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Old 01-19-2008, 07:47 AM   #61
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Howdy Gary,

Q1: I've begun my TA rebuild project. I've got the arms off and spindle out on the driver side. My toolkit I bought for this job a while back includes many things, but doesn't seem to include tool J-8433-1. Is there some other procedure for pulling the outer bearing off the spindle or am I missing something?

I do have this tool.

Link NFG
Arm 1 so far:


Q2: One of my first DIY projects was fixing the parking brakes. In getting things apart, I inadvertently drilled well into the part of the spindle where the studs mount to. Are the spindles balanced to such a degree that I should consider replacing them, or is this removal of material not such a big deal?
No biggie.
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Old 01-19-2008, 08:18 AM   #62
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I have the clamp shell bearing splitter for the outer bearing. It's about $125, International Axle makes them. My buddy has one of those full Snap On puller sets and that what he used to remove it.

The spindles were riveted to the rotor and turned as one. That was the final finish. You don't have a balance problem but if you drilled off center then you're not going to be able to bolt on the rotor later- at least on that hole.
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:22 AM   #63
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I have the clamp shell bearing splitter for the outer bearing. It's about $125, International Axle makes them. My buddy has one of those full Snap On puller sets and that what he used to remove it.

The spindles were riveted to the rotor and turned as one. That was the final finish. You don't have a balance problem but if you drilled off center then you're not going to be able to bolt on the rotor later- at least on that hole.
Harbor Freight has a low priced bearing splitter and puller set. I use the splitter with my press and haven't busted it yet.
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Old 01-19-2008, 10:57 AM   #64
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Paul did that work on the outer spindle brg? the one made for this has a counterbore to go around the seal.

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Old 01-19-2008, 11:00 AM   #65
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I have the clamp shell bearing splitter for the outer bearing. . .
I think that's what I have. But I'm not quite sure how to use it. Do the bolts just go all the way through the clamp and against the spindle and then you just turn the bolt on each side a little at a time?
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:05 AM   #66
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Gary, haven't used it on my spindle bearing...yet.

Here's the link to it. It is a low priced unit with these letters stamped on the splitters CHINA.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93980
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:14 AM   #67
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Paul did that work on the outer spindle brg? the one made for this has a counterbore to go around the seal.

This is what I have, as well as the bolts that go through vertically. Obviously it goes underneath the bearing and around the spindle, but how do generate the lifting action? I would have expected there to be some kind of crossbar with a bolt and nut in the center to tie the sides together and lift evenly. . . I R confuzid.
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:17 AM   #68
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Paul,
I have that set and it didn't work- that I remember. I've had this one for years now.

VZ- you need to clamp around the bearing and tighten it evenly. Once you get it under the race then use the long vertical bolts to jack the whole thing.
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:22 AM   #69
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VZ- you need to clamp around the bearing and tighten it evenly. Once you get it under the race then use the long vertical bolts to jack the whole thing.
So the clamp doesn't have to go up dead evenly, it can ratchet a little side to side? In this scenario, I expect the bolts to come in contact with the spindle (whatever you call the part the studs mount to), is that correct?
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:12 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vettezuki View Post
This is what I have, as well as the bolts that go through vertically. Obviously it goes underneath the bearing and around the spindle, but how do generate the lifting action? I would have expected there to be some kind of crossbar with a bolt and nut in the center to tie the sides together and lift evenly. . . I R confuzid.
Mine was similar to this but had another bracket that bolted to the threaded holes on the sides of the bearings. It was somewhat u-shaped and had a threaded hole above the spindle. You then used the bolt above the spindle to "jack-off" (no pun intended) the bearing much the same way you remove a balancer.

ltlevil
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Old 01-19-2008, 10:56 PM   #71
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the way i got the outer bearing off.

1. use a grinder to cut off the cage.
2. carefully grind the inner race in one spot until it is very thin.
3. Take a chisel and bust it off.

takes about 5 minutes.
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:29 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turtlevette View Post
the way i got the outer bearing off.

1. use a grinder to cut off the cage.
2. carefully grind the inner race in one spot until it is very thin.
3. Take a chisel and bust it off.

takes about 5 minutes.
The American says sure, why not; but the German blood in me causes me to go into cold sweats and get fuzzy vision.
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:32 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltlevil View Post
Mine was similar to this but had another bracket that bolted to the threaded holes on the sides of the bearings. It was somewhat u-shaped and had a threaded hole above the spindle. You then used the bolt above the spindle to "jack-off" (no pun intended) the bearing much the same way you remove a balancer.

ltlevil
That's what the service manual describes, but that bracket didn't come in my kit . . . Mmm.
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Old 01-20-2008, 06:58 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by turtlevette View Post
the way i got the outer bearing off.

1. use a grinder to cut off the cage.
2. carefully grind the inner race in one spot until it is very thin.
3. Take a chisel and bust it off.

takes about 5 minutes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vettezuki View Post
The American says sure, why not; but the German blood in me causes me to go into cold sweats and get fuzzy vision.

If you're careful I guess you could just take the Dremel to it.... Krusty says it's good enough....

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Old 01-21-2008, 02:07 AM   #75
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Gary,

I don't see it outlined in this process here, but would you consider/recommend closing up the stitch welds with a solid bead? If so, would you just go down the length of the arm, or include the spindle housing area, which has more significant gaps and therefore require more fill material?
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