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Old 05-04-2010, 08:29 AM   #76
redmen031
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That looks GREAT! Nice job
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Mods: Ceasefire is no more...LS1 clone on the way! | 3.73 gears | Cross drilled-Slotted rotors | 18x10 out back & 17x9 up front | Headers | highflow CAT | 2.5" custom exhaust no mufflers

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Old 05-04-2010, 08:41 AM   #77
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[QUOTE=Dfab;1712967]Before and after. Car is sitting at 26 3/16's in the rear and 26 1/16 in front. This is the look of the car with the settings I described in my post above. Can you say WAY BETTER!!!

That does look really good . How does it ride being lowered with the base suspension ?
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Old 05-04-2010, 10:07 AM   #78
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The ride didn't change too much. The biggest improvement I've noticed is it doesn't float quite as much and follows the contours of the road better. Overall though, harshness only went up slightly, along with a little more steering effort.

If anyone is worried about sacrificing ride quality by lowering their car, you can definitely handle it. Plus the improvement in appearance is so worth it. Plus, I'm driving around the hills of PA and not scraping lips and underbody, so if I can do it anyone should be able to.
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Old 03-04-2011, 07:49 PM   #79
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Reviving this thread a little in search of some help. I just jacked my '94 up and got the drivers side tire off to take a look at the job ahead. Guys, I hope someone can answer this...from what I see, the spring has the two brackets holding it on...problem is, on my car, the rubber on top of the spring (spring to body) seems to only be about 1/2" thick. Rubber on bottom (spring to bracket) is only about 1/4" thick. Seems like a lot of you guys are cutting like an inch of rubber out, and my car just doesn't have that. I'm 100% positive the car has never been lowered (see pics, the fender gap is horrible) so I'm just wondering if the newer LT1 cars are different than what some of you have posted? Thanks for any help you can be!
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:45 PM   #80
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Someone correct me if i'm wrong, as it's been a while, but I believe the rubber on your vette shouldn't matter as much because you have to actually cut the aluminum bracket to lower it. You can also trim the rubber but the aluminum bracket should be trimmed as well.
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Lots of donuts in the SNOW!!
Old 03-07-2011, 09:17 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redmen031 View Post
Someone correct me if i'm wrong, as it's been a while, but I believe the rubber on your vette shouldn't matter as much because you have to actually cut the aluminum bracket to lower it. You can also trim the rubber but the aluminum bracket should be trimmed as well.
I just don't see how cutting the bracket would help the body sit lower?
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:49 AM   #82
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I just don't see how cutting the bracket would help the body sit lower?
I know I saw a picture on the internet a few years ago of someone doing this, I want to try to find it to verify that this is the way it has to be done. Hopefully I can locate this picture!
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Mods: Ceasefire is no more...LS1 clone on the way! | 3.73 gears | Cross drilled-Slotted rotors | 18x10 out back & 17x9 up front | Headers | highflow CAT | 2.5" custom exhaust no mufflers

Check out my LS1 engine build thread HERE

SAVE THE WAVE
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Lots of donuts in the SNOW!!
Old 03-07-2011, 11:41 AM   #83
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Quote:
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I know I saw a picture on the internet a few years ago of someone doing this, I want to try to find it to verify that this is the way it has to be done. Hopefully I can locate this picture!
http://webpages.charter.net/khasting.../lowering.html

This is a nice write-up on the whole lowering thing. I'm seeing something in this write-up that I haven't seen in others...the "aluminum spacer plate". I can see now where taking this spacer plate out would lower my '94 as THAT is what seems to make up the bulk of the height. What I saw and what I was questioning was the small amount of rubber attached to the actual spring. I'm assuming now that the spacer plate is what people are talking about cutting off or not putting back?
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:13 PM   #84
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You found it! That's exactly what I was looking for. Yes, that spacer plate is what you can cut/not put back. As far as the rubber goes, you might want to see how low you can go with just the spacer gone before you start removing the rubber on the spring itself.
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Check out my LS1 engine build thread HERE

SAVE THE WAVE
Pictures ------ More Pictures
Lots of donuts in the SNOW!!
Old 03-09-2011, 10:30 AM   #85
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Sorry to keep blowing-up this thread, but does anyone know the exact size and length of bolt needed for the rear?
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:58 AM   #86
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Quote:
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Sorry to keep blowing-up this thread, but does anyone know the exact size and length of bolt needed for the rear?
The thread count and pitch should be the same as your stock bolt, but the length of the new bolt is 10". If you are buying a bolt locally just make sure it is graded. The kits that are sold also includes a nylon lock nut for each side.
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Check out my LS1 engine build thread HERE

SAVE THE WAVE
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Lots of donuts in the SNOW!!
Old 04-12-2011, 04:39 PM   #87
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Hey guys. Just lowered my '85 and thought I'd share a tip. Instead of trying to saw off the rubber from the spring...try peeling it off. I was able to peel off both the center pieces that I replaced with the wedges AND the end pieces that sit on the control arms. I replaced the 5/8" thick end rubbers with some 1/8" hard rubber to keep the control arms protected. By doing all of this I was able to get very low and keep the wedges from the kit in stock form. So far so good I will post more pictures when I get a chance!

Oops it looks like the picture attachment function isn't so functional. What the picture shows is me peeling off the rubber using channel locks. It peels of 90% to the spring...you can sand off the rest.
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Old 04-12-2011, 06:39 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C4_Miles View Post
Hey guys. Just lowered my '85 and thought I'd share a tip. Instead of trying to saw off the rubber from the spring...try peeling it off. I was able to peel off both the center pieces that I replaced with the wedges AND the end pieces that sit on the control arms. I replaced the 5/8" thick end rubbers with some 1/8" hard rubber to keep the control arms protected. By doing all of this I was able to get very low and keep the wedges from the kit in stock form. So far so good I will post more pictures when I get a chance!
Cool tip
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Old 10-22-2018, 05:43 PM   #89
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On the invisable bolts that gives everybody a hard time, after spending no lie 1 and 1/2 hours searching, I ended up just giving up on finding them and took some needle nose pliers and held it from the bottom being careful not to damage the threads. Worked out much better for me and hopefully will for others.
I used a Mexican socket set (AKA) vise grips to grab the shank of the bolt to keep it from spinning.
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Old 10-23-2018, 08:16 AM   #90
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first let me state,
congrats on accomplishing what you set out to do...lower the corvettes stance marginally, obviously it took some though and effort!

now a simple question
WHY?
the reason I ask is that yes its obvious it makes the cars stance slightly more aggressive.
BUT, having track raced corvettes for decades,and driven some serious high performance cars including several 500 hp plus corvettes, Ive never found it helped handling as much as stiffer springs , correctly matched sway bars and shocks front and rear, bigger brakes and specifically selected wheels and tires, and heres the big issue GROUND CLEARANCE under the corvette,, anyone who has ever, closely looked at a corvette with a driver seated in it with a full tank of fuel, should be aware that theres very limited oil pan, transmission and k frame to road surface clearance., all it takes to cause significant damage is a speed bump drive way drainage curb or raised manhole cover.


IF YOU DON,T THINK OIL PANS AND FRAMES HIT SPEED BUMPS WHERE ARE ALL THE GROOVES IN THE CONCRETE come FROM??
if your un-aware, most aftermarket oil pans, for engines and transmissions, with increased capacity tend to extend up to an inch or a bit more even lower than the stock components,
most exhaust headers, extend an inch or so lower, further reducing ground clearance.
most c4 corvettes have less than 4" of ground clearance to begin with, reducing it further can potentially cause issues you might not have thought about
many corvettes could not drive over a common speed bump or clear the all too common badly installed manhole cover.








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IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
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