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Old 02-29-2008, 08:35 AM   #106
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Hey guys don't load this thread up with crap now. It's meant to be helpful not turn into a debate. There are several ways to do most jobs so this is offered as the one I've used.

Jeremy, you have done a great deal on your own and your confidence is beyond that of a lot of guys double your age but be careful with your recommendations. You can't base a objective statement from only one experience.

This is job that has to be precisely setup or it will fail.

Without access to the correct tools and a surface grinder the job can be done but it will be much harder. A first timer may have a big problem that will cause him more time and money in the long run. With good mechanical ablity,the correct tools, and guidence then yes it's not a bad job but to deal with the odd ball problems that do arise you do need to be an expert. One thing I learned a long time ago is to follow the old saying "expect the unexpected" that's one thing I can't type out on a thread. I add to the threads as I encounter them but there's always something out of the usual on a lot of jobs. I've been in the machine-tool trade and working on vettes for 30 years now and there's always something to learn.

Again guys it's good to hear everyone opinion but let's keep things in proper perspective for the new guys wanting to learn about this.

Thanks
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Old 02-29-2008, 09:15 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtr1999 View Post
Hey guys don't load this thread up with crap now. It's meant to be helpful not turn into a debate. There are several ways to do most jobs so this is offered as the one I've used.

Jeremy, you have done a great deal on your own and your confidence is beyond that of a lot of guys double your age but be careful with your recommendations. You can't base a objective statement from only one experience.

This is job that has to be precisely setup or it will fail.

Without access to the correct tools and a surface grinder the job can be done but it will be much harder. A first timer may have a big problem that will cause him more time and money in the long run. With good mechanical ablity,the correct tools, and guidence then yes it's not a bad job but to deal with the odd ball problems that do arise you do need to be an expert. One thing I learned a long time ago is to follow the old saying "expect the unexpected" that's one thing I can't type out on a thread. I add to the threads as I encounter them but there's always something out of the usual on a lot of jobs. I've been in the machine-tool trade and working on vettes for 30 years now and there's always something to learn.

Again guys it's good to hear everyone opinion but let's keep things in proper perspective for the new guys wanting to learn about this.

Thanks

ONLY TWO comments to the above....


rule #1, mass production units, means mass production faults, means mass failures.....

rule #2, mass production means there aint' no two alike.....

rule#3, forget all that BS you learned in HSshool about mass production....


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GENE

IT is not the SIZE of the problem, but the perfection of the solution......

Airheads are immune to logic and common sense.

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Old 02-29-2008, 10:36 AM   #108
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You are correct Gary - I shouldn't be basing my facts off of only one rebuild, as I didn't encounter any major problems with my arms. You do need access to a surface grinder though if you want to do the best job possible. Anyways, lets end all this crap now so this thread gets back to the main topic on how to rebuild arms correctly.
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:49 PM   #109
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Here is what I found a spindle tonight after cleaning it up. The center of the large journal was turned down. This was from a spun bearing race as the OD was uniform. I didn't see it until I polished the spindle in the lathe. I suspect the previous guy wrecked the journal trying to remove the bearing the wrong way and then turned it to clean it up- 023" undersize. Now there is some of the original diameter there but I'm going to install a new USA spindle. This arm also had a bent caliper bracker and bent arm. Nice how those spindle presses work on old rust welded arms.

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Old 07-20-2008, 03:24 PM   #110
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I switched to a larger diameter cotter pin for the spindle nut. I like it because it's a snug fit not loose like I see on some jobs. I just found out that the larger radius of the head may extend beyond the nut a little too much and the flange ID could hit it. I just checked this on a set of arms I'm doing now and did find the overall length was a problem. I just bent up the head and cut the ends. Just something else to look at doing these.

here is a new flange


Here is an original flange
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Old 09-11-2008, 05:23 PM   #111
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Great write up Gary, and I think you have convinced me to leave this to the pros. You are on the east coast. Can you recommend someone here on the west coast that will do as thorough a job as you would. I was hoping to drop mine off. If I ship, I'll ship to you. Can you email or PM me your prices. I have offset trailing arms on the way, and I want my bearings done before I install the new arms.
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Old 09-11-2008, 10:33 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee Jay View Post
Great write up Gary, and I think you have convinced me to leave this to the pros. You are on the east coast. Can you recommend someone here on the west coast that will do as thorough a job as you would. I was hoping to drop mine off. If I ship, I'll ship to you. Can you email or PM me your prices. I have offset trailing arms on the way, and I want my bearings done before I install the new arms.
Bee Jay
The only person closer to you that I would trust (other than Gary) would be tracdogg2. He's located in Garland, Texas.
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:08 AM   #113
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If you have new offset arms you might want to check them to see if you have the same issues others had recently.
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Old 09-28-2008, 07:02 AM   #114
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Aftermarket Trailing Arms?

gtr1999, I want to say I appreciate your knowledge and the awesome ability to narrate an install. I have a 74, just purchased, with the knowledge I have work ahead of me. The front and rear suspensions are shot. I want to make any improvements over stock as feasible but don't want to throw money at something that may not be necessary. Is there any advantage to going to an aftermarket billet type trailing arm or is a stock trailing arm properly rebuilt sufficient for say road course type driving. I want it to handle curves and horsepower. Do you sell Assemblies?
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Old 09-28-2008, 08:17 AM   #115
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thanks gary!
another great post
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IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
Old 09-28-2008, 11:43 AM   #116
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Thanks Grumpy.

RK- IMO. as long as the stock arms are not rotted or bent they can be reused. I always clean and then check the arms when I have them apart to be sure they're ok.

I have not used any AM billet arms so I couldn't say if they're worth the added expense or not. I have found the stock arms or the USA made replacement arms to handle most applications.

I rebuild units vs exchanging. I'd rather work with someone and their original parts. That way they know what they sent me is what they get back. Some of the exchange units I've seen had issues with QC in certain areas. This was not limited to one vendor either.

I recommend you take your time and get your suspensions apart and then make a judgement after inspection.

Good luck with your project, if you need any help let me know.
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Old 09-29-2008, 04:15 AM   #117
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Turn Around?

What's your turn around time, No rush, just need an idea as to how much down time I would be looking at.
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Old 09-29-2008, 04:28 AM   #118
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Researhing.

As for set ups, I ahve been looking at several so called upgrades. How much of an upgrade is changing to some of the offerings by Vansteel? for front and rear. They also mention a mono spring app for the front? Is this worth the money?
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Old 09-29-2008, 07:46 AM   #119
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I'll PM you some info.
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Old 10-03-2008, 12:25 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtr1999 View Post
If you have new offset arms you might want to check them to see if you have the same issues others had recently.
My offset trailing arms arrived today. I bought them from Mid America and assumed they were Van Steel. Whose arms are these? Do you see any problems with them?
Bee Jay

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Original owner, '79 L82, 350 four bolt , forged rods, pistons, & crank. AFR 195 heads, LT4 Hot Cam, hydraulic roller lifters, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley 950cfm Fuel Injection. C5 Z06 wheels, offset trailing arms, batwing cross member, frame notching & sway bar mods to fit 295/35-18 rear tires. MSD6 ignition, dual electric fans, electric water pump. 700R4 Auto with 3.55s. Headers, 2 1/2" dual exhaust with crossover, x-pipe and a single 2 1/2" dual in/dual out Magnaflow muffler. 400lbs+ in weight loss.
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