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Old 10-12-2007, 09:22 PM   #31
Dan85Vette
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80VetteGuy View Post
I'm not saying that his post are not good. Just about all of them are. I just felt that this one was left short. If you guys are going to do this on your own, you need to know everything and so should that the guy rebuilding it.
What's what I gathered, thanks for your input.

Never hurts to question and think things through. No job is worth doing unless you cover all your bases the right way.
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Old 10-13-2007, 03:53 PM   #32
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Some valid points, the next time I have a set of arms I'll add some more pictures. Welding seams is another area I left out. It's important to note that I have always advised using a manual with any job as well, just in case I left out something or didn't have a picture handy.

More then a few have rebuilt their own arms, diff's and boxes with guidence and have done a fine job. Can everyone do these jobs, no of course not but having the knowledge of how the parts go together may save them a lot of time, money, and trouble when dealing with a rebuilder.

Here are posts where I made my points from.

https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=86333

https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=81991

https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=81714

https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=81060
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Old 10-13-2007, 04:07 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtr1999 View Post
Bottom line is the information is posted to help others, if you like or dislike them that is your problem. No one is forced to follow any of them.
Yep, the community certainly appreciates the information and guidelines you've provided us on your own time.

Asking questions and offering potential suggestions is one thing, it's another when motives come into play. The DC community is smart enough to see through the veils that others hide behind. Hard work, credibility and strong wits always pay off. Others should just worry about themselves first.

Keep up these great tutorials Gary, definitely helps a large audience of owners around the world.

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Old 10-13-2007, 06:25 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80VetteGuy View Post

If your rebuilding all of these for people and making a profit than why aren't you a vendor here or at the other place? Hell you would be the only C2 C3 vendor here.
I would think that is Patrick's decision, and not yours.
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Old 10-13-2007, 08:39 PM   #35
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Thanks for all your post Gary.........

It shows me that you are truly an unselfish man, to share your know-how
for the benefit of others with no monetary gain or compensation.
If you do generate a little side work from it all.......I see it as justified and
your deserving of it. (JMHO)

It would be a shame to have a Master pass on one day and his talents
and know-how pass with him. We can't take the Corvettes with us.....
so we'll be leaving them for the next generation and they'll need the
skills and know-how to keep them rolling.






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Old 10-14-2007, 10:53 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Jett View Post
Gary, for whatever it's worth please don't let this antagonism stop you from posting your proceedures here!! I used your threads to set up my trailing arms and rotors too! The directions are straightforward and allowed me to not only save money but also have the satisfaction of doing yet another process myself. My car tracks perfectly and I have great brake pedal with the near perfect runout I achieved using your posts. Thank you and again---PLEASE DON'T STOP. Art
And I have to say that while I've basically built my car from nothing, I leave certain things to others. Front end alignments, I have done by a professional, transmission buildups, I have done by a professional, if I ever have to replace my rear wheel bearings again, I'll have that done by a professional (preferably gtr1999) as well. I like to talk with the shop that I'm having things done with to make sure that they will provide the caliber work that I want to pay for.
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'77 350 4-bolt bored .030 over, stock crank and rods, KB hypereutectic pistons, Comp 275DEH cam, ported and polished vortec heads, Comp Valve Springs, Harland Sharp fulcrum roller rockers 1.5:1, custom length Manley pushrods, Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley fuel pump, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, MSD Streetfire Dizzy, Taylor spark plug wires, modded 700-R4, 3:55 rear gears, TCI roll control, upgraded front and rear suspension. B&M Megashifter.

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Old 10-15-2007, 02:45 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80VetteGuy View Post
For trailing arms all you have to do is get a straight end and ruler. Place your straight edge from where the bearing support goes into the to t-arm, out to the bushing. Take your ruler and measure the distance from the arm to the straight edge. You will measure just in front of the bushing. When you find your distance you will know if your arm is bent or not. Can you fill in the blank on how many inches? A qualified rebuilder would have a jig. Thats just a home remidy.
Since the measurement question was brought up here is the answer: 1.92 in.
Mike
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:49 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtr1999 View Post
Some valid points, the next time I have a set of arms I'll add some more pictures. Welding seams is another area I left out. It's important to note that I have always advised using a manual with any job as well, just in case I left out something or didn't have a picture handy.
It was intended to let other people know that there is more to a rebuild than what your post states there is. I just wanted to put it out there that other KEY component need to be checked.
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Old 10-16-2007, 09:13 PM   #39
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I think the purpose of gary's posts are to show what is involved. No, not every step is documented, but he jumps right in with both posts and PM's to help out and explain ALL the steps if thats what you need. I know this from experience. He didnt have to help me with my steering box, but he did and didnt charge me a dime. No secrets. (He even gave me the Top Secret reminder to paint the end plug or it will rust.)

Looks like you got your point across, You dont like Gary. Its apparent why. I think we all see that. But your attacking someone who helps out alot. Cut the B/S.

I know, keep my newb ass out of it..

Gary.. Thanks for all the help.
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Old 10-16-2007, 09:20 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80VetteGuy View Post
Thanks. If rules apply to 1 person they should apply to all. Just b/c he posted pics of how to do something does not make him the exception.
Not so, Ryan - Patrick can do whatever he pleases on this forum since it belongs to him.

You seem a bit cranky, so perhaps you should move on to some other topic and stay out of this one.

It's very easy to pick apart someone's work (especially when you aren't providing any help, just asking questions that sow doubt and uncertainty in the minds of others).

If you have helpful suggestions based on your experience, then share your knowledge on a thread that you create.

You aren't helping anyone by coming on here and acting like this. Time for you to stop it and find something better to do.

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If energy and enthusiasm were a substitute for experience and expertise, then I could hire my 12 year old to do this job.

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Old 10-16-2007, 09:34 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80VetteGuy View Post
EVERY company has their "secrets". Nothing new nothing old. If companies didn't, many wouldn't be in business. Wake up. People may have ideas on how others do work but unless they work there they wouldn't know. Ever hear of confidentiality agreements?

Case closed
Ever hear of me standing in the shop watching him and asking him questions which he is gladly answering? He's really keeping secrets there! Yeah, I know insurance blah blah blah. I told him that I wouldn't sue him if I got hurt and offered him a handshake, that's how we conduct business where I'm from. I am not questioning your motives or asking your name or saying that you don't know what you are talking about when it comes to rear wheel bearings, but in this instance you DON'T know what you are talking about. I guess it helped when I told him that the only reason why I was there was because I COULD do the job on my own, but I wanted to pay a professional to do it. He understands that I do most of my work on my own and the only time I bring my car to him is when I either don't feel like doing it, or I don't have the time.

With that being said, I understand the point of your original post, you made your point clear, it seems like a pretty good point. I was not attacking you personally, only offering my two cents.

Ok, back to the thread.

EDIT: Great point Senior Chief!
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Quote:
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The only "enemies" that fear Obama is taxpayers..
First went Exotix, now Dune, I'd be careful if I were you, Machine...
Old 10-16-2007, 09:38 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caged_Bird View Post
Ok, back to the thread.
Exactly

Any future off topic posts will be removed.

Back to technical discussion and assistance. Take the BS elsewhere.
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Old 10-16-2007, 10:48 PM   #43
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I appreciate all the help you gave me with my u-joint replacement. keep up the good post's,they are very much appreciated by all.

Kevin
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It is what It is.

Those satisfactions are permanent

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Old 10-16-2007, 11:35 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80VetteGuy View Post
Thanks. If rules apply to 1 person they should apply to all.
Well, not exactly. We do play favorites.

We extend latitude to some folks, immunity to some, and put our foot down on others. Too many reasons to list.

But, there is no question that boundries are determined on a case by case basis. Sometimes it's as simple as whether we like you or not. Other times it's more complicated and we actually have to think about it for a bit.

But I can assure you one thing, that there are indeed different rules for different people here on DC. I won't lie to you guys.

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Old 10-20-2007, 01:06 PM   #45
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Ok to complete this thread. It was mentioned I left out things among some other statements. Since I don't do arms everyday and don't stock them I had to go over to my buddies to get some more pictures. I didn't have anything in the shop.

So where did we leave off?

Spindles
If the races were spinning on them they would be marked up or seized. It would be obvious. They should be checked for thread damage, journal damage and the journal diameters may have some minor score marks where the inner bearing and spindle separated. They have center drill holes for those of you who may want to true them in a lathe. You'll have to remove the studs of course and I would replace them if you do remove them. I leave them in if there is no damage as they are better then the some of the current aftermarket studs. For 63-64 spindles, they use a shorter stud. I have faced the longer ones in a lathe to make them the same length as the originals as that is what the owner wanted.
Spindle Journal diameters, these are the spec's have. Taken from my old original and new spindles.
1.376 +/- .0005"
1.188 +/-.0005"
If you want the best job then you'll have to rivet or bolt the rotor and spindles together and kiss cut them in a 14" or large lathe. I bolt and shim them as my lathe is not that large. Also since this threads intention is for the DIY owner most will not have a lathe in their garage.




Here is a scored journal and the spindle was replaced.




Here is a new spindle with 1/2 studs installed. I'm going to set these up in a week or two.



Caliper Brackets.
I have not build a jig for this as my recent critic questioned. I have seen some damged from using one of those spindle presses. Most times I'll lay a striaght edge on the ears. I suppose I could set them up on our comparator and check the dimension from the machined face to the machined ears, but again given this is for the DIY owner I doubt they would have that inspection equipment. I use a common sense approach to this work. If the owner had caliper issues or alignment issues they would be looking at these areas for a problem. I may be wrong with my assumptions though.




ARMS

Ok I left a lot of arm information out, so I'm told. I was vague when I said to look for rot or damage, again as I was told.
Look over the arms in the pocket area for rot. Look at the seams on the end for separation. Look at the flat plate welded to the arm a lot of times rust start in between the layer and causes them to separate and expand. Look in the ID of the large hole where the support mounts. Look at the studs, if they are not rusted and the threads are good I leave them alone. I'll chase the threads as I do the other threaded parts.

I have not made a fixture for this either but all that would be needed would be to run a str edge with the arm in a fixed position to measure the gap between the end and reference line. I use a str edge and the dimension I always used was 1.875" Mike who I trust 100% stated the arms are 1.920" I was off .045" I have never found this dimension in any formal manuals. The tolerences are not as tight as others and some arms can be rebent if desired.
If the arm is bent beyond .200" - .250" I look for other signs of damage and will usually replace them. One set I did was out .375 because an alignment shop purposely bent then trying to align the IRS. Another arm I had in was pounded out of dimension-- not sure how that one happened as the rest of the arm looked fine and had no rot. Str edge and scale or caliper will be all you need.






You can also weld the ends and length if you want. I look at the ends more then the length, but if you have a welder at home go for it.





SUPPORTS

I look at the support arms to see if there are any signs of damage from hammering out the shock mounts. I look in the bores for signs of race damage. I clean, blast and POR15 them. Be sure there is no left over glass bead or dirt in the wells. Fit a shock mount in them. Check the hole ID for signs of egg shape or damage. .640" If you have your shock mounts out check the fit. If the knurl is worn they will bottom out without any resistance. If so I replace them. New knurl OD .659"








Spindle Flanges
I parallel grind these. Sorry, that crap of using sand paper and a flat block just doesn't wash with me. These usually have beat up faces that mate to the inner race of the inner bearing. I grind all mating surfaces for a flat fit.
You can see here what they look like.




I think that covers areas that I "left out" from the previous posts. I welcome all comments on my work when the comments are directed at the questioned areas, not any underlying motives. It's clear to see when someone wants to add useful information for the good of all, like Traccdog did.

I will not apologize for any of my posts that might be considered "harsh" especially if that person has information that could be added without instance to benefit the group of C2 & C3 owners we have gathered here. If a vendor has a problem with me then they should step up and contact me. As mentioned I never named anyone, I left that up the owners who had the work done- some of which I had to correct.

This job can be done at home with some limited outside machine work. Just be honest with yourself on your capabilities. If the car owner decides to go outside for service they will have a good idea what is involved with the job. There are certainly a few places that do this work, my threads have never been posted to build jobs for myself. Along with possible local places,Traccdog, Bairs, Ikerds, etc all can do them. There are really no secrets to this work,BUT not all jobs are done the same. You now have the facts on the jobs to make an informed decision.

Here are the tools I use along with a KO lee surface grinder.




I have the spindle press and made a spindle install tool. I have never used either one yet. Here is the spindle install tool I made. If you want to make one the threads are 3/4-20 not a common thread so if are planning on getting a die you'll have to go to an industrial supplier. figure about $65 for a die and $25 for a handle.



Good luck, no one will treat your car as you will.:thumbsup

Last edited by gtr1999; 10-20-2007 at 05:04 PM.
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