63-82 Rear Trailing Arm Rebuilding - Page 7 - Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums
 
 
Go Back   Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums > C3 Corvette Forums > C3 Corvette
Register Forums Garage Garage Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowInsurance Advertise

Notices

C3 Corvette
C3 Corvette General | Technical | Performance | Aftermarket | Discussions

Other sections:
Corvettes Classifieds
Corvette Detailing & Car Care
Corvette Audio/Video/Radar
General Automotive/Shop/Tools
Corvette Performance Driving/Racing

( Sponsored by: Zip Corvette Parts )

Shops/Tuners
Custom Image Corvettes
A&A Corvette
Corvette tuner

Interior
Corvette aftermarket products

Insurance



Parts & Products
Race Ramps
Edelbrock
ATI/Procharger
Corvetteguys.com
Melrose Motorsports
Parts Taxi
Airaid
Pfadt Racing
Madvette Motorsports
Hi-tech Custom Concepts
Corvette Garage
Corvette Parts and Accessories
Corvette Car Care Products
Corvette HID

Tracks/Schools
Bob Bondurant School of High Performance Driving
Corvette driving school

Wheels/Tires
Cray Wheels

Services
BADWERKS.com
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 02-15-2008, 10:56 AM   #91
tracdogg2
DC Crew
 
tracdogg2's Avatar
 
Posts: 230
Member #12088
Member since: Apr 2004
Location: Dallas, Texas

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
[QUOTE=gtr1999;1052729]Be sure the arm is not bent, rotted,etc. I've filled in the welds, how much of a differnce it makes I couldn't say. If you go in short sections so there's no distortion you'll be ok. Then you can grind them smooth.



These arms bend very easily, I straighten them all the time. Usually they will be bent at the reinforcing plate behind the bearing support. The plate is welded on with 12-14 tack welds. The plate bends inbetween the welds. The plate needs to be welded with a continuous bead all around.
Mike
tracdogg2 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-21-2008, 04:09 PM   #92
gtr1999
Supporting Vendor
 
gtr1999's Avatar
 
Posts: 3,762
Member #44662
Member since: Apr 2006
Location: New Haven CT-USA!!!

My Corvette(s)
69 & 72

Thanks: 18
Thanked 177 Times in 159 Posts
Here is something I found for the first time. The spindle spacers were badly worn on the faces when we pulled both arms apart on a job for a buddy.
I dressed them in the grinder and got them smoth,flat and parallel but the overall length was too short. The inner "bell" end on the lg diameter was binding on the setup tool and certainly would have on the spindle. I even tried to grind the ID of the bell but they were too far gone. New spacers were required.
gtr1999 is online now   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Gary
69 vert 350 M20-373's
72 coupe 350,TH400,336's
Old 02-22-2008, 12:25 PM   #93
stinger12
DC Crew
 
stinger12's Avatar
 
Posts: 598
Member #56526
Member since: Jan 2007
Location: Calgary/Alberta/Canada

My Corvette(s)
1976 stingray

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtr1999 View Post
Here is something I found for the first time. The spindle spacers were badly worn on the faces when we pulled both arms apart on a job for a buddy.
I dressed them in the grinder and got them smoth,flat and parallel but the overall length was too short. The inner "bell" end on the lg diameter was binding on the setup tool and certainly would have on the spindle. I even tried to grind the ID of the bell but they were too far gone. New spacers were required.
I always wondered if this would actually occur when grinding old spacers to get them parallel. Good tip Gary
stinger12 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 02-26-2008, 10:29 PM   #94
tristan69
DC Crew
 
tristan69's Avatar
 
Posts: 110
Member #66218
Member since: Oct 2007
Location: Burnaby / BC / Canada

My Corvette(s)
69 Vert

Thanks: 3
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Thanks for the post, now I think I want to change to 1/2" studs when I do my new TA.
tristan69 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-27-2008, 06:46 PM   #95
turtlevette
Account Disabled.
 
Posts: 1,311
Member #59998
Member since: May 2007
Location: massachusetts

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
.

Last edited by turtlevette; 02-28-2008 at 05:59 PM.
turtlevette is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
...
Old 02-27-2008, 07:01 PM   #96
big2bird
DC Crew
 
big2bird's Avatar
 
Posts: 5,916
Member #58543
Member since: Mar 2007
Location: Anaheim,Ca.,USA

My Corvette(s)
1981 T-Top Caprice powered Disco Buggy

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by turtlevette View Post
not that i recommend this

BUT,

I slip fit both bearings and shitcan the spacer. Tighten the spindle nut using the same procedure you do the front.

Did this about 6 years ago and 60k miles with no trouble at all. They still feel nice and tight.

I want to be able to break the thing down and easily fix it when 600 miles away from home at a track. Serviceablity is the main reason.
That cracks me up. I was just asked about why we can't do this yesterday.
Gary/Mike, why not? Is it not just a front spindle turned around and the reverse?
big2bird is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-27-2008, 07:09 PM   #97
gtr1999
Supporting Vendor
 
gtr1999's Avatar
 
Posts: 3,762
Member #44662
Member since: Apr 2006
Location: New Haven CT-USA!!!

My Corvette(s)
69 & 72

Thanks: 18
Thanked 177 Times in 159 Posts
Well I was taught to press fit them so that is how I always have done the job. I know a few guys have slip fit them but they are also guys who will maintain them every year or two. Most want them done and drive the car.
Running without a spacer is something I wouldn't do. The spacer and shim are set so that endplay is locked in torqued to 100+ ft/lbs. Without the spacers the endplay can change as the nut is torqued. It's similer to setting up the pinion bearing in a diff. I start without the crush sleeve to set the drag, but I very easily can over torque the nut and tighen the bearings too much. Once the crush or solid sleeve is in place against both inner races the final setting is made and the endplay and drag set. The bearing will seat in use but the endplay should not change, the drag will.

I pass on both requests for this work.
gtr1999 is online now   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Gary
69 vert 350 M20-373's
72 coupe 350,TH400,336's
Old 02-28-2008, 12:02 AM   #98
tracdogg2
DC Crew
 
tracdogg2's Avatar
 
Posts: 230
Member #12088
Member since: Apr 2004
Location: Dallas, Texas

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The main difference is there is a drive axle passing thru the bearings. I don't know of any manufacturer that has floating bearings in a drive wheel, rear or front drive. Even with large one piece sealed bearings like honda uses the axle is still bolted tight. Every slip-fit trailing arm I've torn down has had wear on the spacers, spindles, spindle shaft and bearing inner races. Let's say you did a slip fit with .0005 clearance. Every time the wheel rotates, figuring just the weight of the car without driving loads, you are going to have movement.
Add to it drive torque, leverage effect from all the weight on one side of the spindle, cornering and braking loads. More movement. Now add in different expansion and wear rates from dissimilar metals.
Now leave out the spacer and shim and any ability to torque the spindle nut to 100 ft.lbs. minimum. The spindle flange is also a slip fit. Now it has movement everytime you step on or let off the gas. Increased wear on the splines. Flange drags on the spindle washer, spindle washer drags on the spindle nut. That's putting a lot of faith in a 10 cent cotter pin.
Mike
tracdogg2 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-28-2008, 02:34 AM   #99
mrvette
Account Disabled.
 
Posts: 3,855
Member #59755
Member since: Apr 2007
Location: Orange Park Florida

My Corvette(s)
'72 hotrod custom

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Being lazy, when the time comes I think I will do mine the turtlevette way, and just look at it once in a while...been some 13 years and push 100k miles since mine were done the usual way....

this whole topid brings to mind about a FWD car, they talk of 100 ftlbs on the spindle nut, and I have never seen the need for that, the driveshaft comes through, and honestly I see no room for it to go anywhere, so I just snug down the nutz and have over with it allready...the little clips on the inside of shaft, keeping it from coming outta the tranny easy....why they there?? never understood what on their minds with that either...pull the strut bolts, take the shaft off by just slipping it out, why that snap ring?? useless to my way of thinking....but they all have one, one's I seen anyway....

so I just snug down the bolts on the bearing and put on the cotter pin having over with it....

in fact, you know for front end work, if needed and I do't have a cotter pin...I use a #4 flat head nail....or whatever fits well, can't see the differance...it works for years now...

mrvette is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message


GENE

IT is not the SIZE of the problem, but the perfection of the solution......

Airheads are immune to logic and common sense.

www.mrvette.shutterfly.com
Old 02-28-2008, 09:52 AM   #100
stinger12
DC Crew
 
stinger12's Avatar
 
Posts: 598
Member #56526
Member since: Jan 2007
Location: Calgary/Alberta/Canada

My Corvette(s)
1976 stingray

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tracdogg2 View Post
The main difference is there is a drive axle passing thru the bearings. I don't know of any manufacturer that has floating bearings in a drive wheel, rear or front drive. Even with large one piece sealed bearings like honda uses the axle is still bolted tight. Every slip-fit trailing arm I've torn down has had wear on the spacers, spindles, spindle shaft and bearing inner races. Let's say you did a slip fit with .0005 clearance. Every time the wheel rotates, figuring just the weight of the car without driving loads, you are going to have movement.
Add to it drive torque, leverage effect from all the weight on one side of the spindle, cornering and braking loads. More movement. Now add in different expansion and wear rates from dissimilar metals.
Now leave out the spacer and shim and any ability to torque the spindle nut to 100 ft.lbs. minimum. The spindle flange is also a slip fit. Now it has movement everytime you step on or let off the gas. Increased wear on the splines. Flange drags on the spindle washer, spindle washer drags on the spindle nut. That's putting a lot of faith in a 10 cent cotter pin.
Mike
And to be honest with you, I am willing to bet most people farm there trailing arms out to one of the vendors anyways...so why risk a slip fit to make their work a little easier in the long run?
stinger12 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-28-2008, 01:05 PM   #101
glenn64vette
 
Posts: 793
Member #64659
Member since: Sep 2007

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrvette View Post
Being lazy, when the time comes I think I will do mine the turtlevette way, and just look at it once in a while...been some 13 years and push 100k miles since mine were done the usual way....

this whole topid brings to mind about a FWD car, they talk of 100 ftlbs on the spindle nut, and I have never seen the need for that, the driveshaft comes through, and honestly I see no room for it to go anywhere, so I just snug down the nutz and have over with it allready...the little clips on the inside of shaft, keeping it from coming outta the tranny easy....why they there?? never understood what on their minds with that either...pull the strut bolts, take the shaft off by just slipping it out, why that snap ring?? useless to my way of thinking....but they all have one, one's I seen anyway....

so I just snug down the bolts on the bearing and put on the cotter pin having over with it....

in fact, you know for front end work, if needed and I do't have a cotter pin...I use a #4 flat head nail....or whatever fits well, can't see the differance...it works for years now...

The Turtlevette way.

I did a slip fit on the rear bearings in 1981. That lasted ( greased them once a year ) till last year. I did keep the sleeve/spacers in. This time I had it pressed fitted.


I think this is a personal call on which way you want it done.
glenn64vette is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-28-2008, 04:12 PM   #102
turtlevette
Account Disabled.
 
Posts: 1,311
Member #59998
Member since: May 2007
Location: massachusetts

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
.

Last edited by turtlevette; 02-28-2008 at 06:00 PM.
turtlevette is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
...
Old 02-28-2008, 04:33 PM   #103
stinger12
DC Crew
 
stinger12's Avatar
 
Posts: 598
Member #56526
Member since: Jan 2007
Location: Calgary/Alberta/Canada

My Corvette(s)
1976 stingray

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You don't have to be an expert to work on these bearings...you just have to have patience when setting them up. Case and point - I am only 18 and rebuilt mine for the first time and had my friend turn me two shims to the sizes I needed. I got the endplay on one side to 0.0015 and the other side to 0.002-0.0025. Pressed fitted the bearings and everything...you just need to research how to rebuild them. Other than that, these arms are really easy to rebuild...
stinger12 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-28-2008, 04:37 PM   #104
turtlevette
Account Disabled.
 
Posts: 1,311
Member #59998
Member since: May 2007
Location: massachusetts

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
.

Last edited by turtlevette; 02-28-2008 at 06:00 PM.
turtlevette is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
...
Old 02-28-2008, 05:22 PM   #105
stinger12
DC Crew
 
stinger12's Avatar
 
Posts: 598
Member #56526
Member since: Jan 2007
Location: Calgary/Alberta/Canada

My Corvette(s)
1976 stingray

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turtlevette View Post
yada yada, you have until you're 60 to finish yours......

think you will make it.??

I'm paranoid about being in Canada (for example) when one of these things burns up. I don't like being stuck 600 miles from home. I don't have week to do the work on the road and i don't have a week to find someone and wait for them to do it.

I've been milling over another idea. I'll just carry a whole bearing housing assy already set up with the spindle and greased. That should'nt take that much time to swap.

as far as i can see the only difference between left and right is where the flat is milled on the shock mount holes. I just take a shock mount and extend the flat spot all the way down the length with a grinder and vollia you have a right or left hand assy.
True, I didn't take age into consideration...some people just want to drive and enjoy their vette. I guess it all depends on what satisfies the owner. Anyways, lets get back to the trailing arm discussion
stinger12 is offline   Reply w/quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (12 CHARACTERS MAXIMUM), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
City / State / Country?
Where you live
What kind of Corvette(s) do you own?
This field is not required.
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Spotters Guide to C4 Wheels OldVetteFan C4 Corvette 30 05-11-2011 09:14 PM
Know Your C6 Corvette - Model Year Differences OldVetteFan Corvette History 6 12-23-2008 12:21 AM
My C4 build codes - assistance! sarge C4 Corvette 5 01-09-2008 02:52 PM
Pulling the body - where to get info Cetrov C3 Corvette 5 10-03-2006 02:55 PM
My trailing arm and hydraulic emergency brake carguy4sure C3 Corvette 2 10-30-2005 07:22 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:43 PM.




Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
2003-2011, DigitalCorvettes.com - All Rights Reserved