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Great thread there guy!

Part of the problem with both Classic and Vintage is that they have not come up with the correct setup for a 78-82 console. I have a 75 restomod project that I want to change over the interior dash to the later model version. The glove box change is the problem. I have not bought my air system yet until I see which company gets it right first.

BTW.....as far as using photobucket for pics.....I find that using the Manage Attachments feature already available here is much easier to use. You just load the pic from there. So simple a caveman could do it. Check it out.

Txs again for sharing. I have 2 projects that I was going to go old school 383 stroker SBC with but really tempted to go LS with one of them.

Good luck with your project

Dennis (Bman)
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Great thread there guy!

Part of the problem with both Classic and Vintage is that they have not come up with the correct setup for a 78-82 console. I have a 75 restomod project that I want to change over the interior dash to the later model version. The glove box change is the problem. I have not bought my air system yet until I see which company gets it right first.

BTW.....as far as using photobucket for pics.....I find that using the Manage Attachments feature already available here is much easier to use. You just load the pic from there. So simple a caveman could do it. Check it out.

Txs again for sharing. I have 2 projects that I was going to go old school 383 stroker SBC with but really tempted to go LS with one of them.

Good luck with your project

Dennis (Bman)
I agree, after going through most of this caa setup it doesn't seem like it'd take much to make some fittings/adapters for the factory defrost and center vents and the rest should be very similar to the other c3 setups. I would mind helping them out in the fitment area of things if they were to give me discount on the setup, but too late for that I guess.

:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I haven't had much progress lately with a 5 month old at home. Here's some pictures of the little bit I've had time to get to.




Bought a cover for the wiper area. Bought some factory looking plastic anchors (how whatever they're called) to hold it down. Has anyone had any luck putting a heat gun to these things to get the corners around the windshield to lay down? I took a heat gun to it and it lays down nice. Once it cools off it goes right back to the same position it was in. Same thing happens even if I apply the heat and put something on top to hold the corners down until they cool off.
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new under cowl gauges came in.
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Oh yeah and the main course arrived. Still waiting on motor mounts and other stuff before I get moving.
LS3/525 with 4L70 trans.





 

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I'm really liking that main course. That is going to be a killer ride when you are finished
 

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Discussion Starter #45
maybe my expectations are too high for some of these companies. This classic air controller that I paid an extra 100 for sure doesn't look great once lite up at night. Poorly designed faceplate and the aluminum behind it. You can clearly see where the cutouts are in the aluminum with the black face plate on it that is supposed to block the light. It's even more obvious with the green leds in there (which I can't run because they didn't put a divider for the lights inside there). I have to run white lights in the controller which won't match all of my other gauges. :rolleyes:

20170804_172057 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

20170804_171850 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

20170804_172223 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr



ok onto more fun with the LS swap. Here's my harness from Tilden motorsports. I went with them because they made a harness for an ls3 with an E67 ecm. Come to find out when I got my GMPP E67 ECM in the harness is for an E38 ECM. Back it goes to get made right. Notice the blade pins in the connectors don't match and I'm missing a whole connector to the ecm.

GMPP E67 ECM for the LS3/525:
20170831_193644 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

Tilden harness connections, the smaller goes to the TCM :
20170831_193550 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr



and on a plus note my other toys came in from CIC.
20170831_191943 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr
20170902_193133 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

Here's my android double din 7" wide screen and unfinished new gauge layout for my center console. I'll be moving the fuel between the speed & tach area soon. I can download an app on the head unit to run digital gauges if I even need to read anything else specifically. Cool, but not sure how much I'lll actually use that app.

20170829_193707 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Got some work done over the weekend thanks to a good friend. :partyon:F-body oil pan swap and dropped it in. I'm still waiting on my ecm, tcm and harness to be reworked. I plan on routing new fuel lines, trans cooler lines with aux trans cooler and after going through a couple of dorman power steering pump pulley options I just ordered a dirty dingo 5" billet pulley from them. The dorman 300-301 has the .66 hub and is about 5-5/16" od but offset is a little different and will not align. The dorman 300-126 is same hub size and 5-3/4" od is a little closer to alignment but still a little off and much closer to my control arm. I'll post some pictures a little later of clearances at the p/s pump area. I'm sure my wife's happy, I cleared out much of the extra bedroom that was/is storage for ls swap parts.








plenty of room up front:


good bit at the firewall:


decent underneath:



I had a few clearance issues but nothing major:

I had to modify the trans crossmember for 4L70E


Modify the water pump (not too sure exactly where i want to put my fittings yet for the heater core supply/return). I'm running poly motor mounts so I'm not sure how much the motor with torque over toward the control arm.




Headers fit really nice considering each car is slightly different. These things just barely touch. I'll have to "clearance" them, but still very pleased!

 

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I plan on routing new fuel lines...

I'm sure my wife's happy, I cleared out much of the extra bedroom that was/is storage for ls swap parts.

I had a few clearance issues but nothing major:

Modify the water pump (not too sure exactly where i want to put my fittings yet for the heater core supply/return). I'm running poly motor mounts so I'm not sure how much the motor with torque over toward the control arm.
Nice job Blueday!
Looks right at home.

Remind me, where is your fuel pump & regulator going to be? In sump pump or external?
If I remember it right, your model, the original fuel lines ran up the driver (left) side of the frame, correct?

I can relate to the having parts scattered around the house. I used our pool table as a collection point for almost 3 years. Wife was not happy!

You are aware of the modifications to the water pump most of us are running, correct? Plugs in the end and drilled fittings at the top and bottom of the pump housing to clear the control arms. Only issue I had was the routing through the AC unit brackets.

Looking good, keep it up!
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Thanks Steve, after digging through your thread you understand the fun of finally getting over milestones. It's still unusual to open the hood and see the ls3 sitting in there.

I'm using the sending unit from an 82 and swapping the pump out for my ls3. the factory lines on my 79 route along the passenger side (3/8" & 5/16" return). There's another line on the drivers side that is 5/16" and I believe it went to the charcoal canister (previous own removed). Right now I'm planning on running new -8AN (1/2") ss braided line and putting the filter/regulator close by the tank. I'm not sure if the 1/2" is needed for the 525hp LS3 but after the GM warranty runs out I may do some head work and other stuff with the engine.

Ryan
Yeah I've seen all the c3 guys plug the water pump and drill/tap heater core connections on top. With the holley brackets it'll be really tight on top. I may try the bottom when I get my fittings in this week. Right now I have the pump line tapped and plugged, just waiting to see which location will be best. Thanks for the heads up though.
 

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Talk to me about your spreader bar.
I didn't think it would fit after the LS swap.

Thanks!!

Got some work done over the weekend thanks to a good friend.
F-body oil pan swap and dropped it in. I'm still waiting on my ecm, tcm and harness to be reworked. I plan on routing new fuel lines, trans cooler lines with aux trans cooler and after going through a couple of dorman power steering pump pulley options I just ordered a dirty dingo 5" billet pulley from them. The dorman 300-301 has the .66 hub and is about 5-5/16" od but offset is a little different and will not align. The dorman 300-126 is same hub size and 5-3/4" od is a little closer to alignment but still a little off and much closer to my control arm. I'll post some pictures a little later of clearances at the p/s pump area. I'm sure my wife's happy, I cleared out much of the extra bedroom that was/is storage for ls swap parts.








plenty of room up front:


good bit at the firewall:


decent underneath:



I had a few clearance issues but nothing major:

I had to modify the trans crossmember for 4L70E


Modify the water pump (not too sure exactly where i want to put my fittings yet for the heater core supply/return). I'm running poly motor mounts so I'm not sure how much the motor with torque over toward the control arm.




Headers fit really nice considering each car is slightly different. These things just barely touch. I'll have to "clearance" them, but still very pleased!

 

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Discussion Starter #50
Talk to me about your spreader bar.
I didn't think it would fit after the LS swap.

Thanks!!
It's a VB&P spreader bar. That's exactly how it was when the sbc was in there. I don't have any radiator hoses hooked up yet, but that's all that I could see that might interfere with it. It's also part of the reason my water pump and p/s pump is a little closer to the control arms. Let me know if you need some more info. and I'll try and dig up receipts for you.


Dang, after looking at this picture I have a ton more room up front than compared to the old 383 with the fbody serpentine setup


 

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It's a VB&P spreader bar. That's exactly how it was when the sbc was in there. I don't have any radiator hoses hooked up yet, but that's all that I could see that might interfere with it. It's also part of the reason my water pump and p/s pump is a little closer to the control arms. Let me know if you need some more info. and I'll try and dig up receipts for you.


Dang, after looking at this picture I have a ton more room up front than compared to the old 383 with the fbody serpentine setup


Yes. You do have a lot more room than I thought there would be.
If that spreader bar will fit my application, I'll get one. Otherwise, I'll build one. The way our C3 uppers are designed, this bar eliminates a lot more than most might think. :cheers:

UPDATE!
*** I just had to go check after seeing your bar. It's looking like it WILL fit, even with the LSA supercharger! (There are others out there and they won't fit). VBP is designed to work with the electric fans. Sweet.... Gotta get me one:partyon:
 

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blueday, what gear ratio are you going to be running with your 4L70E - 3.08 ? Didn't see it mentioned although I could have missed it.
 

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UPDATE!
*** I just had to go check after seeing your bar. It's looking like it WILL fit, even with the LSA supercharger! (There are others out there and they won't fit). VBP is designed to work with the electric fans. Sweet.... Gotta get me one:partyon:
Good to hear! A little pricey but I didn't have to weld anything and it bolted right up without any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I ended up with ordering a smaller from dirty dingo and put in pressure reducing spacers. For anyone looking at going the little cheaper route I listed the other pulleys I tried out from dorman. #300-301 (.66 hub, 5-5/16" od) and #300-126 (.66 hub, 5-3/4" od, similar to the smaller pulley holley offers). 300-301 had good clearance at the control arm but the hub offset was slightly different than the factory and wouldn't line up well w/out machining the hub or shims on everything else. The 300-126 was still slightly off and I wasn't comfortable with how close it was to the control arm. Also note on the 300-126 my ps pulley puller tool would not work on this one. It wouldn't fit under the notch on the hub so I had to get creative with pulling it. I've read these pulleys have worked for others so I'm not sure why my stuff was slightly off so I just went ahead and returned the dormans and ordered the dirty dingo. Hopefully this will help someone out in the future.

Dorman 300-126




300-301




Dirty Dingo


[url=https://flic.kr/p/ZctaUK]


 

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Discussion Starter #56
Back to it this weekend. I got around to drilling and tapping the water pump.





Mounted the classic auto air condenser, trans cooler and started routing new braided lines. Condenser came with some mounting plates but I ended up using the factory condenser brackets (flipped drivers side around to fit). Came out nice and clean and I didn't have to drill and new holes. I didn't really want to pull the hood.

I'm bypassing the radiator cooler (dewitts radiator) and going straight to the new cooler. Comments are welcome on the mounting and if this trans cooler will/should be sufficient for my higher stall speed. Cooler is a Derale 13403 Series 10000 Stacked Plate Transmission Oil Cooler 19 Row (37,000 BTU's Per Hour).










Barely had time to start working with the new fuel setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Does anyone have any recommendations for a trans dipstick? I bought a 4l60e dipstick and it's not lining up. I also bought a lokar trans mount and that sucker is very low and a bit close to the headers. I may try the lokar firewall mount, might be a little longer?
 
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