason, i thought he didn't use the wedges, but that wouldn't work at all.

I've had the kit for about a year now, just haven't done anything with it. I'll be sure to try and sand the wedges as much as possible, while maintaining the "wedge" shape on top.

Do you know what else hawaiian did? or did he simply shave his wedges to the max??
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Old 01-04-2009, 03:21 PM   #40
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Nice to see this beeing bumped again

As you can see I showed my lowering with a twist on page 2 on this thread. just wanted to add my input to this great thread/showhow by redmen031

I did not have the time or patience to wait for the wedges or the bolts to be shipped from the US(I live in Norway). So i went to the local hardware store and bought som longer bolts for the rear. For the front I wanted to try to mod it my self. Since i have seen some people having problems with their wedges coming of the spring due to bad glue + + and ending up with the spring hitting the frame. Better explained by CentralCoaster on page 2 and here: http://webpages.charter.net/khasting.../lowering.html

Since the original rubber is not wedge formed i did not want to try to shape it like a wedge(did think about it). I just sawed the rubber in half and put the spring back in. The thing that might have been just plane stupid of me was that i wanted it to be really low, so I removed the rubber and metal bushing on the end of the spring. So now there is metal vs metal on the end (metal on the spring vs the lower wishbone?) Now I am considering reinstalling some rubber at the end for next summer. Have to check out the damage first, did drive it like it is all last summer. Anyone have some input on this?

This is the one i removed:


All gone:


No wedges for me, just sawed in half:


To low?


redmen031: Hope this does not screw up your thread :P will edit this post if you wish.

At last, sorry for the bad english :P
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Old 01-04-2009, 05:52 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRM87 View Post
Do you know what else hawaiian did? or did he simply shave his wedges to the max??
I'm not sure if he even used wedges, but I remember his car was LOW! He also had a body kit on it which may have made it appear a little lower also.
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SAVE THE WAVE
Pictures ------ More Pictures
Lots of donuts in the SNOW!!
Old 01-04-2009, 06:21 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redmen031 View Post
I'm not sure if he even used wedges, but I remember his car was LOW! He also had a body kit on it which may have made it appear a little lower also.
yea i remember that. he had absolutely no space between tire and fender.

I am going to get rid of my 18" zr1s and get a pair of 17/18" wheels with a wider rear tire. However, I am going to try to go with a lower profile tire than i have now, so i want to slam it as low as possible, so it will look right.

Thanks for the help, I will try to find what he did.
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Old 01-04-2009, 06:46 PM   #43
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Quote:
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yea i remember that. he had absolutely no space between tire and fender.

I am going to get rid of my 18" zr1s and get a pair of 17/18" wheels with a wider rear tire. However, I am going to try to go with a lower profile tire than i have now, so i want to slam it as low as possible, so it will look right.

Thanks for the help, I will try to find what he did.
you can go to low and the sterring get stiffer. put more of a load on the rack. i am at 25 3/4 to the arch of the wheel well and thats pretty low. going to low and you will not have as much camber gain. the a-arms will be maxed out. you can keep shimming the upper out but that thros bump steer into play. then get into a curve at a higher rate of speed and suspension travel its intire range of motion up and BS come into effect and guess which way it will dart. if you get under a c4 there aare a couple things to look at. the LCA has a cast mark at the ball joint, it should be inline with the LCA mounting points. the car can be lowered to some what of a degree before all these points start changing and thros the geometry off. mite be something you will wont to think about when you drive a car off in a curve at 80 and the pavement changes while you hook a big left and the rear does not follow. their are bump kits...but that is one of the hardest things to figure out and make rite.
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Old 01-05-2009, 02:02 PM   #44
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epaholst, Definitely get some rubber under the ends of the springs. That design with the puck looks better than the 84-87 design. Ours have a big chunk of rubber bonded to the spring, but it allows sand and gravel to get under it. This chews up the control arm a little, but not as bad I'd expect yours to with metal on metal.

Punch's car has the spring basically sitting on the frame, and the ends are shaved too. He also has some optical illusion going on because all the pics he posts are shrunk vertically.
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Old 04-17-2009, 03:02 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRM87 View Post
NO that makes perfect sense. I couldn't remember how DC member hawaiianpunch got his vette so slammed. For some reason, i thought he didn't use the wedges, but that wouldn't work at all.

I've had the kit for about a year now, just haven't done anything with it. I'll be sure to try and sand the wedges as much as possible, while maintaining the "wedge" shape on top.

Do you know what else hawaiian did? or did he simply shave his wedges to the max??
Aloha, I actualy didnt use the wedges at all, the spring was held in simply by it sitting in the a frames on each end of the spring, thats what held the spring in place, I also trimmed away the rubber pieces at each end of the spring to drop it another inch....... or at least close to another inch.
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