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Old 01-21-2008, 09:12 AM   #76
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Be sure the arm is not bent, rotted,etc. I've filled in the welds, how much of a differnce it makes I couldn't say. If you go in short sections so there's no distortion you'll be ok. Then you can grind them smooth.


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Old 01-21-2008, 11:58 AM   #77
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Eh, I been taking a Dremel cutter wheel to bearing races for a long time now, just hit with a cold chisel and hammer, and off it pops...or gets loose enough to slip off...one the other....

and I do have to agree with Tvette, that a slip fit on that inner bearing for the t-arms sounds like a good idea to me, anyway....when I have to tear mine down, I will do that just to make life easy on myself....

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Old 01-21-2008, 12:40 PM   #78
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Yeah, the slip fit debate comes up all the time on all the forums. I can do that but won't. Many do slip fit them and don't have a problem.
Good luck
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Old 01-21-2008, 01:17 PM   #79
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Frist of all thank you for taking the time to post on this thread. You don't know how many times my father and I have read / printed / re-read you post. First time I read your post I said dad send it out. But with your posts and having the vette tools and 3 sets to do he though it would be best to try to tackle ourselves and it's hard to argue with dad when I get to help him on his car as he is why I have one.

The problem we are having is we lose end play when we put the flange on before we tighten the nut down.

From your thread I would say we are doing 2 things wrong 1 is we didn't go to 100 foot pounds on the set up tool. Second I am not sure we are installing the inner seal deep enough.

Could we have the incorrect shim by not going to 100 on the setup tool and after installing both bearings on the spindal what do you use to seat the final seal?

Thank you for you time
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Old 01-21-2008, 02:23 PM   #80
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Not quite understanding your question. Are you torqing the nut to 100 ft\lbs on the set-up tool each time you check end play? With the seals installed the end play won't change. It will be harder to feel the end play though. The seals have lips under them. Press the seal down all the way until it bottoms.
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Old 01-21-2008, 02:45 PM   #81
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When we take new bearings and a new shim we used the setup tool to check the end play and fig out what shim to use. He did not want to stick the tool in the vise to torque it down. We have the correct end play all the way until the flange is on. Once we put the flange on and we don't torque it all the way down and we lose end play. I am wondering if the inner seal may not being pressed down far enough is stopping the flange from seating all the way down and we are torqing the nut down with the flange too far out.
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Old 01-21-2008, 03:14 PM   #82
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You have to torque the new bearings on the setup tool to 100 ft/lbs,if you don't you'll be off. The seals may cause a drag feeling but they will not cause the endplay to bind like you explain.
Another thing I found, why I parallel grind the spacers and shims, is a difference in the endplay from setup tool to spindle due to poor facing on the shims and spacers. I've found spacers out as much as 005" and purchased shims out .002-.003" Some of the shims are very close but I always grind them now and then check.
If you have already pressed the bearings on I would not go forward until you get the correct endplay. With 001" endplay, greased, seals installed, and torqued to 100+ the spindle should rotate snugly but no binding at all. If it's binding it's no good. You may loose the bearings if you attempt to remove them now. I have tossed out new bearings in the past if I had to remove them again.
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Old 01-21-2008, 03:26 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtr1999 View Post
You have to torque the new bearings on the setup tool to 100 ft/lbs,if you don't you'll be off. The seals may cause a drag feeling but they will not cause the endplay to bind like you explain.
Another thing I found, why I parallel grind the spacers and shims, is a difference in the endplay from setup tool to spindle due to poor facing on the shims and spacers. I've found spacers out as much as 005" and purchased shims out .002-.003" Some of the shims are very close but I always grind them now and then check.
If you have already pressed the bearings on I would not go forward until you get the correct endplay. With 001" endplay, greased, seals installed, and torqued to 100+ the spindle should rotate snugly but no binding at all. If it's binding it's no good. You may loose the bearings if you attempt to remove them now. I have tossed out new bearings in the past if I had to remove them again.
I do not have direct access to a surface grinder. I guess I should just send out the spacers and set of shims to be parallel ground at one time in preparation. If so, what set of shims (variety of thicknesses) should I acquire?
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Old 01-21-2008, 04:15 PM   #84
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Shims come in .006 increments. .097, .103, .109, .115, .121, .127, .133, .139, .145 are the sizes in the kits.
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Old 01-21-2008, 04:32 PM   #85
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Hard to say as they do vary from job to job. Usually in the 130 range but they coudl be +/- that. All depends on the spacer and if it's ground and the new bearings.
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Old 01-23-2008, 12:02 PM   #86
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Just a quick note after reading post on the net on vette rear bearings. I have read some different procedures for setting up the rear bearings lately: rolling, vertical vs horizontal, drag setting, etc.

I'm not knocking anyones methods, if they work for you great. The procedures I listed here have worked for me. Since there are many ways to do a job I wanted to explore this a little more.

Today I called Timken and spoke to one of their engineers about setting up their bearings and which procedure to use. I'm not a bearing engineer so I simply asked about setting up the Timken's I use, usa made ones. There shouldn't be any quality issues with the Polish made bearings but I still use the good old USA made ones. You can decide if you want the chain store offerings(poland) or the indivdual bearings sold(usa). The USA cost more.

What I was told only confirmed my setup procedures. Here is what I was told.

Roll in is not required, rotating the brg while torquing them will seat them and it doesn't matter if they are vertical or horizontal.
Setup with oil only and set the endplay to 001-002". I like the 0015-002" I use. I asked about using a drag method to check like I do with pinion bearings. This step was not recommended for the wheel bearings. The endplay method was preferred.

This man knew exactly what he was talking about and the various setup procedures used by the auto makers. We spoke for a good 30 minutes. BTW, the recommend endplay on fronts is 001-003"

As with any job the common sense approach usually works the best.
If you have a procedure that differs from mine or another one, post it here so we all can read it. Who knows that one differant step may help someone else in the future.

The end result is a bearing setup with 001-002 and car that handles and stops well.

Also we discussed the use of the caged diff yoke bearings offered in many kits, the ones I have as well. I don't use them and always use the torrington full compliment bearings. The others will work but they are usually a low cost substitution. I have a box of new ones here I never install. Remember cheap and quality seldom go together.
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Old 01-23-2008, 12:24 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtr1999 View Post
Just a quick note after reading post on the net on vette rear bearings. I have read some different procedures for setting up the rear bearings lately: rolling, vertical vs horizontal, drag setting, etc.

I'm not knocking anyones methods, if they work for you great. The procedures I listed here have worked for me. Since there are many ways to do a job I wanted to explore this a little more.

Today I called Timken and spoke to one of their engineers about setting up their bearings and which procedure to use. I'm not a bearing engineer so I simply asked about setting up the Timken's I use, usa made ones. There shouldn't be any quality issues with the Polish made bearings but I still use the good old USA made ones. You can decide if you want the chain store offerings(poland) or the indivdual bearings sold(usa). The USA cost more.

What I was told only confirmed my setup procedures. Here is what I was told.

Roll in is not required, rotating the brg while torquing them will seat them and it doesn't matter if they are vertical or horizontal.
Setup with oil only and set the endplay to 001-002". I like the 0015-002" I use. I asked about using a drag method to check like I do with pinion bearings. This step was not recommended for the wheel bearings. The endplay method was preferred.

This man knew exactly what he was talking about and the various setup procedures used by the auto makers. We spoke for a good 30 minutes. BTW, the recommend endplay on fronts is 001-003"

As with any job the common sense approach usually works the best.
If you have a procedure that differs from mine or another one, post it here so we all can read it. Who knows that one differant step may help someone else in the future.

The end result is a bearing setup with 001-002 and car that handles and stops well.

Also we discussed the use of the caged diff yoke bearings offered in many kits, the ones I have as well. I don't use them and always use the torrington full compliment bearings. The others will work but they are usually a low cost substitution. I have a box of new ones here I never install. Remember cheap and quality seldom go together.
Great stuff--------as usual!
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Old 02-09-2008, 02:34 PM   #88
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I'm setting up some bearings and installing 1/2 studs for a buddy.I just got to doing this job and wanted to play around with the new index head we got. I spent more time aligning it then using it.

I used the ARP bolts, the FORD ones, (1/2-20 x 3"). The kurl is just under the flange thickness. I stepped up the drilled until I got to the 39/64 bit. I set them up in a Bridgeport, in back gear, and they cut no problem. I started them with a hammer and then pressed them in. I used 2 old rotors for an alignment fixture and this worked good. You have to open the "fixture" holes up, I went to .515".

I have not done this with a hand drill and suspect it is a bit more of a job that way. I also wouldn't go with the ARP recommended 005" hole undersize. The 609 hole is 016" under and the press was tight but not bad when using a press. I could have hammered them in as long as they went in straight. I suppose I could have made a better hole alignment fixture but I usually use 7/16 stock studs when needed.









The studs heads are wide and come very close to the chamfer on the back of the spindle flange. I made up this dummy plug to check the fit. It was close so I used a dremel to grind in a chamfer on part of the studs to clear the flange.




















Now on to setting up the bearings.
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Old 02-09-2008, 03:30 PM   #89
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Here's some more things you may find. This job had a zerk installed in the support. There is a place that does this but I don't know if this is one of theirs? This spindle was worked on before and had Bowker bearings in it. The other side still had the original NDH bearings.










Here you can see where it comes into the support. It is below the race and will fill the well before forcing too much grease into the bearing. This will be plugged when I rebuild it.




Another thing I found on the other support was a loose shock mount D flat hole. This was worn and looks like hammered on in the past.






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Old 02-15-2008, 09:18 AM   #90
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To follow up on this last job for my buddy. I plugged the 1/4 npt hole then milled it flat.

I also wanted to save the support with the opened up shock mount hole. It was date coded for the car and in othewise great shape. Tossing it in the trash would have been a shame. I ended up welding small tabs on the shock mount to build it up and then turned it in a lathe. I had to build up the flat on one side as well but it fits tight now and only cost an hour of my time.








Last edited by gtr1999; 02-15-2008 at 10:44 AM.
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