Originally Posted by Pops71lives
All hardware including cushions and spacers are new. My guess is this is a lesson in patience.
Your guess is correct.
As I learned in school, you align the rear section on the frame and work forwards. As the rear door
jamb and the sill are an angle in one piece, you align the rear gap first, then align the front fender to the front of the door
. Works fine with steel bodied cars with adjustable fenders.
On my vette, keeping in mind no body-off, I put the drivers door
back on, put the striker on loosely, and centered the door
in the opening as best I could so that the height was correct (height adj in the door
, fore aft adj in the cowl) and it would close fairly close at the back. Then aligned the striker to the door
loosely but so it would latch. Then, with the door
closed and latched, I loosened all the hinge bolts, and from the outside I could see where it needed to go. I used wood shims under the door
between the door
and sill to get height close then shifted fore and aft with wood pry tools to get it close, then got in the car from the other side and tightened the cowl bolts.
I got lucky and it was pretty close and only took some minor tweeking after this. All in all about 45 min.
NOW, on the passenger side, I now have probably 5 hrs time in alignment over a period of several days and it's def not perfect! But it's as good as it will get. The final alignment on that side will have to be finished with fiberglass and filler.
On the pass side, I went from adding shims from original, to subtracting shims from what they were originally, and up down and back and forth a million times. The top-front door
fender gap looks like crap on my car. But I'm not realigning fenders to fix it!