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Old 10-03-2008, 02:22 PM   #121
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I generally don't use offset arms. If I did, I would use the ones Tom has given his track record, but again all my cars use std arms. As long as they fit the frame pocket without issues you should be ok. You need a shorter spring leaf correct?
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Old 10-03-2008, 04:13 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtr1999 View Post
I generally don't use offset arms. If I did, I would use the ones Tom has given his track record, but again all my cars use std arms. As long as they fit the frame pocket without issues you should be ok. You need a shorter spring leaf correct?
Tom? No these are not double off set, so my standard fiberglass spring will do.
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Original owner, '79 L82, 350 four bolt , forged rods, pistons, & crank. AFR 195 heads, LT4 Hot Cam, hydraulic roller lifters, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley 950cfm Fuel Injection. C5 Z06 wheels, offset trailing arms, batwing cross member, frame notching & sway bar mods to fit 295/35-18 rear tires. MSD6 ignition, dual electric fans, electric water pump. 700R4 Auto with 3.55s. Headers, 2 1/2" dual exhaust with crossover, x-pipe and a single 2 1/2" dual in/dual out Magnaflow muffler. 400lbs+ in weight loss.
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:15 PM   #123
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OK, let us know how the install goes.
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Old 10-17-2008, 12:36 AM   #124
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I've gotta say that Gary's posts are the absolute best! I just sat up for the last hour reading through this thread. I didn't understand half of what I was reading, but it was still cool
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:37 AM   #125
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Hey guys, I just wanted to pass along some info on the recent grease concern I had.
I did a set of arms like I always do, only I ran out of the Mobil 1 grease I had on the bench after the first arm was done. Not a problem, opened a new case of Mobil 1 and setup the second arm. When I torqured the spindle for setting the cotter pin I found the spindle very tight, it would move but it was not where I set them to. I figured I was off grinding my shim so I broke it down, tossed out the new bearings and setup another set to 0015-002"
Finished it up and was back to the tight fit. This time I broke it down, slip fit the inner brg, washed out the grease, and checked them in my fixture with the spindle, no setup tool- they were dead on the 0015" I set them to. The only difference was no Mobil 1 grease.
I went back to look over the grease and found there is a slight difference in the old & new grease and cap color change. I still had some of the "old" grease so I setup another new set of bearings and used the new "old" grease and they dialed right in.
Now I called Timken to see if there was a concen with the added drag I found with the new grease. The Timken techws very exprienced but couldn't say if it would be a problem, the grease may loosen up or it may not. Mobil was less helpful and couldn't answer my questions, even told me they don't make the grease? So after speaking with Timken again will use their red automoitve grease on the bearings unless I find anymore of the old Mobil. One tech at Mobil did tell me they changed the formulation but didn't know just how it was revised.
I just wanted to pass along this info, if this happened to a DIY for the first time it would have driven them crazy. It almost drove me nuts.



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Old 01-16-2009, 10:55 AM   #126
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When I first started doing rear bearings years ago, I found the bearings tight like you did. Re-checked my work, everything was fine. Now I don't worry about it any more. I do find that sometimes the seals create a lot of drag, but now I trust my set-up and install them. If I can rotate the axle with my fingers, it's good to go.
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Old 01-16-2009, 11:24 AM   #127
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Hi Gary,
I agree completely and expect some drag with the final install of grease and seals, however in this case there is no question my mind it was with the Mobil1. Difference was night & day between the old and new mobil 1 grease. There was a good 20-25 in/lbs of drag on them and I never had that with an other setup.As you know I don't chance anything in my work so that's why I did not use the newer grease. I tossed the new bearings as well once I drove out the spindle.
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Old 02-25-2009, 01:39 PM   #128
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I was cleaning out my junk bin and came across some parts I used to use when I ran techincal rebuilding classes on the custom work I do. Thought they would be a good reference for this post on some examples of poor arms and even worse, lousy service work you may run into.

First
Here is the arm off my 69 vert. You can see it was rotted out, the seam was open, it was just junk.














Here is what the previous owner of my 75 got for his $1600 T/A rebuild. The shop didn't know how to do anything but bill the job well beyond what it should have been. When I got the car I had to see what a $1600 T/A rebuild looked like. The bushings weren't staked, the shims were falling out, and the PB shoes were held on with sheet metal screws. The best part was how they got to the PB springs. Take a look and let me know if you want to use this shop!!






Also here is an early 63 support. You can see there is no webbing in between the legs.



Lastly, common alignment shop technique of bending the strut rods to align the car. Forget about fixing the problem(s). The biggest problem many owners never knew what was done once they got the car back.

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Old 03-04-2009, 05:00 PM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNprogrammer View Post
I've gotta say that Gary's posts are the absolute best! I just sat up for the last hour reading through this thread.
Gary, I have a couple questions that might benefit others as well.
-Are the rear bearing support housings a handed part? If so, are there right & left tell-tails?
-When trailing arms are loose and unmarked, how does one tell Lt & Rt sides?
Thanx-
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Old 03-04-2009, 05:52 PM   #130
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Yes they are L&R, the D-Flat goes to the rear of the arm.
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Old 03-05-2009, 01:08 PM   #131
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Thanx for that reply Gary.
But I do have one more question for you.
How do tell the correct direction for the rear bearing carrier seal?
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Old 03-05-2009, 03:40 PM   #132
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Thanx for that reply Gary.
But I do have one more question for you.
How do tell the correct direction for the rear bearing carrier seal?
Depends on the brand of seal you use. I use CR seals which cost the most. They angle in. A lot of places sell a kit of bearings and seals and the seals are the flat edge ones which I wouldn't use.
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Old 03-06-2009, 12:33 PM   #133
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I'm doing a set of arms now. I tried a set of bearings, packaged like you will find in a chain store. Said Timken, said USA, didn't hold tolerence. Set to 002 ended up with 004" I tossed them out and setup a set of Timkens from my supplier- dead on 0015 from setup tool to final torque.
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:22 PM   #134
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Here is one I did last week. Someone decided to stretch the service interval by a little....Look at the inner bearing inner race. It's stretched about 1/2 inch longer than stock. Everything on this is toast, including the outer flange, which now sports a very deep groove where the inner seal rides. The rollers (only about 3 left that resembled a roller), were flattened paper thin. Sucker must have been glowing red hot! The splines on the axle were starting to twist....moments away from hard failure....

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Old 03-07-2009, 06:53 AM   #135
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Those appear to be replacement seals. Were they Hyatt or NDH bearings?
They must have been some noise driving. What year is that off, looks like a later spindle with on 2 holes?
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