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Old 06-12-2019, 07:30 AM   #31
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Yep, mine has the twin turbo six
the 2009 535 and 535 wagon both used the new N55 turbo charged 6 cylinder...if memory serves me correctly. The main difference between the N55 and the N54 it was phasing out was the use of a single twin scroll turbo (fed by two separate exhaust intakes) instead of two smaller single scroll turbos used in the N54. BMW kept the "twin power turber" moniker even though it was a single turbo. Pray you have the N55 and not the N54....when the turbo ultimately bows up, and it will, there will be much less cost replacing a single turbo.

the N63 4.4L uses the two separate turbo set up and in my opinion is a step below the naturally aspirated 4.4L in my 2008 750. I'm sticking with 6 cylinder BMW motors moving forward simply because the turbo setup on the 8 cylinders creates so much heat in the V that it is destined to fail. I have had one failure already at about 88k miles..... have 113k now and just waiting for the next huge repair.
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:53 AM   #32
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Pray you have the N55 and not the N54..
Got the N54. The turbos do not look like a fun thing to change. It looks like you'd have to drop....well, ...the whole car. well, at least the whole front subframe.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:32 AM   #33
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The Honda S2000 engine always amazed me. 120 Horsepower per liter naturally aspirated. No one had done that before. It has a 9000 RPM rev limit and came with a factory warranty. That was nearly 20 years ago. They are very reliable engines.

That's called engineering.
One of my favorite cars I've had is my 1997 Honda Accord. It was on its way to a junkyard when I got it and I did everything to this car. I got a powertrain that honda had raced a road course with. The direct predecessor to the engine you are talking about. The F20B that was used in a limited production run of the Accord Euro R had a +8,000rpm redline and the 5 speed FWD transmission had LSD. Viscous LSD. It is hard to find anything but a one wheel wonder in a FWD application. The motor made 110hp/L and was the buildup to honda setting the world record for highest hp/L ratio at 120. I Loved slowing down with the clutch as I approached a turn in that car. So I installed 95A urethane solid motor and trans mounts. And I got a set of the AEM true Time cam gears and retarded the intake cam 2 degrees and advanced the exhaust cam 1 degree and that motor did ok over 6k rpm.

Sadly I was doing all this at the start of my job here and as I am holding up my large bore 70mm throttle body to show to my boss, he is handing me a Nick Williams 102mm throttle body for me to go install on a ls2 powered Corvette. High hp/L is awesome. Except when you only got 2.0L

Last edited by autowiz; 06-12-2019 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:46 PM   #34
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One of my favorite cars I've had is my 1997 Honda Accord. It was on its way to a junkyard when I got it and I did everything to this car. I got a powertrain that honda had raced a road course with. The direct predecessor to the engine you are talking about. The F20B that was used in a limited production run of the Accord Euro R had a +8,000rpm redline and the 5 speed FWD transmission had LSD. Viscous LSD. It is hard to find anything but a one wheel wonder in a FWD application. The motor made 110hp/L and was the buildup to honda setting the world record for highest hp/L ratio at 120. I Loved slowing down with the clutch as I approached a turn in that car. So I installed 95A urethane solid motor and trans mounts. And I got a set of the AEM true Time cam gears and retarded the intake cam 2 degrees and advanced the exhaust cam 1 degree and that motor did ok over 6k rpm.

Sadly I was doing all this at the start of my job here and as I am holding up my large bore 70mm throttle body to show to my boss, he is handing me a Nick Williams 102mm throttle body for me to go install on a ls2 powered Corvette. High hp/L is awesome. Except when you only got 2.0L
Nothing wrong with a Honda engine.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:51 PM   #35
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Got the N54. The turbos do not look like a fun thing to change. It looks like you'd have to drop....well, ...the whole car. well, at least the whole front subframe.
You use a engine cradle trans cradle holding fixture topside.
Can buy or build your own from square stock or round tubing. Weld it together.
Drop the cradle down. Near all like that today.

Chrysler mini vans I would drop the engine and Trans with cradle as 1 piece unit.
Setup jackstands. Raise the car lift with body.

Could be done same way Euro.
Alot easier. All in open to work on.
Takes less time often.

Change an engine out in a Dodge 3 hrs that way.
Running in 6-8 hrs.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:02 PM   #36
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You use a engine cradle trans cradle holding fixture topside.
Of course you can. Been there, done that, got the refrigerator magnet and the t-shirt. This one says that you're supposed to leave the engine in the car and remove the sub-frame only. Hopefully I've got a ton of miles before I have to do that. Let's not put the cart before the horse.

There's a lot of engineering in this engine. I don't think it even needs a throttle body.....but it has one. The intake valves have adjustable lift. They open from .003" @ idle to about .500 inches @ 7000 RPM. The valves can nearly close all the way and with the direct injection there is no need for a TB. Kinda cool. Variable valve timing and variable lift with direct injection. Not bad for 10 year old tech. And the headrests are electric.

There's a lot of parts to break on this car. It's a 535i Sportwagon. I hope the German engineers were on their game.

This is the twin turbo that I spoke about in an earlier thread. Y'all just assumed I was talking about the Impala.
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Old 06-13-2019, 05:00 AM   #37
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Of course you can. Been there, done that, got the refrigerator magnet and the t-shirt. This one says that you're supposed to leave the engine in the car and remove the sub-frame only. Hopefully I've got a ton of miles before I have to do that. Let's not put the cart before the horse.

There's a lot of engineering in this engine. I don't think it even needs a throttle body.....but it has one. The intake valves have adjustable lift. They open from .003" @ idle to about .500 inches @ 7000 RPM. The valves can nearly close all the way and with the direct injection there is no need for a TB. Kinda cool. Variable valve timing and variable lift with direct injection. Not bad for 10 year old tech. And the headrests are electric.

There's a lot of parts to break on this car. It's a 535i Sportwagon. I hope the German engineers were on their game.

This is the twin turbo that I spoke about in an earlier thread. Y'all just assumed I was talking about the Impala.
It all works Ok as long as no parts failures or black box electronic failures.
Alot of those BMW's specified a High End oil of 10w60 Full Synthetic.

Known as Super Car Oil.
Read up on its good stuff.
Not easy to find local here.
Castrol sells it. Found it on Amazon. Want to buy 12 quarts and try it out.
Royal Purple also makes 10w60 in their XPR Race oil line only.
Don't buy R.P. from Amazon the supplier(s) all miss box what you want bought.
I went through buying & returning Royal Purple 20w50 XPR Race oil for the Trans Am later this year.
3 times they sent me everything under the sun but XPR 20W50...Its Required needed for +500 Nitrous Power Adder.
Thin oil will not hold the Film strength, seen it happen to others racing.
3rd time I made an order to Summit Racing. Got my R.P. XPR 20w50 no issues.


20W50 Kendell GT Competition Dino Oil is working great in the 87 Corvette also the 63 Grand Prix with 425 Olds Super Rocket V8 Power.
Had the GP out last night running in the rain 100 mph testing tuning the accelerator pump fine tune.
2 days ago I was dragging racing it hard.
Manual shifting the TH400 at 6000 -6500 rpms.
Running like a 369 ci SBC 3-9/16" stroke crank 14.0:1 compression dirt track engine.
Instant rpm windup...So Nice & Fun Gunny.
Ran up & down in front of the Farmhouse like 20 times blowing by 120 +.
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Old 06-13-2019, 06:10 AM   #38
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20W50 Kendell GT Competition Dino Oil is working great in the 87 Corvette also the 63 Grand Prix with 425 Olds Super Rocket V8 Power.

They will like 10w30 better. I know you don't understand that the pressure sensor is measuring pressure in the oil gallery in the block and not on the bearing surfaces. If you would just hold a bearing in your hand you could see how small that orifice is for the oil to pass through. This hole does not open up based on wear. Nor is it a variable thing that can open to allow the thicker oil to flow. You are starving your engine for oil and the higher pressure you observe is the surplus of oil that is no longer making it to the bearings.


755hp LT5 corvette runs 5w30 motor oil. with all that load of the belt driven power adder. 650hp LT4 has already seen 100,00k miles and more just like this. You gotta look at the passages for the oil to pass through with the simple understanding that thicker oil needs larger orifices to pass the same volume.
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Old 06-13-2019, 06:13 AM   #39
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1987 Ford EXP

This may sound lame, but I really wish I had kept my Red 2 door, 2 seat 1987 Ford Escort EXP.
With its 1.9L Fuel Injected HO motor and 5 speed manual trans, she was really fun to drive.

Today I am still seeking an affordable 2 door economy car. I'd like to stick with the "big 3", but they mostly only offer C/SUV's.
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Old 06-13-2019, 07:40 AM   #40
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This may sound lame, but I really wish I had kept my Red 2 door, 2 seat 1987 Ford Escort EXP.
With its 1.9L Fuel Injected HO motor and 5 speed manual trans, she was really fun to drive.

Today I am still seeking an affordable 2 door economy car. I'd like to stick with the "big 3", but they mostly only offer C/SUV's.
Nothing lame about that. The EXP was a one of a kind car with a distinctive look to it.
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Old 06-14-2019, 07:02 AM   #41
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They will like 10w30 better. I know you don't understand that the pressure sensor is measuring pressure in the oil gallery in the block and not on the bearing surfaces. If you would just hold a bearing in your hand you could see how small that orifice is for the oil to pass through. This hole does not open up based on wear. Nor is it a variable thing that can open to allow the thicker oil to flow. You are starving your engine for oil and the higher pressure you observe is the surplus of oil that is no longer making it to the bearings.


755hp LT5 corvette runs 5w30 motor oil. with all that load of the belt driven power adder. 650hp LT4 has already seen 100,00k miles and more just like this. You gotta look at the passages for the oil to pass through with the simple understanding that thicker oil needs larger orifices to pass the same volume.
Have to pick your poison as I say.
I did a ton of research this past winter & posted on Grumpys.
Without a Sonny Bryant 300 M Billet Top Fuel Crankshaft or Crower 4340 Billet crank or similar your going to see crankshaft deflection under real high HP Torque loads surpassing 900-1000 HP mark at the flywheel.
There is no second chance.


You choose wrong its Kaboom.


I have factory service manuals dating back to 1959.
None are posted online the Build specs running clearances & factory specified oil viscosity.
Despite what we hear LS was not the 1st tight running clearance engine.
It was the Oldsmobile V8 1949 303.


Have more to post on my thread on Grumpys.
Forgot to do it.
Factory spec oil viscosity Musclecar era.
20w specified Hot summertime driving. 20w50 was not invented till 1971 or later.
Pontiac recommended 10w40 or straight 30w Day 1 in all high performance engines hot weather driving.
All built to last 100,000 miles with a carburetor.
All tight clearance engines .
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Old 06-14-2019, 10:44 AM   #42
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Have to pick your poison as I say.
This is not a thing of opinions. This is very much an exact science. We change oil viscosity based on the climate we live in so the oil isn't too thick to pass out to the bearings when cold. With that one exception any changes we make to the manufacturers suggestions are bad for the motor.

Like the manufacturer knew best what was good for the engines they designed. Much better than you or grumpy or anybody that did not design the engines that you are talking about.

It is sheer ignorance that people stuff such thick oil in their crankcases without any consideration to how thick that oil is before it warms up and how you are starving the engine of oil until the oil warms up enough for good volumes to pass through the tiny orifices. You need to start doing your research in better places.

Like SHOPKEYPRO or MITCHELL or ALLDATA or even IDENTIFIX. or anywhere that is known true information. The whole of the internet is generally accepted as the polar opposite of that.
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Old 06-14-2019, 02:08 PM   #43
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This is not a thing of opinions. This is very much an exact science. We change oil viscosity based on the climate we live in so the oil isn't too thick to pass out to the bearings when cold. With that one exception any changes we make to the manufacturers suggestions are bad for the motor.

Like the manufacturer knew best what was good for the engines they designed. Much better than you or grumpy or anybody that did not design the engines that you are talking about.

It is sheer ignorance that people stuff such thick oil in their crankcases without any consideration to how thick that oil is before it warms up and how you are starving the engine of oil until the oil warms up enough for good volumes to pass through the tiny orifices. You need to start doing your research in better places.

Like SHOPKEYPRO or MITCHELL or ALLDATA or even IDENTIFIX. or anywhere that is known true information. The whole of the internet is generally accepted as the polar opposite of that.
Everything is application specific.
What Gunny is doing Building TT SS For Road Race Fun and what I am doing are 2 different objective goals.
What you do daily drive a short distance in city traffic at slow speeds and never exceed 80 mph is another with A/C on with your LCD Computer screen to play with on your C5.

3 different engine families.
Gunny SBC LT1 LT4 .
You LS3 B8.
Me Pontiac V8 455.

Grumpy knows his shit.
He has been around longer than me.
I share my findings with him weekly. At times daily.
He shares what he knows with me and everyone else on his site.
One member swears by 20w50 Vavoline VR1 Race oil in SBC Supercharged Weilend Roots blown Square body 4x4 mud race truck.
Not a single person argued what works for him with oil including Grumpy.

Top Fuel uses Straight 70 w oil.

I can assure you no one On Street Outlaws 405 uses 5w30 oil.
The rest of No Prep Drag Race world either.
Thicker viscosity oil.
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Old 06-14-2019, 04:42 PM   #44
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What you do....
What I do is work on and with these engines every day of my life, buddy. And maintain a well funded knowledge you wish you had. What you do is spend an entire lifetime trying to get one set of rods right. You know it pisses me off when you try to belittle me or say I am less than I am. I am the ONLY ONE on all of this forum going to the track and posting up timeslips in recent days, months, or years even. And from multiple cars I have built. You need to stop the berating before the bombs start dropping again, boy.
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Old 06-14-2019, 07:33 PM   #45
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What I do is work on and with these engines every day of my life, buddy. And maintain a well funded knowledge you wish you had. What you do is spend an entire lifetime trying to get one set of rods right. You know it pisses me off when you try to belittle me or say I am less than I am. I am the ONLY ONE on all of this forum going to the track and posting up timeslips in recent days, months, or years even. And from multiple cars I have built. You need to stop the berating before the bombs start dropping again, boy.




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