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Old 08-18-2013, 11:54 AM   #76
riggs 74
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It's coming along nicely, it is all the little details that make the swap take forever, but it's well worth the time spent.

A quick thought on the AC box, I believe you will have a clearance issue with the box being too big and hitting the valve cover if not also the head. I trimed mine down as an AC delete box, and it still had a tight fit with the valve cover. I hope it clears for you.

How soon will you be dropping the engine in?

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Old 08-18-2013, 08:21 PM   #77
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Quote:
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It's coming along nicely, it is all the little details that make the swap take forever, but it's well worth the time spent.
A quick thought on the AC box, I believe you will have a clearance issue with the box being too big and hitting the valve cover if not also the head. I trimed mine down as an AC delete box, and it still had a tight fit with the valve cover. I hope it clears for you.
How soon will you be dropping the engine in?
Riggs
Geez Riggs, really? I haven't heard anyone mention that problem. Really is the last thing I need though. Did you have to delete the AC? Or how did you trim the box down? Did your motor mounts possibly put the motor further back or something?
Damn, I'm worried now...

It'll be a few weeks yet before I get the motor in. Still need to get the AC evap plumbed, brake master on and plumbed, vacuum ball mounted, headlights in and wiper door in and electrics done. Then maybe I'm almost ready to start in that direction.
Thanks much for the heads up! I'd much rather know something like this in advance.
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:31 PM   #78
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I rebuilt my stock air box. Then I put the body on the rolling chassis. Then I realized that I could not put the air box back on the car with the motor in. I took off the headers and tried different stuff but no go.
Then after all of that I went with a vintage air setup and it did not matter anyway.
Seems all of these builds are different so YMMV, but keep that in mind later on.
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:39 PM   #79
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I just looked at mine to verify what I wrote. The heads and valve cover are close, but it's the headers that wouldn't clear at the rear header port leaving the cyclinder head. If you are running cast iron manifolds, it might be fine, but very close.
I just remember the AC box being a clearance issues. My motor is also set back one inch, if yours is not, this my eliminate this issues for you.
I hope I'm wrong and it works out for you.

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Old 08-18-2013, 08:42 PM   #80
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Worst case you may have to cut the AC box and do a little fiberglass work to make it clear.


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Old 08-18-2013, 09:12 PM   #81
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Worst case you may have to cut the AC box and do a little fiberglass work to make it clear.
Riggs
Thanks Riggs. I'll use factory manifolds if I have to. Joshs mounts.
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:18 PM   #82
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I rebuilt my stock air box. Then I put the body on the rolling chassis. Then I realized that I could not put the air box back on the car with the motor in. I took off the headers and tried different stuff but no go.
Then after all of that I went with a vintage air setup and it did not matter anyway.
Seems all of these builds are different so YMMV, but keep that in mind later on.
Brent, that sounds like some of my luck. Did the vintage air evap box bolt to the firewall like original?
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:33 PM   #83
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No, that is one of the reasons I wanted to use the system. It really cleans up the engine bay.
I don't have a good picture of mine now that it is almost done but here it is earlier.


You may be fine fitting your stuff in there. Just keep it in mind.
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:54 PM   #84
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I don't know how I did it Slofut, but I have missed your thread somehow. I started at the beginning so i'm all caught up. Looking really good. I bought LC for my build but have not used it yet. I don't like what it did to your firewall and was wanting your opinion. Could the LC be sprayed inside the firewall and have the same heat barrier effects. I want a very smooth finish on the outside of my firewall. Thanks and i'll be tuning inMark
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Old 08-19-2013, 06:13 AM   #85
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I don't know how I did it Slofut, but I have missed your thread somehow. I started at the beginning so i'm all caught up. Looking really good. I bought LC for my build but have not used it yet. I don't like what it did to your firewall and was wanting your opinion. Could the LC be sprayed inside the firewall and have the same heat barrier effects. I want a very smooth finish on the outside of my firewall. Thanks and i'll be tuning inMark
Hey mark,
The Lizard Skin can be sprayed on the inside no problem and I suspect with the same thermal results so yes, that's definitely what I'd do. Also, if you're going to paint your firewall black, I would look into moisture cured urethanes (MCU) or AG111 for durability. They are resistant to fuels and solvents. So if you use spray carb cleaner to clean something under the hood and it get's on the firewall, you won't have ugly stains or even tracks of removed paint. I had a newly powdercoated front suspension part in my hands the other day and used spray carb cleaner to clean out a threaded hole. A trickle of carb cleaner ran down the painted surface and dissolved the finish with it!
This won't happen with mcu's or ag111. You can wash these paints with carb cleaner and they don't dissolve.
Bill
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:25 AM   #86
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more progress pics, front brakes

Don't you love to open a new box of goodies...



It's things like this that take soooo much time. Dad had already spent an hour or so cleaning the hubs of grease. I spent another hour on each one getting them clean enough for paint, then put in the new races, and painted 'em. Again using MCU (kbs blacktop) because you always end up using some solvent when repacking bearings, this stuff doesn't dissolve with brake cleaner.









And the car finally has front feet again!






These are gonna require some nice wheels...
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:44 AM   #87
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Nice!
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:03 AM   #88
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Project Update pics...

Haven't posted in a while but I've been working on the car almost every day getting an hour or so some days maybe 4 hours some days, I'm sure everybody can relate. Also, you wouldn't think it would be that hard to get pics along the way, but when you're buried in a project for hours and trying to get a problem solved, it's hard to interrupt your train of thought and start taking pics. Also, if I interrupt my train, it can be hard to get it back on track sometimes ...ADD you know .

Anyway,
I got the headlight doors working! Very cool! Props to everyone here to contributed to this mod.



I had to egg the hole on the crank to get about 3/16 more stroke, after trying for a couple hours to adjust the limits and make it work it was obvious it needed a bit bore stroke. Five minutes with a round file and it works like a charm with adjustment to spare! Mounted 4 relays on the upper crossbar so they'd be accessible with the hood open. Relays are for motors, angel eyes, hi and low beams.



Ended up mounting the motors inboard on the brackets just in case clearance would be an issue with the AC condenser.



Started out using this power post on the wheel well for a place to connect all the power leads that normally connect to the horn relay. After I got it mounted and a couple things attached, I realized the two posts aren't common! dammit!



So back to the drawing board, and I needed fuses anyway. So I found this, it has a neg buss bar with screws on one end, and a pos buss with 6 fuses on the other, and with a hinged removable cover. I think it's going to work ok.





In the mean time, I got a new camaro oil pan, and josh's motor mounts, I'm working on getting the wiring logistics up front worked out, and hopefully next week I can call the front electrical finished up and can move on to another area to get closer to putting the motor in! Wait, gotta get the A/C in first... danggit.

Need to address the wiper motor question. I opened the gearbox, cleaned and greased everything put it back together with a couple new bits and tested it. Works fine but the washer motor is missing. It has a handful of wires that I wish I could simplify and I remember someone posted that they used a later model motor that required only a couple wires? Any ideas?
Bill
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Old 06-01-2014, 07:48 AM   #89
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New pics, doors etc...

WOw, I didn't realize it had been this long since I posted any updates. Still have a transmission issue, so while I'm dealing with that I'm on to getting the interior done.
I wanted to get the carpet and door panels in but of course I prob should trim the door jambs first as I wouldn't want to get overspray on the new carpet or dash. So that leads to wait, this window is really sloppy and won't go all the way up... rebuild window regulator, hell now the door is apart may as well take it off to do a good job...





Uncovered this! It was painted red. A little finesse with a putty knife got the red off, took pics and carefully removed it although it's not good enough to go back on. I wonder if I could have another made just like it?




I do like the way that clutch pedal looks down there! No more autobox!



New paint!






Last edited by slofut; 06-01-2014 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:09 AM   #90
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Also fitted C5 seats

It was obvious the legs were going to have to come off so I drilled out the rivets and removed them, and trimmed the stops (thanks to somebody who already posted this bit). Pretty easy and straightforward.












I didn't mind drilling holes to bolt them down, I'll use stainless steel plates underneath to reinforce. Now that I realize how thin the floor is, I wish I had put metal floor pans underneath like the later cars!



I wanted them as flat on the floor as possible without rebuilding the floors, so I clearanced this one spot.









They bolt in quite nicely and all electrics work, I plan to slip in some seat heaters later!



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