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Old 05-04-2018, 07:35 PM   #121
Maniacmechanic1
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I did some reading during lunch on 4L80e & 4L85e.
I recall on Grumpys place both are rated to 850 ft/lbs input torque stock.
I recall discussing with Grumpy.
The weak link would be the stock torque converter.
I dont think the Factory GM converter can hanle that.

It checks in at 268 lbs or so .
Interesting enough same website says a Turbo 400 weighs 135 lbs.
Lighter than a 4L60e or 700R4 is.

Its long been known in the drag race world a near stock TH 400 can handle 850-950 Ft/lbs flywheel torque and live a long time.
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Old 05-04-2018, 07:45 PM   #122
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I turned down alot of Racing sidework last year.
Ed had lined up for me.
1000 Hp Street Race cars.
Chicago guys.
Found out they had 10-bolt rears.
I told Ed Fuck no.
I want a Mark Williams Ford 9.
Or Dana 60.
Ed got mad at me.
Refused.
No it will blow up.

Others did it.
Guess what ? They Fucken Blew up.
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Old 05-04-2018, 08:26 PM   #123
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http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge...utomatic/th400

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge...utomatic/4l80e

A Good Overall Guideline.
I know most want Overdrive.

Pay no attention to the torque ratings.
They are wrong.
Find out the real scoop Its Grumpy's place & Yellow Bullet Drag racing.
Transmission 101 group on Facebook.
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Old 05-04-2018, 08:51 PM   #124
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It came in my New Hayden #679 Trans Cooler.
Made in South Korea.
Better than China.

Best I could find for the money for my 1999 Chevy Tahoe 4x4 with its 5.7 Gen 2 Vortech engine.

Love the Truck.
Hate that 4L60e.
A Money Pit.
At $1300.00 in new hard parts now total.


The Fucken 4L60E died in my 1994 GMC Suburban 4x4 too.
Mother Fucker.
I found a nice 4L80E with matching Transfer case from a 1992 Suburban with a 454 BBC.
Going to Buy that 4L80E & Heavy Duty New Process transfer Case.
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:02 PM   #125
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Covered on Grumpys site.
The Big Griffin Pro Series Radiator I bought.
And New Moroso Racing Trans Cooler with Aeroquip PTFE Lined stainless #6AN Braided hoses with matching special JIC AN Fittings for race PTFE Hose.
Over $800 spent there.
But the 63 GP Runs nice and cool now.
160 F driving.
180 F idling in the driveway 1 hour later.

Turbo 400 oil temps stay at 100-110 F steady even driving 120 mph.
Often do driving in to Joilet in the morning.
Average 90-110 mph for 70 miles.
Really do not Need Overdrive.
At Least I don't here.
Used a stand alone Cooler the Moroso.
She is a Bad Azz MOFO.
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:03 PM   #126
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I got the B15 mounted in the C5 today. It has an 8 bolt flange for the flexplate.
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:05 PM   #127
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I got the B15 mounted in the C5 today. It has an 8 bolt flange for the flexplate.
Nice.
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:06 PM   #128
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Here the motor is going in the car..
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:33 PM   #129
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Quote:
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Here the motor is going in the car..
It will be a nice runner.

Have to keep in mind converter ballooning.
It happens on High output Big Block Engines or Boosted LS Engines.

Takes a custom converter with a Billet Snout neck. Anti balloon plates front & back to prevent.
Ultra High Line pressures used makes it worse.
How many make a 4L60E hold some HP.
400 psi line pressure.

4L80E & TH400 trans you need just 150-180 psi line pressure.
Fictions & steels are Big. Way more surface area.

Converter balloons from internal pressure built up with High engine torque present. + High Line pressure added up.
Destroy any engine thrust bearing.

Seen it happen to a C5 LS3 in the Race shop.
Pulled the engine out.
Tore it down the same night.
A Big Mess inside.
A Nuke Bomb went off.
4L60E Trans.
East Coast Supercharged.
I recall 720 RWHP before it let go.
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Old 05-04-2018, 11:19 PM   #130
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Quote:
The thing about octane ratings is they change the tune requirements of your engine. to take a car that is setup to run 87, 89, or 93 and run it on just 106 is to force the motor to run retarded and as such rich. Octane slows down the combustion process. Higher octane is more of a controlled burn. So ignition timing needs to come up when it goes in.

Otherwise, you actually loose power going from the lower octane without tuning just because now the combustion is happening at a later rod angle. Race gas requires more timing for an improvement. If you would have just turned that distributor a touch you could have made all right.
I know that now. When I (My Dad) bought the 1967 Fairlane it was brand new. I was 20 years old and didn't know timing from sliming. As a poor, broke Marine all I wanted was some free gas. When I came back from overseas in 1969 I bought a brand new 1969 Charger R/T. Regular ole' 440-4bbl with the shifter on the column and a bench seat. The first thing I did was put on an Edelbrock manifold and a 1050 CFM Holley 3 barrel carb. No cam, headers, nada, zip. When that big barrel opened up the car would almost stop. Immediately way, way too lean. It didn't even have and accelerator pump on the third barrel.

I just thought more CFM equals more power. Ever heard the phrase "Young and dumb". That was me. Now I'm older but still dumb.

The day I put the 1050 on the Charger I got the distributor a tooth or two off. The car wouldn't start immediately and my friend kept cranking and pumping the gas as I was peering down the carb. I didn't know about such things. After about 5 minutes of cranking it finally fired and a ball of fire about as big as a beach ball flew out of the carb. The fireball hit the hood (no damage) rolled out the hood opening and chased me halfway down the block with my mustache smoking and my hair on fire. A sight to behold.

As we live......we learn.
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Old 05-04-2018, 11:45 PM   #131
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Quote:
Have to keep in mind converter ballooning.
It happens on High output Big Block Engines or Boosted LS Engines.

Takes a custom converter with a Billet Snout neck. Anti balloon plates front & back to prevent.
Ultra High Line pressures used makes it worse.
How many make a 4L60E hold some HP.
400 psi line pressure
Hey Brian, That's true.I have a 9 1/2" Vigilante converter and it has CNC'd billet anti-balooning plates. It is a 3600 stall give or take. My line pressure is 240 PSI and I've never had a tranny problem and it will put on a heck of a smoke show. I also have 9 clutches and kolene steels. The tranny build sheet says it has .030" clearance on the pack. The shifts are firm.......maybe a bit too much for street and strip. I took out a u-joint or two until I switched to the Spicer NON-greasable joint. They are just about perfect and can take a heck of a shock load. I guess that since they are not drilled out for greasing that there is more metal and less chance for breakage.

I don't think that 400 PSI is an option. That seems like a lot.
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Old 05-05-2018, 05:34 AM   #132
Maniacmechanic1
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Originally Posted by 1963SS View Post
I know that now. When I (My Dad) bought the 1967 Fairlane it was brand new. I was 20 years old and didn't know timing from sliming. As a poor, broke Marine all I wanted was some free gas. When I came back from overseas in 1969 I bought a brand new 1969 Charger R/T. Regular ole' 440-4bbl with the shifter on the column and a bench seat. The first thing I did was put on an Edelbrock manifold and a 1050 CFM Holley 3 barrel carb. No cam, headers, nada, zip. When that big barrel opened up the car would almost stop. Immediately way, way too lean. It didn't even have and accelerator pump on the third barrel.

I just thought more CFM equals more power. Ever heard the phrase "Young and dumb". That was me. Now I'm older but still dumb.

The day I put the 1050 on the Charger I got the distributor a tooth or two off. The car wouldn't start immediately and my friend kept cranking and pumping the gas as I was peering down the carb. I didn't know about such things. After about 5 minutes of cranking it finally fired and a ball of fire about as big as a beach ball flew out of the carb. The fireball hit the hood (no damage) rolled out the hood opening and chased me halfway down the block with my mustache smoking and my hair on fire. A sight to behold.

As we live......we learn.
Gunny is actually a Rocket Scientist with SBC Engines Wiz.
Made them all look like Fucken Retards on Corvette Forum.
The smartest guys there was Gunny.
Dave Dahlgren.
Myslef. Brian Reeland.
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Old 05-05-2018, 05:35 AM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1963SS View Post
I know that now. When I (My Dad) bought the 1967 Fairlane it was brand new. I was 20 years old and didn't know timing from sliming. As a poor, broke Marine all I wanted was some free gas. When I came back from overseas in 1969 I bought a brand new 1969 Charger R/T. Regular ole' 440-4bbl with the shifter on the column and a bench seat. The first thing I did was put on an Edelbrock manifold and a 1050 CFM Holley 3 barrel carb. No cam, headers, nada, zip. When that big barrel opened up the car would almost stop. Immediately way, way too lean. It didn't even have and accelerator pump on the third barrel.

I just thought more CFM equals more power. Ever heard the phrase "Young and dumb". That was me. Now I'm older but still dumb.

The day I put the 1050 on the Charger I got the distributor a tooth or two off. The car wouldn't start immediately and my friend kept cranking and pumping the gas as I was peering down the carb. I didn't know about such things. After about 5 minutes of cranking it finally fired and a ball of fire about as big as a beach ball flew out of the carb. The fireball hit the hood (no damage) rolled out the hood opening and chased me halfway down the block with my mustache smoking and my hair on fire. A sight to behold.

As we live......we learn.
You never have been a Carburetor Guy.
That is Ok.
Because I am yet.
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Old 05-05-2018, 05:47 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1963SS View Post
Hey Brian, That's true.I have a 9 1/2" Vigilante converter and it has CNC'd billet anti-balooning plates. It is a 3600 stall give or take. My line pressure is 240 PSI and I've never had a tranny problem and it will put on a heck of a smoke show. I also have 9 clutches and kolene steels. The tranny build sheet says it has .030" clearance on the pack. The shifts are firm.......maybe a bit too much for street and strip. I took out a u-joint or two until I switched to the Spicer NON-greasable joint. They are just about perfect and can take a heck of a shock load. I guess that since they are not drilled out for greasing that there is more metal and less chance for breakage.

I don't think that 400 PSI is an option. That seems like a lot.
I used Red Alto Eagle Frictions & Kolene Steels complete factory Alto Kit in the 1999 Tahoe 4L60E I finished building this week. Molded apply pistons supplied.
All clearances checked Good.
9 frictions in the 3-4. Checked at .030" too.
In the Corvette, its been going since 2010 now since I built that 700R4 I used another guys Alto Red Eagle Kit & Kolene steels.
He used .106 steels. 7 count frictions.
What I did with that 3-4 I put the .106 extra thick steels in the center. Then purchased extra standard .070 " steels and used on outboard sides. Squeezed in 8 frictions.
.028" stack clearance is what I had air checking with 110 psi.
Vette also got the now impossible to find complete NOS 2005 year made only 4L65E 5-pinion Billet 5-pinion planetary Gearset.
Was shipped in a GM Blue factory container.
Full Rollerized.Included the modified Beast Sungear shell.
It was $475.
Some guy on the inside High jacked BORROWED 15 complete sets.
I Bought it for $475.00 cash.
Made In Ohio USA.
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Old 05-05-2018, 05:55 AM   #135
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Originally Posted by 1963SS View Post
Hey Brian, That's true.I have a 9 1/2" Vigilante converter and it has CNC'd billet anti-balooning plates. It is a 3600 stall give or take. My line pressure is 240 PSI and I've never had a tranny problem and it will put on a heck of a smoke show. I also have 9 clutches and kolene steels. The tranny build sheet says it has .030" clearance on the pack. The shifts are firm.......maybe a bit too much for street and strip. I took out a u-joint or two until I switched to the Spicer NON-greasable joint. They are just about perfect and can take a heck of a shock load. I guess that since they are not drilled out for greasing that there is more metal and less chance for breakage.

I don't think that 400 PSI is an option. That seems like a lot.
Dana Spicer is the only Made In the USA U-joint left.
They are $85 Each now for the 1/2 shafts on Our C4's.
Summit Racing website cost each.
I had to replace on the 87 C4 a few months back.
Bought MOOG 1350's. $20 each.
Greasable. Has the Grease Zerk in the one end bearing cap.
Just like Mopar did on their old Musclecars.
So far no issues with the Made in Mexico U-joints.
Old saying as long as the tires on spinning & smoke show nothing breaks on a Corvette is true.
Dana 36 still going too.
Have beat the shit out of it somedays.
Credit Royal Purple Gear Oil 75w-90 I filled it with.

The 63 G.P. I purchased NOS Made in the USA Precision brand U-joints.
Severe Duty.
Grease Cap zerk too.
Lucky Ebay Find.
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