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Old 10-20-2007, 10:56 PM   #46
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I think I missed the pictures of the tooling to replace the forward T/A bushings. All the front end bushings are on the winter "to-do" list, so I may as well go ahead and catch the T/A's. I know they need to be pressed together and then flared. Got Pics??

Thanks Gary, these threads about the T/A's and the like are good. I spent lots of years working in Chevy dealers, but some of this stuff never showed up. If it had, i'd have stolen the tooling when I left the dealer..
I don't even recall some of the dealers having the tooling for this stuff. Maybe someone got to it before I did??

I did get into a few steering boxes- one service manager and I got toe to toe over one. It was leaking , he wanted me to reseal it and I told him it wasn't going to happen. He got mad and started yelling- until I pointed out that it was a school bus. All he knew was "truck". He calmed right down and ordered a new complete unit.

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Old 10-21-2007, 08:32 AM   #47
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Hi Tim,
I took some steel plates, milled them square. Tapped center holes and 2 hold down holes. I use old SBC head bolts as hold down bolts. I used a large cap screw, 7/8 or 1" - I'd have to check to see. Turned a 45* angle on it to flare the sleeve. The lower plate hole didn't work out as I liked so I welded on a solid plate. Then I center and compress the bushings. Tighen the cap screw and use a pipe for leverage to flare it. I grind the side flat afterwards. Look over the sleeves you get these days. Many I see are cracked from the first flaring. I've seen assembled arms for sale at Carlisle with these cracked flares as well. The tool picture below is the first design and the hold screws were too small to work, the head bolts work much better and you probably have some in the garage.










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Old 10-21-2007, 11:09 PM   #48
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Thanks.. What is the dimension from side to side? Or how much do they get squeezed? And I'm guessing the sleeves come with one flare already done. Correct?

I can build a couple of plates- yours look like about 3/4" thick x 3x4?
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Old 10-22-2007, 08:07 AM   #49
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I'm out of the shop today but any thick steel plate will work. The overall dimensions aren't important as long you have area to support the arm 6" x 3" will work. Yes the bushing sleeves come with one end flared. I compress them until the rubber is about the same diameter as the steel washer.
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Old 11-20-2007, 09:39 AM   #50
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This something that I might have overlooked because I thought it would be a typical thing a rebuilder would do. Always check the fit of the mounting bolt in new bushings. It should slide in without any problem. Once in a while the inner ID crimps or has a burr so you may have to run a drill down it. Check this now instead of when installing in the car. There is a current post now where this was a problem with a rebuilders job.

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Old 11-20-2007, 10:05 PM   #51
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Great write up Gary. I've always appreciated the help you gave me personally when I did my rear bearings. If there's ever a way I can return the favor it would be a pleasure.

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Old 11-26-2007, 11:30 AM   #52
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Tim,
The outer dimension of the compressed bushings is 2.25 . If you make a tool like Gary's get two pieces of tubing to slide over the bolts that are 2.25 long. Then tighten the bolts and flare the sleeve. Here is a great flaring tool:
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Old 11-26-2007, 11:33 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracdogg2 View Post
Tim,
The outer dimension of the compressed bushings is 2.25 . If you make a tool like Gary's get two pieces of tubing to slide over the bolts that are 2.25 long. Then tighten the bolts and flare the sleeve. Here is a great flaring tool:
That looks like a rivet set- .401 shank with a flat end for the rivet. Use in a rivet gun/air chisel? Or use the shank and beat it with a hammer/press? Great idea about the tube over the bolts- keeps things aligned and repeatable.

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Old 11-26-2007, 11:48 AM   #54
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Yep, it's a standard hammer head with a .401 shank. Make the hole in the top of your bushing tool just large enough for the bit to go thru. Use a press to flare the sleeve.
One thing I forgot to mention. All the sleeves for the bushings are too long. They must be cut down before you compress them. I can get you bushings with the correct length sleeves reay to install if you need them.
Mike
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Old 11-26-2007, 11:58 AM   #55
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Mike
That does look pretty good and would save someone a lot of time building one like I did.
Have you found the flared ends of the sleeve cracked as well?
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Old 11-26-2007, 12:54 PM   #56
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Hi Gary,
Yes I have seen a lot of them cracked. There is no quality control on them. I have to hand pick all the ones I buy and then machine the sleeves to fit right.
Mike
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Old 11-26-2007, 01:13 PM   #57
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Maybe I should get some tube and make my own up. I have some here to cover 4 arms but that's about it. The last time I ordered some they were about 50% bad,
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Old 12-15-2007, 05:40 PM   #58
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Great Post. I am attempting my first Trailing arm rebuild. Great idea on grinding the spacers, had one new and one old spacer... both were out about .002. One question... when checking end play should tool be torqed to 100lbs or just tight? does it matter? Anyone
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Old 12-15-2007, 08:53 PM   #59
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Yes, every time you check the endplay you need to torque the assembly.
On the trailing arm bushing one end of the tube is flared. Stick the tube thru the washer. The flared end will not be flush with the washer. Grind the flare until it is flush. The tube will also be too long. After grinding the flare measure exactly 2.250 and cut the excess off. Now the tube will fit properly after you compress the bushings.
Mike
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:23 AM   #60
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Removing Bearing from Spindle

Howdy Gary,

Q1: I've begun my TA rebuild project. I've got the arms off and spindle out on the driver side. My toolkit I bought for this job a while back includes many things, but doesn't seem to include tool J-8433-1. Is there some other procedure for pulling the outer bearing off the spindle or am I missing something?

I do have this tool.


Arm 1 so far:


Q2: One of my first DIY projects was fixing the parking brakes. In getting things apart, I inadvertently drilled well into the part of the spindle where the studs mount to. Are the spindles balanced to such a degree that I should consider replacing them, or is this removal of material not such a big deal?
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