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Old 03-19-2015, 01:36 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by Richard454 View Post
THANKS-

I did the dry fit- cut inch long pieces of the 3/8" ribbon and strategically placed them around & then checked the SS trim fit. It's also nice to have my other C3 to go look at if I have a question.


I read somewhere that the urethane should see bare metal? After I neatly painted the frame- could always hit it if needed.

I'll take you up on your offer- and PM you my address.

And I pass it forward- have 6 molding clips left over- never going to use- so if anybody needs them- PM me and I drop them in the mail.

Richard
The bare metal thing has been distorted over many discussions. Whole idea is that the urethane should provide a strong bond to the car. Some people have repainted window channels with an inferior coating or procedure and the paint in that case lets go creating leaks or worse, a structural loss from and unbonded glass.
So if you have a good strong coating in the frame, properly applied, then the urethane should do it's job. I don't have to tell you what bare metal in a window channel would do! Technically the windshield primer is required on the glass even if you're using primerless urethane. I've talked to many suppliers that said hell just wipe it down with thinner and lay the urethane on it. The primer on glass is also supposed to block uv rays (?) that would degrade the urethane.
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:39 PM   #182
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Windshield install

Just a few quick pointers on the windshield install.

I think urethane is the way to go. Cut the tip of your tube for a "v" shaped bead about 3/4" tall and about 3/8 at the bottom. It makes a tall narrow ribbon that can make proper contact with the glass and metal all around.

An important note and probably the most critical aspect of the job, you want the glass to rest level with the center top chrome if possible. Like this...


IMG_1873 by slofut1, on Flickr

Not like this...

IMG_1872 by slofut1, on Flickr

So the idea is to get a nice consistent bead/ribbon with enough height that it will settle down to this level and not sink down too far, as in that last pic. Once the glass is in place it can be moved fairly well with some finesse. This side I had to press up from underneath and use a piece of the plastic tip I cut off the caulk tube to place under the corner of the glass to keep it at that height until it cured.
Now another thing, after the bead cures overnight it will suck the glass down about a 32nd" from where you thought it was done! So allow for that. That's why I stress having the surface of the glass level with the protruding edges of the center top chrome trim piece (see pics).

I used a 5/16 foam dam to hide the urethane bead from inside. This is tricky and I could do it better on the next one. And next time I'll use 3/8 dam and place it a bit closer to the edge.
But I would place the dam about 1/4" from the edge of the glass. Too much and you'll see too much foam past the side trims. 1/4" is about right and you only need that much for the ribbon.


IMG_1865 by slofut1, on Flickr

I used Dow primerless urethane and my glass buddies assured me that primer was not needed on the glass, next time I WILL use primer on the glass regardless! Just a feeling...


IMG_1864 by slofut1, on Flickr

As with anything like this, prep is where all the time is. Make sure the channel is perfectly clean, and if the paint is at all questionable or there are chips or scrapes prime with glass primer. Scuff the channel surface with scotch brite before priming.

Dry fit the glass again with the dam in place and put index marks across the frame and glass with masking tape to make it easier to line the glass up the first time when putting it in place.

I ran a piece of tape at the bottom edge to have a reference to run the urethane ribbon.


IMG_1862 by slofut1, on Flickr

Also, next time I would remove the interior trim, top and sides if not the dash too. I got lucky and didn't make a mess but it could get hairy quick. As for spacers, with urethane you really don't want spacers in the bead, the urethane isn't meant to seal against rubber or butyl spacers and the potential for leaks is large. There is a place for spacers however, at the bottom of the glass where it protrudes into the wiper channel. I used two rubber spacers underneath there (at the advice of my pro glass buddy) glued in place lightly with rubber weatherstrip adhesive (3m tube). The urethane is thick, and at about half way around the glass you appreciate that you bought the pricey caulking gun with the high squeeze ratio. Especially if you have CTS.

So with the spacers at the bottom, dam and ribbon in place on the glass, cups in place on the glass, I took the glass to the car and lined up the bottom first using the masking tape marks, hovered it over the frame briefly, got the bottom lightly in place and lowered it from bottom to top slowly watching the index marks. This took all of about ten seconds tops. Then I checked all index marks top, bottom and sides, shifted slightly to get it perfect then checked height. You have about ten good minutes to do slight adjustments, and at the top you're dealing with about a 16th inch or less leeway in height if you want the stainless trim to fit right. You have time to press it in place and see if if you need to scramble to make further height adjustments.


IMG_1869 by slofut1, on Flickr


So I realize I probably rambled on parts of this, but I do think it may help the next guy about to glue his windshield in. There's more I could add, but it's late. Hope this helps somebody down the road.


Last edited by slofut; 03-27-2015 at 06:18 AM.
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:27 PM   #183
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THANK YOU-

On my to do list tomorrow night!!!

Richard
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:31 AM   #184
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My thanks too! Your narrative and pics have given me a really good heads up on what to expect after I get the windshield shipped in.

A couple of questions if I may: As far as the height of the glass at the top across the width of the frame, you mentioned and showed pics of where the glass should end up nesting against the frame before settling (if I read your descriptive correctly).

Did you have to press pretty hard against the wet sealer to acquire the correct height away from the frame? And if given a choice, would it be preferable to guesstimate the initial height before settling to be a smidgin higher or lower than what your pics showed? Also, was it difficult to acquire an even height all the way across the top and sides of the windshield? And lastly, is there enough time/ability to pull the glass away and add/remove sealing material should the need occur? Or is the decision to commit final/fatal?

Of course, I want this install to be a one shot deal, but doing it for the first time always invites Murphy along for the ride looking to screw things up every chance he gets, so I'd like to be as prepared as possible.

Things get pretty hairy and expensive every time the phrase "That's not it!" gets mentioned, so I try to avoid going there as much as possible.

And thanks again for sharing your experience with your project. It's much appreciated.
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:07 PM   #185
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Hey Binx-

I'm replacing my windshield as well. From the exhaustive reading- looking at pics- my understanding- to keep the windshield from settling - using 3/8 3M Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealer - cut into 1" pieces and spaced about 12 " apart.

I left the tape on to see it it was at the right height- then either flattened it out or pushed up to get the correct.

I will have plenty of this stuff left over and will be glad to cut off a couple feet and ship it to you...and anybody else till its gone.

Richard
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Old 04-03-2015, 05:07 PM   #186
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Thanks for the offer Richard and what a great idea for adjusting the height of the glass. It sure leaves a whole lot of worry and guesswork out of the process.

As things go, I actually do have some of what you're offering because I bought it to install my rear window and then changed my mind and went with the kit from ZIP for the convenience of it all. Still not sure if that was the best way to go though.

As an aside, I used cerium oxide to refinish the rear window while I had it out, and was really pleased with the results. I picked up a few glass polishing pads, stuck it on a porter cable polisher, sprinkled some of that CO on the pad, wet it down a little and had at it until it each section dried itself from the polishing process. I then finished it all off with baby powder on a buffer for that silky smooth new glass sheen I was hoping for. Made quite a mess, but worked pretty well.
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Old 04-03-2015, 06:10 PM   #187
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Damn, I feel like mine is set to low. There is a gap between the windshield and the trim. May have to try and pull it.
Nice work Bill.
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Old 04-04-2015, 12:08 AM   #188
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Binx,
My local glass guys and vintage car restorers advised me not to use the butyl spacers in the urethane bead. The only spacers I used were at the bottom of the glass where it drops down towards the wiper motor (not in the urethane bead). That part extends down past the lower bead and has a gap underneath, unsupported. This is where I used the two rubber spacers that came with a butyl ribbon kit.
This also allowed me to lower the glass down slightly bottom edge first, resting the edge on the wide center stop, and lower it very slightly bottom to top and the rubber spacers maintained height at the bottom. If you cut the tip of the caulk tube properly to produce a V shaped bead about 3/4 in tall then you'll have plenty height and it only takes a little pressure to press the glass down to where you need it. Of course you don't want the glass to touch the stainless trim flange shown in my pics. You want the top surface of the glass level with it. Look closely at the pics. If you get it too low in a spot press up from underneath to level it back up and stick a spacer under the very edge to hold it there until it cures. PM me if you like.
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Old 04-04-2015, 12:13 AM   #189
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Damn, I feel like mine is set to low. There is a gap between the windshield and the trim. May have to try and pull it.
Nice work Bill.
Thanks Pops,
How much gap do you have between your glass and trim at the top?

Richard, how did your windshield come out? Nice I'll bet! You going to post pics?

I got the side trims and weatherstrips all done, now modding the shifter to fit under the console plate.
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Old 04-04-2015, 03:27 PM   #190
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I'll have to measure it. Good info on your write up. Wife and kids at the Vette Museum last couple of days. Assembly plant tour etc..Just looking at your pics mine is to low. I got all the chrome back and did some rough fitting and there's gonna be issues. I'll have to try and pull the new one without breaking which will likely break. Hence the term "rookie" in my build thread.
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Old 04-04-2015, 03:57 PM   #191
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Thanks Pops,

Richard, how did your windshield come out? Nice I'll bet! You going to post pics?
.
I have my helper this evening- so I hope to have it in tonight.

Will post it up...busy w/ work but have been ordering more parts!!!
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Old 04-04-2015, 05:27 PM   #192
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Binx,
My local glass guys and vintage car restorers advised me not to use the butyl spacers in the urethane bead. The only spacers I used were at the bottom of the glass where it drops down towards the wiper motor (not in the urethane bead). That part extends down past the lower bead and has a gap underneath, unsupported. This is where I used the two rubber spacers that came with a butyl ribbon kit.
This also allowed me to lower the glass down slightly bottom edge first, resting the edge on the wide center stop, and lower it very slightly bottom to top and the rubber spacers maintained height at the bottom. If you cut the tip of the caulk tube properly to produce a V shaped bead about 3/4 in tall then you'll have plenty height and it only takes a little pressure to press the glass down to where you need it. Of course you don't want the glass to touch the stainless trim flange shown in my pics. You want the top surface of the glass level with it. Look closely at the pics. If you get it too low in a spot press up from underneath to level it back up and stick a spacer under the very edge to hold it there until it cures. PM me if you like.
Noted. Seeing as If I'm all into pre-positioning as much as possible to keep 'ol Murphy in check, what do you think of my squeezing out inch long x 3/4" high strips of urethane in three evenly spaced sections along the top, bottom and sides, positioning the windshield correctly on it, letting it cure, then separating the glass away from it using a sharp-edged round cornered spatula I made out of stainless steel shim stock. (It's what I previously used to take out the windshield) Those urethane strips adhered to the windshield frame would then be my height "guide", followed by squeezing out a urethane bead all the way around the perimeter and dabs of it on the "guides" on the final install.

My only concern then would be if uncured urethane sticks well to cured urethane.

I don't mind at all jumping through hoops and over hurdles to get the job done correctly on the first try, especially if it saves me a whole lot of grief that usually comes unexpectedly, too far into the install to back out of it gracefully and at the worst possible moment.
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Old 04-04-2015, 10:44 PM   #193
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Binx, I think you'd do a lot better to run a full bead on the glass and set it in one operation. It's really not that bad once you have it prepped. Even easier if you have a second pair of hands to place the glass. I did it alone and it wasn't too bad. Once the bead is on the glass it's only two or three minutes till you're standing there looking at it in place!

Also, once you set the glass on the car, the bead will make contact all the way around. Then if you press the glass down or press it upward, the bead will just stretch in the gap and stay adhered. So you can move the glass after it's initially in place. You have about a five to ten minute window before it sets up, mine was actually about 15 to 20 min. Soon as you set the glass and see that the top edge is close, snap the chrome trim in place and then you can see if the glass needs to go higher or lower.
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Old 04-05-2015, 03:50 AM   #194
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Quote:
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Binx, I think you'd do a lot better to run a full bead on the glass and set it in one operation. It's really not that bad once you have it prepped. Even easier if you have a second pair of hands to place the glass. I did it alone and it wasn't too bad. Once the bead is on the glass it's only two or three minutes till you're standing there looking at it in place!

Also, once you set the glass on the car, the bead will make contact all the way around. Then if you press the glass down or press it upward, the bead will just stretch in the gap and stay adhered. So you can move the glass after it's initially in place. You have about a five to ten minute window before it sets up, mine was actually about 15 to 20 min. Soon as you set the glass and see that the top edge is close, snap the chrome trim in place and then you can see if the glass needs to go higher or lower.
OK, ya talked me into it. Today I wire wheeled all of the corrosion and old adhesive from the windshield frame and tomorrow I'll be repairing the holes the rust termites ate out of it. Top left corner of the frame had a 1"x 1 1/4" blowhole that's repairable and only a small hole in the weld joint on the bottom right side. POR15 to follow inside and outside of the frame followed by POR15 semi-gloss black top coat.

Glass is on order, so hopefully in a couple of weeks at most I'll have a nice clean windshield to grin through.
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Old 04-05-2015, 12:09 PM   #195
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More pics, a post trim

Just thought I'd post a couple pics of the a post weather strip holder. I cleaned them up and replaced the blow out clip (CC I think) with new rivets that worked fine.

IMG_1902 by slofut1, on Flickr

I used bits from a butyl windshield kit to seal, took pieces and stretched them thin, to the thickness I wanted and sealed across the top edge and just a small strip down the center to keep from buzzing.

IMG_1901 by slofut1, on Flickr

Same sealant at the top of the reveal trim.

IMG_1898 by slofut1, on Flickr


IMG_1902 by slofut1, on Flickr
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