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Old 09-29-2007, 02:15 PM   #16
69vettester
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Great Post...Thats the most decent write up Ive ever seen about it. I bet You could get it published in the Hot rod chevy Magazines, that cover the old vettes.

Its one of the only areas I couldnt do when I started getting my 69 up to snuff with new engine and drive train. Not enough tools or Experience, so I took the car into a good shop and they did the whole thing for $500. Yikes, but that was 5yrs ,100k mi. and all's still well.
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69 vette roadster. Hooker sidemounts, 450hp 383 roller engine BG speed demon 750 carb, Msd pro billit Dist, 6a Spark module, Richmond 6spTrans, Dewitts Radiator .
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Old 09-29-2007, 02:50 PM   #17
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Thumbs up!

Great write up as usual Gary
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Old 09-29-2007, 03:37 PM   #18
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Great pictures and write up. I once heard of a guys spindle snapping off because the bearings were shot. When the wheel separated, it took out most of his quarter pannel. That and the fact that I dont have the right tools is why I wont do this job.
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Old 09-29-2007, 09:49 PM   #19
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Spindle Support....is This Any Good Or Is It A Boat Anchor???

Gary,

You are thorough, precise and detailed in your approach to this work!!

I've not forgotten your offer to do my arms. You know I'm just a little "distracted" right now.

Can you determine from these photos whether this part is worth saving or should I just put it out to the street for scrap?





Thanks Gary!

Regards,

Jim
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Old 09-30-2007, 09:07 AM   #20
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Hi Jim,

I fully understand your current concerns outside of vettes. You are still in my thoughts.

I can't see if there is a problem with those supports. Usually they are ok unless damaged by someone with a hammer taking them apart. The one that I have now with those siezed bearings is still good. The bore does have some scoring but a new race still fit tight and I'll use loctite on the race OD as well.

Gary
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Old 10-01-2007, 12:32 PM   #21
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Hi Gary,

great write-up with good pics !!!

One thing I found difficult and confusing when I
took this job on myself was installation of the outer
seal. Maybe I was just making it more difficult, but:

IO recall that I had to loosly place the outer seal over the spindle
before pressing on the outer bearing. Then, after placing in the
housing and pressing the inner bearing onto the spindle, the seal
needs to be worked into the housing. I recall doing this with some
large screwdrivers ... slowly working around the seal to seat it.

Is there a better/easier way ? Special tool you made to install outer seal ?

also,
Where did you get that kick-ass bearing separater ? Homemade ??


Oh ... reminder for anyone trying this to make sure the shields are
one correctly before pressing on the inner bearing .... had to take
mine apart and together twice (one side).


-Dave
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Old 10-01-2007, 04:13 PM   #22
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Hi Dave,
Actually this post is part of the sticky post above- rear suspension/diff, I just add to them as new things come along I can take pictures of.

I have assembled them like you did but don't do them that way anymore. I assmeble the arm and PB then grease and install the outer brg and seal.
Then press the brg on the spindle on the press. Makes it a lot easier. This is done after the brg's have already been fit on the setup tool.
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Old 10-12-2007, 11:22 AM   #23
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Good write up on building the bearing assemblies but I feel you let a lot of info out. I just scrolled through it but I didn't see the following info.

What the actual bearing surface diameter on the spindle is supposed to be. If someone has undersized or oversized bearing surfaces, wouldn't that account for something?

You didn't state how to check it a t-arm, caliper mounting bracket or bearing support for straightness. Since you rebuild these for people you should know well enough that many t-arms are bent and also caliper mounting brackets. You just said look the t-arm over for rot or bent. What are the specs of the t-arms and caliper mounting brackets and how can the DIY guy fix it?

If someone goes through all that work to build the bearings but leave out the rest, thats like building 1/2 the puzzle. Bent t-arms will lead to bad alignments. Bent caliper mounting brackets increases the likelyhood of low brake pedal. It can also cock a piston in the caliper.

Don't you feel all of this should be mentioned as part of the rebuild? Your kind of harsh on other rebuilders. Many have been doing this for a long time. Maching parts for the rebuild is nothing new. Just feels like you invented the maching aspect of it all and taking the credit. Take a look at most of the corvette warehouses and rebuilders. Many have been doing this type of stuff since the 70's. I'm mean no disrepect to you but this write up is only 1/2 of the project.

Last edited by 80VetteGuy; 10-12-2007 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 10-12-2007, 12:00 PM   #24
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Harsh on rebuilders? That's interesting. If holding others up to the job is being harsh, too bad. I supplied this post, as well as others, to give people the awareness of how the job should be done. No I didn't invent any of this nor did I ever say I did. I've been in corvette shops and have yet to see any machine tools in them. One shop even told me they use special bearings, which were the German equvilant to Timken's. I choose to use USA bearings.
Also I've never seen one rebuilder say they use a surface grinder. Will not using one affect the overall quality of the job? I think so but that's my opinion.

What I have done was to rework some of the jobs being offered by some of the other rebuilders out there. Have I ever posted on a vendor in particular? No. Are all the same - no. I will put my work up against anyones out there.

I have never seen one other rebuilder out there post full procedures for any of this work- why is that?

You have questioned my posts in the past as well, yet I don't know who you are. Are you involved in the business, work for a vendor?

You are certainly welcome to question my work but as I have said in the past the things I post are the procedures that have worked for me. Does it mean everyone should follow them, no not at all. They are an option for guys who want to know more about something. Do other rebuilders care if I post this info, I really don't know or care if they do. There is no secret to this work but there is a lot of bad work out there.

So, since you are experienced and seem to question my work I'll ask you to step up and answer those questions you posted about. Add in some pictures as well as I'm sure I'm not the only one interested.

If you had personal question to ask you could have PM'd me as many do, but you chose to post in public so I do have to question your motives.

So lets see your work. I'll be more then happy to see others post procedures on this subject or others I've worked on.
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Old 10-12-2007, 01:45 PM   #25
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I would say no vendor post pics of the rebuilding process b/c they obviously want the customer to send their parts in. Seems like a no brainer to me. Maybe the shop with the German bearings didn't want to give you info. People snoop around a lot and try to find things out and go off and do them on their own. Why do race teams keep their secrets to themselves. So no one else will do what they do. Every rebuilding does it their own way and some may have a trick or 2 that you don't know about. Thats why they don't post pics.

I don't know what shops or rebuilders you have been to that do rebuild bearings, nor do I care. And no, you never mentioned any names. I bet if you did and they were a member of this or that forum they would reply. As you can see on the side bar, there are no vendors that rebuild these on this site.

I have been to a corvette rebuilders shop and have seen surface grinders. But if a shop uses new shims, what would they need a surface grinder for? They are already premeasured. Than your reply is, what if it's not the right size shims in the kit. My reply is, get a block of wood and some sand paper and take a thou or 2 off. Simple as that. Or take it to a mchine shop and have them take off whatever you need.

I would also catagorize a shop and a rebuilder as 2 different people. A shop could be any ole garage while a rebuilder does this for a living. So which have you been to?

No need to take it to PM b/c everyone should know that there is more to trailing arms than your write up. Wouldn't you agree?

No problem on answering my questions to you.

For trailing arms all you have to do is get a straight end and ruler. Place your straight edge from where the bearing support goes into the to t-arm, out to the bushing. Take your ruler and measure the distance from the arm to the straight edge. You will measure just in front of the bushing. When you find your distance you will know if your arm is bent or not. Can you fill in the blank on how many inches? A qualified rebuilder would have a jig. Thats just a home remidy.

To check a caliper mounting bracket you need a jig. I see no other way around it. Measuring it with a mic or ruler won't work. When I built mine, I made it off of a new caliper mounting bracket. I see no jig in any of your posts. So how do you check them or are you checking them?

I don't do this on a regular basis so I have nothing to take pics of and post. I have done quite a few in the past though, I have personally owned 36 and just sold my 80. I farmed some out and rebuilt my own. When I worked on others cars I farmed them out for warranty purposes.

If your rebuilding all of these for people and making a profit than why aren't you a vendor here or at the other place? Hell you would be the only C2 C3 vendor here. Why are you getting offsensive when your work is questioned? Your that good and thorough you shouldn't have any problem asnwering these questions on the spot. You should be giving the people the full scoop. Not putting a tire on a rim with no air and telling them to drive safe.
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Old 10-12-2007, 02:32 PM   #26
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Let's remember to keep the discussion civil.

If there's questions about the rebuild process, then ask, debate and discuss. The more facts, info and sound advice, the better.

But we're not going to dive into personal attacks and assumptions.

Back to the C3 talk.
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Old 10-12-2007, 02:41 PM   #27
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Gary, for whatever it's worth please don't let this antagonism stop you from posting your proceedures here!! I used your threads to set up my trailing arms and rotors too! The directions are straightforward and allowed me to not only save money but also have the satisfaction of doing yet another process myself. My car tracks perfectly and I have great brake pedal with the near perfect runout I achieved using your posts. Thank you and again---PLEASE DON'T STOP. Art
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Old 10-12-2007, 02:51 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Jett View Post
Gary, for whatever it's worth please don't let this antagonism stop you from posting your proceedures here!! I used your threads to set up my trailing arms and rotors too! The directions are straightforward and allowed me to not only save money but also have the satisfaction of doing yet another process myself. My car tracks perfectly and I have great brake pedal with the near perfect runout I achieved using your posts. Thank you and again---PLEASE DON'T STOP. Art
I second that!
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All Righty Then

Aim above morality. Be not simply good, be good for something, and ask yourself two questions:

1. Have you felt and known joy in your life
2. Have you given joy to someone else ....

Tell everyone about your car!

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Old 10-12-2007, 03:17 PM   #29
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Some people just don't play well with others.

I'm sure I'm not alone in saying that Gary's posts are more than just informative; they give many of us the incentive to learn more about our cars by tackling more complex jobs. I'm a hobbyist and a somewhat experienced mechanic.......but Corvetts are new to me. I certainly appreciate someone who is generous enough to share his knowledge.....especially at the level of detail these posts get into........about Corvette specific components and assemblies.

All new information contributes to the overall knowledge base here. The negative posts and any "information" in them are quickly forgotton.

Thanks Gary.
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Old 10-12-2007, 03:46 PM   #30
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I'm not saying that his post are not good. Just about all of them are. I just felt that this one was left short. If you guys are going to do this on your own, you need to know everything and so should that the guy rebuilding it.
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