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Old 02-23-2019, 06:07 AM   #16
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You're really moving.
Thank you. I am trying for all I am worth to get us back to the track a.s.a.p. and keep this racing thing from getting stale.
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Old 02-23-2019, 11:43 AM   #17
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We got started on the fuel supply modification. C5/C6 corvettes use 1 pump with a transfer jet system to handle fuel supply with 2 saddle tanks. Special care must be taken is upgrading this system to keep the proper functionality of the transfer jet. For this we will be working with only the LH side tank. Here is that tank removed from the car..



These cars are known for problems with the fuel sender creating vapor leaks and this car was suffering from that. Here we can see the cracks and all the moisture that has collected dirt from the fuel vapor escaping the tank over a period of time..



These are just plastic tanks and as such it is not uncommon to struggle to get the fuel sender out of the precisely sized hole that has changed dimensions slightly over the years. Sometimes the fuel sender must be broken down in the tank and then some wires attached to the bucket for extraction. Here is a helpful picture for any who dare change a fuel pump on a C6 Corvette..



We will be replacing this sender with a drop in unit from Lingenfelter..

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Old 02-23-2019, 12:04 PM   #18
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The Lingenfelter pump is nice because it uses a turbine style 450lph pump but the bottom of the bucket is still in tact and not butchered..



This is important for running the car at lower fuel levels as there is a one way valve at the bottom of the bucket that lets fuel in and not out. With the Lingenfelter solution we get to have a turbine fuel pump and still keep the correct factory intended functionality of our fuel system. There is just one thing I am not so happy with about this pump. And that is it uses the factory connector and pins..



High amp draw devices have a way of finding the weak link in an electrical chain. And speaking of links in a chain this pump has 2 connections inside the tank and 2 connections outside the tank just for power to make it to the pump. I feel a very strong need to upgrade the power and ground connections for this pump and this car. So I will eliminate and hardwire this connection from the pump to the sub harness inside the tank..



I drilled and tapped a hole in a carefully chosen location on the lid to accommodate a m6x1.0 bolt..



Then I attached a 12ga and a 16ga wire to a long bolt..



Then I take the 2 wires in the sub harness inside the tank, both power and ground..



I cut them and splice them together and connect them to the power wire for the pump..



Then I cut and splice both wires together in the sub harness outside the tank..



This will greatly strengthen the power and ground connection to this pump. Here is the fuel sender ready to go back in the tank..

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Old 02-23-2019, 12:08 PM   #19
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At the fuel pump connection in the main harness I will cut both wires a few inches back from the connector..



I will splice these wires together and with a 12ga wire and then add it to the main harness all the way back up to the underhood fuse box..



ground connections will be made to the frame rail at the tank so it is as short as possible. And the 12ga red wire will go to a relay, maxi fuse, and boost a pump.
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Old 02-23-2019, 12:58 PM   #20
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That's what I did on my Walbro pump. I ran a fused 10 gauge wire back to the tank and installed a relay back there to power the pump. I used the factory wiring to the pump to energize the 40 amp relay. Good catch.
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Old 02-26-2019, 10:34 AM   #21
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One last thing that we need to do with the gas tank before it can go back in the car is we need to change all the O-rings for the transfer tube..



With everything done and ready to go back in the car, here is our completed fuel tank capable of supplying ~800rwhp..



Here we are all mounted back in the car and before I put the inner fender liner back in place we can see my redundant and short ground wires..



Now with fuel supply out of the way I can turn my attention to setting up the intercooler at the nose of the car. The fascia needs to come off for this to happen. So here is that..

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Old 02-26-2019, 03:56 PM   #22
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The torque converter showed up so I can get the back half of the car together. We really like and have never had a problem with Florida Torque Converters. They are a great company and make an outstanding product or so has been all of our experiences with FTC..



The converter is 11" has a 2500rpm stall anti-ballooning billet front cover triple clutch and other good stuff inside. This awesome converter is gonna go on this here 6L80E transmission..



This 6L80E is a heavy duty truck transmission and with a small converter it is just a thing of beauty..







We did nothing else to this transmission to make it handle the power. Just a smaller converter. These transmissions are awesome once you get tuning them down. Here is the transmission and diff installed in the car..





And at the end of the day we have the rear sub frame and suspension bolted back in..

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Old 02-27-2019, 04:56 PM   #23
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So today started out with a problem..





Not only is there no movement or slack between the converter and it's drive plate but there is actually preload. This will not last and can not be run like this. FTC sent us a shipping label immediately upon us letting them know what we had and they will make a correction and get this awesome converter back to us. But for now The sub frame needs to come back off..



Then the diff..



Then the transmission..



Then the converter comes off and we are right back to waiting on a converter..

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Old 02-27-2019, 05:49 PM   #24
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So now we need to worry about other things until that part comes back. First up we spaced the power steering reservoir forward 1.25" so we could mount the throttle body upside down..



This modification includes a longer feed hose from the reservoir to the pump..



Unfortunately we are waiting for a green stripe belt before we can complete the front of the motor and get the radiator and condenser in. But that belt should be in tomorrow.
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Old 02-27-2019, 05:59 PM   #25
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We got started on the roll control a.k.a. line locs with a pair of these solenoids..



On the last car this motor was in I setup the line locs at the wheels. I really liked that setup and am going to recreate it here. So first I need to make a mirror image solenoid out of one of the 2 because I like symmetry..



Then I drill my holes and have 2 mirror image solenoids..



Now I need to mark off for 2 holes in the frame where I want to mount each solenoid. Drill holes and tap them to 1/4-20..



Then I mount each solenoid directly to the frame with two 1/4-20 x 3/4 bolts with lock washers..



And the other side..



From here I just need to make a few short but specific lines and mount a switch on the dash.
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Old 02-27-2019, 09:45 PM   #26
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Then I drill my holes and have 2 mirror image solenoids..
It's little details like this that make your work special. Well done.
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Old 02-28-2019, 05:01 AM   #27
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Autowiz - impressive stuff. For those of us Florida locals that might need assistance with our Corvette projects, what dealer do you work for?
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Old 02-28-2019, 06:13 AM   #28
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Autowiz - impressive stuff. For those of us Florida locals that might need assistance with our Corvette projects, what dealer do you work for?
http://www.corvette-performance-expert.com/



...I apologize for our old website. It is being revamped as we speak.
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Old 02-28-2019, 03:23 PM   #29
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So the roll control is waiting for fittings and brake lines to be finished. But the belt has shown up so we can get the front of the motor completed. First off I just want to say that we are very big fans of the green stripe belts..



The kit from A&A has both a mechanical and a spring loaded tensioner. First we will work with the mechanical tensioner..



I like to size the belt so the mechanical tensioner can be close to all the way tight on install as this gives the best belt wrap around the power adder..



Then once that is set we go to the front of the motor to the spring tensioner that is held open with a pin / bolt..



We simply pull the pin and release the spring tension on our tightened belt..



And now we can rest easy knowing that we have the full throw of the tensioner to take up slack as the belt grows under load. Anybody who has watched a spring tensioner unload during a dyno pull will get this. The belt stretches under load. Like elastic. Once the tension goes, the blower stops putting out. This is the golden standard that we should all be hunting down in our supercharger setups. Mechanical AND spring loaded together. Procharger also has this. Both are in the same tensioner.
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Old 02-28-2019, 03:59 PM   #30
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Next we need to get the radiator, condenser, and cooling fan installed. The radiator and condenser are new so there is no dirt, grass, gravel, or debris trapped in the core limiting airflow..



The C6 has just 1 cooling fan. It is a large brushless fan and is driven by a pwm circuit. so we can command the fan on in specific percentages instead of just on/off or low or high..



When these fans get run at 90% or better duty cycle for any length of time the connections get warm and expand. For some C6 cars I will just cut the plugs off and hardwire the fan controller right into the main harness. But I am going the extra mile here so things can come apart easier if they need to. I will add this connector to the one already in place..



I will splice this into the power and ground wires so as to increase the surface area of the connectors so they can handle a few more amps. Like this..



I do the same on the main harness side..



I am soldering these connections just to make sure everything lives a long happy life. This is after all the only cooling fan..



And here is the main harness all back together..



And here is the fan plugged in and ready for 90%+ duty cycle for as long as the ecu can dish out the 5v squarewave..

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