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Old 08-01-2016, 07:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autowiz View Post
Am I seeing that right, Patro? Sticker with colors aside are those 5 identical 6p connectors on the module? so like you could plug them in wrong if you wanted to or if the sticker faded or got wet and came off or the color on the sheathing faded over time.

Yep, haha, just like the idiot that designed the standard car battery's terminals and cables, in almost every car on the planet, and all they did was mark with color and a near impossible to read raised emblem with a plus or minus. Man I don't know how anyone EVER gets those on right. BWAHAHAHAHA.
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:10 PM   #17
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Yep, haha, just like the idiot that designed the standard car battery's terminals and cables, in almost every car on the planet, and all they did was mark with color and a near impossible to read raised emblem with a plus or minus. Man I don't know how anyone EVER gets those on right. BWAHAHAHAHA.
I just thought yellow and orange were close in color is all
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:22 AM   #18
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Yea, that is a small consideration though.
If you were troubleshooting later down the road and had to plug those in and out with it under the dash, it wouldn't be hard to plug one in wrong. I'm sure I could do it. Certainly not a deal killer though.
I wonder if CA has guarded against that, maybe a diode or two, or pinouts that wouldn't cause failure if plugged in wrong? Most factory bits in this situation would have indexing of some sort. I realize they're on a small scale and have to use universal parts in this case. Prob have warnings on the instructions not to plug things in wrong. Not to make a big deal of this by any means, ocd kicking in ...just sayin'
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Old 08-03-2016, 04:50 PM   #19
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Yea, that is a small consideration though.
If you were troubleshooting later down the road and had to plug those in and out with it under the dash, it wouldn't be hard to plug one in wrong. I'm sure I could do it. Certainly not a deal killer though.
I wonder if CA has guarded against that, maybe a diode or two, or pinouts that wouldn't cause failure if plugged in wrong? Most factory bits in this situation would have indexing of some sort. I realize they're on a small scale and have to use universal parts in this case. Prob have warnings on the instructions not to plug things in wrong. Not to make a big deal of this by any means, ocd kicking in ...just sayin'
If I am correct they will all be going to different servos so even if plugged in wrong it would just bring you to where you adjust the temperature and it would maybe switch from center vent to defrost or something. But I would imagine or at least hope that all powers would go into the same pin on all plugs and grounds the same so there wouldn't be any catastrophic failure. you are right, slofut. I am splitting hairs.
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:25 PM   #20
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I haven't even begun. Yes, I believe we can get the evap housing out without engine removal. The interior kit, with the updated electronic C3 control was right at $960 delivered.
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:02 AM   #21
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Patro46, watching intently on your install. My prior view on the two evaporator units comparison was probably a toss-up but one thing I do like about the Vintage Air system is the condenser and mounting brackets. The VA looks much more professional - the Classic Auto Air looks to be a "homer" (not that there's anything wrong with that). I do need to do a more detailed look at the controller options between the two though.

I assume there would be nothing that would stop someone from picking the CAA evap but going VA for the condenser/dryer package (assuming you need custom hoses anyway).
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:10 PM   #22
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I can't answer the parasitic draw question, but I assume that since he programmed it with a 12 volt source that is not in the car, then disconnected that source and put the system back in the box, that the system uses non volatile memory. Correct me if I'm wrong Patro. BTW, I've enjoyed following your progress!
I was thinking that as well...the Vintage is NOT non-volitile and has several wires connected to the battery- I haven't confirmed it- but read that 150mA was NORMAL draw...way too much in my book.

Here's the Vintage Air electrical- look several wires wired hot...

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Old 08-07-2016, 10:26 AM   #23
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Indeed.

I wonder why there is no system for 77-82? From either company. Aren't there a ton of those years out there in the wild?
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:27 PM   #24
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but read that 150mA was NORMAL draw
Where exactly did you read this? I have never encountered a draw issue. I have never heard of a draw issue And I have seen, personally installed so many. This is a bizarre claim to me.
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:29 PM   #25
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Where exactly did you read this? I have never encountered a draw issue. I have never heard of a draw issue And I have seen, personally installed so many. This is a bizarre claim to me.
On that "other" forum-

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...ntage-air.html

"This morning I called Vintage Air Tech and was informed a 150 milliamp draw is normal and is needed for the presets."

I'm going to be running Vintage Air as well-already bought it. I am going to change the "factory" wiring-and will relay the constant hot wires- plus have a delay so the AC will turn on a few seconds after the engine is started ( spal cooling fans as well).

Autowiz- You gotta look at the constant hot wires and say it could be done a better way....

Richard
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:55 PM   #26
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On that "other" forum-

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...ntage-air.html

"This morning I called Vintage Air Tech and was informed a 150 milliamp draw is normal and is needed for the presets."

I'm going to be running Vintage Air as well-already bought it. I am going to change the "factory" wiring-and will relay the constant hot wires- plus have a delay so the AC will turn on a few seconds after the engine is started ( spal cooling fans as well).

Autowiz- You gotta look at the constant hot wires and say it could be done a better way....

Richard
I will explore this. I will put a meter on a few cars at work and report back exact draw on the constant hot wires.
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:31 PM   #27
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I will explore this before I say anything else. I will put a meter on a few cars at work and report back exact draw on the constant hot wires. So far as I always knew it the vintage air wanted clean power direct from battery for the controller that is using logic and counting steps instead of the old analog pots and rheostats used in the other guys feedback actuators. And running everything for the a/c through the common 30amp breaker was a neat clean way of doing that. I might be mistaken on that, though. I will put my ammeter on a few installs at work and report back.
I totally get where you are coming from... you don't have to tell me how good a battery filters- Just look at how I wired my car!!!

But it also makes sense to have a small "memory" wire like say a newer "ETR" or digital radio has and POWER for the ECU wired to a "built-in" relay ( say a Bosch type as part of the harness) ignition controlled- wired to the battery- also for the blower and the water control valve that does not need constant power and will not be used w/o the ignition on.

I gotta say- I do like the non-volatile memory the new Classic Air has.....

Richard
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:36 AM   #28
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Without over complicating something that doesn't require it, lets keep things in perspective.
First off, the far biggest plus from both Vintage and Classic is the fact that both have moved the evaporator inside the cabin where it belongs. They also both have eliminated the outside air issue. They also both have dealt with the heater core issue.

I chose the Classic, not based upon a stepper motor or some Star Wars gadgetry, but the fact it offered a seperate heater core and evaporator core. I also liked the straight through air flow design, but most of all, I REALLY like the improved HVAC controller, something Vintage apparently can't touch.
Once I officially begin the jnstall, I'll document the factory AC blower cfm before removing it(this will be with the C4 blower mod) then Ill do the same with the Classic Air unit. I anticipate a notable improvement.
Refrigerant metering. Both systems utilize a TXV valve for refrigerant metering
Cooling capacity. Just like attempting to condition an area with poor insulation, our C3s are right up this alley, even with improved insulation. When this happens, we increase system capacity. Though I've not dissected a Vintage Air unit, I'm told by those that have the Classic Air evaporator not only improves capacity over the factory evaporator, but has more capacity than the Vintage Air unit.
When I add up the advantages it seems pretty clear for me. As far as performance goes, we'll just have to wait. I've always said the proof is in the pudding, so we'll just have to see how the cards fall
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Old 09-01-2016, 05:32 PM   #29
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Plese keep us informed

I plan on doing this mod over the winter .Last year I was going with the vintage air ,but, now really looking at classic air.
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:48 PM   #30
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I haven't even begun. Yes, I believe we can get the evap housing out without engine removal. The interior kit, with the updated electronic C3 control was right at $960 delivered.
Careful with that! 😉 I'll drive up and give you a hand if you want it.
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