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Old 03-13-2018, 08:10 PM   #31
zimmej51
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Vintage Air Front Runner

After a lot of head scratching I finally gritted my teeth and went with the Vintage Air Front Runner setup. It seems to have one of the most compact systems. One thing of note however, the troublesome heater hose outlets are about 1/4" LOWER than the stock water pump from my donor car, 2010 SS Camaro. I will tap the small hole and use an Earls AN connection. I will tap and plug the large hole, weld a boss onto the bottom of the casting and tap/thread for the fitting. Everything else looks like it will clear with ease. This is just a dry fit, that's why the pwr steering pump pulley isn't pressed on to it's final location.
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Old 03-15-2018, 06:50 AM   #32
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Hey, what upper a-arms have you got there? BTW... on the bottom heater hose fitting, since it has to be a right angle, make sure it's tight and leak free. It's a pain to tighten once on the car. Ask me how I know...
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Old 03-16-2018, 08:24 PM   #33
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Hey, what upper a-arms have you got there? BTW... on the bottom heater hose fitting, since it has to be a right angle, make sure it's tight and leak free. It's a pain to tighten once on the car. Ask me how I know...
The upper A-arms are from Speed Direct. I also got the Steeriods from them. I'm also thinking that I'll probably wind up with their lower control arms with coil overs before it's all over. But I thought I'd wait and see how the ride height turns out. The lower control arm swap shouldn't be that hard with everything all assembled. I can imagine that the fitting moved to the bottom of the water pump thermostat would be a pain to get to. I'm planning to use a 90 NPT to AN fitting. Also fabricating a boss to weld onto the bottom of the housing to ensure enough material to get good thread engagement. Would love to hear any experiences you have had with that arrangement!
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Old 03-16-2018, 08:32 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by zimmej51 View Post
The upper A-arms are from Speed Direct. I also got the Steeriods from them. I'm also thinking that I'll probably wind up with their lower control arms with coil overs before it's all over. But I thought I'd wait and see how the ride height turns out. The lower control arm swap shouldn't be that hard with everything all assembled. I can imagine that the fitting moved to the bottom of the water pump thermostat would be a pain to get to. I'm planning to use a 90 NPT to AN fitting. Also fabricating a boss to weld onto the bottom of the housing to ensure enough material to get good thread engagement. Would love to hear any experiences you have had with that arrangement!
I did a quick browse of your build link, will look at it closer when I get a little more time. I see you are one of the many victims of the Photobucket Hi-Jack. Too bad, would sure like to see the pictures. Also, I noticed that back in 2013 you had a headlight vacuum hose kit that you weren't going to use. Just wondering if you might still have it by chance?
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Old 03-19-2018, 07:20 PM   #35
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EVAP System Advice

Seeking advice. I'm at the stage where I'm firming up my choice of ECM. I already have a new fuel tank/pump system from Vetteworks but I'm wondering about the EVAP system. At the moment my favored plan is to use the GM Performance ECM kit, but in studying the I/O I'm not seeing any provision for a signal to purge the EVAP system like on the stock system. Looking for recommendations here from those of you that have done a similar swap. The options I have range from eliminating the EVAP system altogether to a fully functioning system like a stock system. Will appreciate input!
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Old 09-18-2018, 06:53 PM   #36
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Greetings all, sorry I dropped out of sight last May. I had to stop my project and fight leukemia. I'm doing better now and have started getting back out to the shop from time to time. My 81 C3 has been patiently waiting! Not sure where I left off, and have forgotten how I was posting images. Will figure that out and post some pics of what I have done. Glad to be back!
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Old 09-18-2018, 08:55 PM   #37
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81 Resto Mod back in progress

The significant things I've done since getting back in the shop are the mods to the Vintage Air water pump and the hydraulic clutch. I drilled and welded a "bung" on the bottom of the thermostat housing and plugged the original return hole. The output hole was drilled and tapped. Both will now accommodate NPT to AN fittings with plenty of clearance. Since the hydraulic clutch mounts to the firewall under the brake booster I was concerned about the fiberglass firewall flexing. I made a template out of paper for a reinforcement that will transfer the load up to the pedal frame assembly. Will make it out of 12 ga steel plate.



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Old 09-23-2018, 08:50 PM   #38
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Hydraulic Clutch Conversion

With a hydraulic clutch I got to worrying about the fiberglass firewall flexing since it now has to absorb the clutch pedal pressure. I made a reinforcement plate (12 ga) that transfers the load to the pedal cage assy. I also made a mount for the master cylinder that uses the original hole in the firewall. The pushrod is a mockup but works so well I may just use it instead of having one machined. A 5/16" rod bearing end fits perfectly on the factory pin on the clutch pedal arm. Very smooth, no weird angles, no binding. Broke it down for powder coat tomorrow.




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Old 09-25-2018, 08:35 PM   #39
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Vintage Air Front Runner Installed

Got the installation of the Vintage Air Front Runner setup done tonight. Went with Vintage air because it's compact, easy, and appears to be high quality.





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Old 09-26-2018, 06:25 AM   #40
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Looking really good Man !
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Old 11-06-2018, 03:06 PM   #41
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Great build. Lots of thinking outside the box.


Love the lift adapters.

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Old 11-10-2018, 08:00 PM   #42
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Stainless Tubing Finished

Finally got all the "plumbing" completed. I've always kind of enjoyed fabricating brake/fuel lines but this one was probably the hardest one I've done so far! Did a lot of this while I was on chemotherapy so it took a lot longer than normal. BTW the stainless clamps are from Kugel Komponents. They come with self tapping screws or the pan head 10-32 screws that I used. I also used Marson Klik Rivet nuts.

















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Old 11-17-2018, 08:41 PM   #43
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Man that looks very nice and clean.....too bad it'll be mostly covered up. Hope you're feeling better after the chemo.

Ryan
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Old 12-03-2018, 07:04 PM   #44
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Everything looks great! I am about at the same stage you are on my '81 with a body-off resto going on. My LS3 shows up the at the end of this week. I am trying to figure out the front accessory setup and the fuel line stuff as well. How hard was it to work with the stainless fuel tubing? I love the look of the vintage air front runner but not sure I can stomach the price tag. Keep the pics and info coming.
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Old 12-10-2018, 11:39 PM   #45
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Goldata81 great to from someone else working on an 81 C3! I didn't find the stainless to be all that much harder than regular steel lines, both fuel and brake. But it can be challenging. Having a good bender is a definite requirement, those cheapo ones will not work well with stainless. I did a lot of research on accessory drives, including filtering out many recommendations that obviously couldn't work. Lot of information out there that is dead ass wrong. Since I was going with a Vintage Air setup I finally just gritted my teeth and bought the Front Runner. Ouch! But I don't regret it, it's probably the most compact one out there and the quality is superb. I'm currently in the process of fitting the Vintage Air evaporator so I'll keep a video record of what I did. The folks at VA were most helpful. They took a Sure Fit setup designed for the C3 up through 1976 and worked with me to substitute some of the parts that won't work on the 77 and up C3's. I would be very happy to share anything that might help, there are several pitfalls coming your way with the LS3! I will share what I know and I don't make things up. If I don't know about something I will say so! I hate all the bogus information out there (not on this forum though). My goal is to help so ask away!
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