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Old 07-18-2007, 07:15 PM   #16
eilax53
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Old 07-18-2007, 07:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMikeyT88 View Post
Cool! Now you can do mine
Sure no problem, as long as you let me drive that 383 monster
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Mods: Ceasefire is no more...LS1 clone on the way! | 3.73 gears | Cross drilled-Slotted rotors | 18x10 out back & 17x9 up front | Headers | highflow CAT | 2.5" custom exhaust no mufflers

Check out my LS1 engine build thread HERE

SAVE THE WAVE
Pictures ------ More Pictures
Lots of donuts in the SNOW!!
Old 07-18-2007, 08:09 PM   #18
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Sure no problem, as long as you let me drive that 383 monster
Done! You got your plane ticket yet?
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1999 Torch Red FRC 6 speed, MGW Shifter, C5Z Exhaust, Vararam. 13.10 @ 109

2005-A4 Vararam Intake, and a tune by Jeremy Formato 353RWHP and 354RWTQ
1/4 12.70 @ 110

1984-383ci,Cast Iron Bowtie Block bored to 4.190in. Stock GM crank, PM rods, Mini Ram III Intake, Fastburn Heads,Hot Cam, Richmond Six Speed, Stage 1 clutch, TPIS Headers, 58mm TB, 27lb Injectors, ZR1 Wheels, 315's out back, 275's in front, High Flow Cat, 3.73's,Bilstein Shocks, Tuned by Jeremy Formato, 340RWHP and 350RWTQ

1.73/12.622/109.90
 
Old 08-31-2007, 10:50 PM   #19
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Sorry Charlie but your spring is probably going to rub on the frame now. You can't cut the wedges down that much, they're barely tall enough as is, of course they will squish a bit after install. They rub because the top of the spring channel isn't flat.

I also ended up using shortened aluminum brackets because the steel even with rubber inserts didn't hold the spring snugly. I think the shifting caused it to tear the wedges off, and the garbage 3M weather adhesive didn't help much either. That stuff is worthless.

Did you reuse the aluminum shims or toss them?


You can see inboard of the mount where it was rubbing against the frame:


http://webpages.charter.net/khasting.../lowering.html
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Old 10-04-2007, 10:08 PM   #20
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Yeah I see your problem, I wonder why that happened? I kept the little thin metal shim in there, and everything is holding up great with no evidence of rubbing yet. The rubber I used to insert into the brackets is real heavy duty stuff and is keeping everything snugly where it belongs.

best of luck
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Mods: Ceasefire is no more...LS1 clone on the way! | 3.73 gears | Cross drilled-Slotted rotors | 18x10 out back & 17x9 up front | Headers | highflow CAT | 2.5" custom exhaust no mufflers

Check out my LS1 engine build thread HERE

SAVE THE WAVE
Pictures ------ More Pictures
Lots of donuts in the SNOW!!
Old 01-02-2008, 04:46 PM   #21
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Awesome!

I agree with the others on this. Very clear and concice. I have done the rear on my '87 and will use your article when I tackle the front.

THX
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Old 05-11-2008, 06:50 AM   #22
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Hey guys

Just want to show you what I have done and maybe get some responce. I concentrate one the front in this post since the rear raises no questions for me

Lowering, without wedges


All jacked up


Needs a wash, need to take that later :P


Took the spring out like it says earlier in this thread






Bended out the metal plate


Then i started with the saw and the lub oil, cant be done without the lub oil!!!








Then I decided to take out this one with the same approache




Left the shim in there to protect my frame


After
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Old 05-11-2008, 09:28 AM   #23
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Looks great, Nice job

I like those wheels too, who makes them?
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Mods: Ceasefire is no more...LS1 clone on the way! | 3.73 gears | Cross drilled-Slotted rotors | 18x10 out back & 17x9 up front | Headers | highflow CAT | 2.5" custom exhaust no mufflers

Check out my LS1 engine build thread HERE

SAVE THE WAVE
Pictures ------ More Pictures
Lots of donuts in the SNOW!!
Old 05-11-2008, 11:58 AM   #24
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Those are camaro wheels, they look good on there.

Great job on the lowering. Def adds a clean stance.
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Old 05-11-2008, 01:26 PM   #25
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awesome write up,, as soon as i get her back from the shop i'll have to make this the next project.... took a min for it to set in as the difference between pics
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:47 PM   #26
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good thread with great pix. i also sanded down my wedges.....but i only did one side...passenger side. most c4's that i have seen or been around usally are bout 3/16 to 1/4 lower on the drivers side for some reason. the only other thing i did was take a grinder and grind off the old rubber till it was almost down to the spring but do not grind the spring and took a razor blade and finished scraping the rubber off so i could get a super clean surface to bond the new wedge to. i wound up at 25 3/4 from the ground to the highest part of the arch on the wheel well. i have noticed that goin lower tha 26 1/4 the sterring starts getting stiffer!!!!!! if i lower another car it will be with qa1's
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:55 PM   #27
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I sooooo wish I could go lower with my car but I already hit my intercooler piping. When I get around to redesigning the intercooler and bringing the pipe over the rad. I'll slam that sucker. Looks great.
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Sampson 9/22/97-1/1/05
Old 05-12-2008, 07:57 PM   #28
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Quote:
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I sooooo wish I could go lower with my car but I already hit my intercooler piping. When I get around to redesigning the intercooler and bringing the pipe over the rad. I'll slam that sucker. Looks great.
got beer??????????
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Old 05-12-2008, 10:44 PM   #29
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I removed my rubber mounts with a chisel. One came out easy, the other I used everything from flat screwdriver to dremel and drill.







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Old 05-13-2008, 04:25 AM   #30
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As you can see in my earlier post I used a regular wood saw to cut mine. But as I said you have to use oil or else it seems impossible. I sawed my rubber mounts in half in under a minute using the saw and some oil.



I did not use the wedges

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