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Old 01-09-2018, 10:57 PM   #76
Maniacmechanic1
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Very Nice Work by You.

After all the LS Swaps No one has built a Cowl Induction Or True Ram Air Layout with Rain water drains to pull cool outside air in through the Hood on a C3.

Fab not from Plastic but Sheet metal Aluminum & sheet metal brake & TIG weld together.

I can see a friend of mine doing it.
Ed.
He has done lots of one of Race Car fabrication the last couple of years.
Boost & Turbo cars his specialty.
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Old 01-10-2018, 12:52 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueday View Post
I ended up not liking how it fit around the passenger side radiator bracket/clamp and modifying it some. Played around with plastic welding methods and sectioned the plastic tray to fit with the factory c3 radiator bracket. I also welded some plastic tabs on the sides to mount the tray. The bottom lip where it sits in front of the radiator was awkward so I trimmed it up and bent it back some. The the passenger side bracket got modified some to pull it in away from the vararam tray and addressed my fan mounting too. I'll clean up and paint the tray and work on sealing it more to the hood when I'm done with the swap.

I also soldered up the aluminum maf mount to the 4" tubing and painted which finishes up my cold air intake side of things. Onto wiring!
Glad I found this, as I plan to do an LS swap on my 78. In doing my due diligence, I've seen many intakes with an elbow to a K&N cone type filter. Is there a reason you didn't go that route? I know you didn't like the filter down in front.
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Old 01-30-2018, 10:52 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingkohlmn View Post
Glad I found this, as I plan to do an LS swap on my 78. In doing my due diligence, I've seen many intakes with an elbow to a K&N cone type filter. Is there a reason you didn't go that route? I know you didn't like the filter down in front.
I had a few reasons not to do the 90. Mainly I was worried about engine heat. If I went on the drivers side it was right above the radiator hose. Either way I didn't see many options to get cold air into either side and didn't not want to deal with building a box to keep hot air out (not much room for a box either).
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:18 AM   #79
Maniacmechanic1
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I think I could build something Very Nice with bud Ed.
We would need a C3 with an LS engine swap already done.
Make Templates.
Aluminum Sheetmetal Fab.
Put a Defusser - rain water drain in like the old Ram Air GTO's & 1st & 2nd Ram Air 400's 1st gen birds had.
2nd Gen Formula Birds had the best Ram Air Layout 1970-1975.

NASCAR Built Very Nice Air Boxes.
Seen a few for sale time to time.
Baseline of my ideas.
Not easy to build gotta have the right shop tool gear.

Not many C3 LS swaps around here.
A ton of C4 Corvettes running around Joliet. Has to be close to 100.
C5-C7 at least 10,000 cars.
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Old 02-04-2018, 10:20 PM   #80
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Yes sir the holley setup.
I've been following for some time, I'm working a similar swap LS3, 1981, Tremec 6 speed. Getting close to the point where I need to get the accessory drive brackets figured out. Believe I read that you are using the Holley brackets, does that include the bracket for the A/C compressor? Keep the updates coming, very helpful!

Does your car have the drivers side power seat? If so, I'd be interested in how you routed the exhaust (drivers side) around the seat pan. On my 81 the seat pan is considerably lower than the pass side. Or did you go with side exhaust?

Your build looks very good BTW
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Old 04-23-2018, 08:16 PM   #81
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The question came about the 90 deg and the cone filter. First up, there isn't a lot of options in this department.
I, too, had my filter set up like that until....
.... I learned that drawing hot air into the airstream is unbelievably unproductive, and is performed in a manner where you don't even know something is amiss....until you connect HP Tuners and realize when your IAT's hit around 130 deg.
When that happens your PCM starts pulling timing, seemlessly, in the background, without your permission or asking you if it's OK.
Don't laugh too hard, because on a hot Oklahoma summer day, if you think your underhood air temp won't exceed 130 deg, your sadly mistaken.
Will the engine still run? Sure will. It will still run OK, but you might be pulling an easy 6 to 10 deg or more of timing and do so when you need it most, in the background, whenever those temps exceed the setpoint.
Took me a year of jacking around to figure this one out, and my solution wasn't cheap, as both the radiator, condenser as well as the intercooler radiator had to be shrunk down horizontally. It still isn't perfect, but Im never more than 8 to 10 degrees above ambient now, unless of course I have a smile. If I'm smiling, I'm probably under 14 psi boost...
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Old 05-17-2018, 12:12 PM   #82
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I wish I had more of an update. Life's been busy with work mostly, I did buy a new truck though.

I reworked my center console plate for my screen and gauges with a thicker plate since I bought a bandsaw with a bimetallic blade. I finally got around to my speedo/tach cluster and added in the fuel gauge, check engine light along with some blinkers and bright indications. I'm currently reworking some of my prior wiring (you know, while I'm there sort of thing) and wiring in the new engine harness with the factory stuff. Time consuming to keep it clean and professional looking and to do it right without.

Mechanically everything is set in place so once the wiring is done I have a bunch of small odds and ends and it should be ready to fire-up.

new pick-up:









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Old 05-24-2018, 12:15 PM   #83
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Quote:
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Yes it will. The picture below shows the opening between the core support and the top of the radiator. I have an L88 hood and the seal on top of the core support doesn't actually seal all the way up to the center part of the hood/scoop area. So I guess the air will travel over it too until I seal off either the box to hood or the radiator support to hood. You can see the scoop is just about on top of the filter too.

I'm not sure what my ecm will do with the maf being so close to the throttle body (doesn't meet the dimensions gm recommends). I guess we shall find out soon enough.
A couple of years ago I did a custom over the rad CAI similar to what your showing on my LS1/T56 swap which was done around 10 years ago. Many said I would have trouble with the short
dimension from filter to MAF - I kept an air straighter in front of the MAF and it runs great IMO. Air intake temps way down compared to 90 deg elbow and cone filter in engine compartment. Great looking job, I really like your center console also - on my list for future mods. Subscribed.

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Old 06-03-2018, 09:54 PM   #84
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Moving along....won't be long until it gets cranked up. Hopefully next weekend.

I got around to mounting the gas pedal. Offset of this was opposite of the stock pedal and longer. I ended up just cutting out 2 16ga steel plates (the single plate would flex a bit so i doubled it). Used some of the stock pedal mounting holes and added some at the top. This is the last mock up, it'll get painted and go back in. The gas pedal looks like it sits a little further back then the brake but they are even. I guess it's the pic. I also got around to clearancing (dinging) my headers. They just barely touched to bottom of the frame on the passenger side and top of the steering box on the driver side. Plenty of room now.







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Old 06-10-2018, 08:06 PM   #85
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Fired it up today. Fought with a broken off header bolt Friday when i clearancing the headers. It began to get the best of me but I showed it what was up.

On with the show.....its a healthy sounding little cam.




Ryan
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Old 06-11-2018, 07:57 AM   #86
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Congrats man... Sounds great, I wish my build was at that stage.
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Old 06-11-2018, 03:28 PM   #87
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sounds vicious!
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Old 06-12-2018, 11:54 PM   #88
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....sweet music...!
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Old 06-13-2018, 05:04 PM   #89
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Congrats! Long time coming
Sounds killer!
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Old 06-17-2018, 10:52 PM   #90
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Thanks guys. Wish i had the time to build an ls, but man the crate motor route seemed way too easy. I kept feeling like i was forgetting something before i turned the key.

So far no issues with wiring and it seems to act as it should. I'll be getting the driveshaft sent off and shortened soon and some new u joints. Shouldn't be long after that it'll be back on the ground.
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