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Looking good, you had similar issues as I did with Power steering pulley, I went through 3 before I found one that cleared. Wish I had set my LS1 further back like you as I had to make a custom air box.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Little by little. I'm using some heat shrink type hose clamps by gates. They look nice and clean, hopefully they work well because they'll be everywhere! I ran the heater hoses as cleanly as possible with the way they stub out of the firewall with the ac lines and drier. I used two napa 9050 hoses and spliced them for the upper and lowers. The upper has my steam lines tied into it and upside down so you can't see it as much. My transmission cooler lines are routed in there with the heater hoses, you kind of have to look for them.

I also replaced the power steering control valve and cylinder (leaking and messy) while everything is torn apart and clean. Hopefully my harness will be here by the weekend and I can get the ecm, tcm, fusebox and everything routed cleanly (I'm planning for up under the pass. fender/firewall area).

Looks like I'll have to build a little drip shield for the drier (headers right below it) and have a straight pipe made from the drier to the firewall.










I also got around to putting in the oil pressure, water temp. and trans temp sensors. Autometer makes an ls kit with fittings needed and a few extra.





Plus a lokar transmission dipstick (i bought a 36" firewall mount and cut it down and cutout an aluminum mount for it). I bought a trans mount lokar dipstick but it was too short (12") and put the dipstick angled close to the header and way too low. I also tried a factory dipstick/tube but angles were off and it didn't fit.

 

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Discussion Starter #63
I was able to get moving on the new fuel lines. I demoed out all the old hard lines (supply, return, vent) and started over. Routed -6AN hose & fittings along with new 82 fuel sending unit and upgraded pump attached. I went up the drivers side and routed along side the brake line. The new reworked harness came in from tilden motor sports along with the e67 ecm from gmpp tuned w/ a used tcm so it's looking like wiring will be next on the list along with some intake/filter ideas (hopefully).













 

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Discussion Starter #64
I ran into some more problems. Long story short, I went with a 2 wire ecm controlled alternator. Come to find out the used Holley accessory bracket setup I received wasn't holley. The ac side was holley, the alternator/ps side is a c6 bracket which will only use a c6 type alternator. I had to go buy a new holley bracket along with new idler for it. For that extra cost, stripped out ps pump bolt holes (installed helicoils) and the back and forth I should've went the new route. Oh well. It's redone and back together.

For those that don't know, holley designed their bracket to use a truck type alternator which is cheaper, easier to come by and more options (ecm controlled, etc.). Pictures are just for future reference for anyone researching information. Right side is the 2 wire truck type and left is the c6 type.



20171116_194748 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr



Rough dimensions.....c6 alternator


2wire alternator


 

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Discussion Starter #65
Got the ecm, tcm and harness back from the rework a little while back and started mounting the controllers and fusebox. Gotta do a little leaning over but everything is accessible.
20171201_174806 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr


Trans crossmember holes elongated. Nice fit now.
20171112_184510 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

I started putting the front end brackets back together and had to rework my trans cooler location to make the brackets work (still had to modify 1 of them) and get the cooler hoses above the fiberglass scoop.

20171216_223449 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

20171216_223336 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

20171216_223558 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

Messing around with a cold air setup. I didn't like the old 90* and filter in the engine bay, I figured I'd try going under but didn't work as well as I would've liked, plus I'd still have to build a box for it and figure where to route some ducting from the front to it. Still an option. Other pics are of a vararam G8 cai I figured I'd try. Not enough room w/out cutting up the radiator core support or modifying the hood. I went ahead and ordered the vararam gto otr cai since it seems to work fit decent thanks to some of the guys here on the forum.

20171202_230623 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

20171203_180634 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

G8 intake....opening to the filter was partially blocked by radiator. Hood would touch the box when closed. Needs to move forward but no go. Worth a try.

20171118_140223 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

20171118_140521 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #66
here's the vararam cai for the GTO. I found it on sale for 200 shipped, hard to pass up. I'll still have to rework my upper mounting brackets for the fans and do something with the passenger side radiator bracket. The box sits right on top of the radiator hose and a little tight around the ps reservoir. I still have access to the radiator cap. I'll need to do some trimming and rebending around the front ledge to help air get shoved into it over the radiator. It still has a good size opening between the top of the radiator and the core support for air to get through.

Overall, I think this is the easiest and cleanest looking setup w/out cutting radiator core support and doing a lot of fabrication for a custom cold air intake setup.

20171219_185541 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

20171219_185644 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

20171219_184918 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

20171219_185202 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

20171219_185415 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

20171219_185310 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr

20171219_185452 by Ryan Cal, on Flickr
 

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I was able to get moving on the new fuel lines. I demoed out all the old hard lines (supply, return, vent) and started over. Routed -6AN hose & fittings along with new 82 fuel sending unit and upgraded pump attached. I went up the drivers side and routed along side the brake line. The new reworked harness came in from tilden motor sports along with the e67 ecm from gmpp tuned w/ a used tcm so it's looking like wiring will be next on the list along with some intake/filter ideas (hopefully).

Hi Blueday, I have the same setup as this, One Q: Are you using the stock fuel tank??
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Hi Blueday, I have the same setup as this, One Q: Are you using the stock fuel tank??
Yes sir, stock tank. I cut barbs off the sending unit and used compression to an fittings. Swapped over the fuel pump and bought a a pigtail plug that matches the stock sending unit connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Many thanks for the pics of the Vararam!
I ended up not liking how it fit around the passenger side radiator bracket/clamp and modifying it some. Played around with plastic welding methods and sectioned the plastic tray to fit with the factory c3 radiator bracket. I also welded some plastic tabs on the sides to mount the tray. The bottom lip where it sits in front of the radiator was awkward so I trimmed it up and bent it back some. The the passenger side bracket got modified some to pull it in away from the vararam tray and addressed my fan mounting too. I'll clean up and paint the tray and work on sealing it more to the hood when I'm done with the swap.

I also soldered up the aluminum maf mount to the 4" tubing and painted which finishes up my cold air intake side of things. Onto wiring!











 

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Yes sir, stock tank. I cut barbs off the sending unit and used compression to an fittings. Swapped over the fuel pump and bought a a pigtail plug that matches the stock sending unit connector.
OK a couple of things here I need to point out because I doubt this setup will work:

The connection from the pump to the pipe must be barbed and must be INTERNAL fuel pipe type ONLY, any other will be eaten by the fuel and burst.

You will then get fuel starvation on cornering when the tank is about half full because the pump pick up is too small, you need to get a bigger pickup matt such as the Holley Hydromats https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/hydramats/

Hope this saves you a bit of headache later :)
 

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Discussion Starter #74
OK a couple of things here I need to point out because I doubt this setup will work:

The connection from the pump to the pipe must be barbed and must be INTERNAL fuel pipe type ONLY, any other will be eaten by the fuel and burst.

You will then get fuel starvation on cornering when the tank is about half full because the pump pick up is too small, you need to get a bigger pickup matt such as the Holley Hydromats https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/hydramats/

Hope this saves you a bit of headache later :)

I should've clarified. I used the compression an fittings on the connections at the top of the sending unit (outside the tank). The new higher pressure fuel pump itself is hooked up exactly like the stock pump was (w/ fuel tank rated hose, extension wiring). I did not modify any tubing inside the fuel tank. I did look into the holley mats a while back. I figure I will try it like this and install the holley mat later on if I have issues when cornering and such. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I'm curious as to the air supply for your intake. Will it be pulling air from over the radiator? It looks like your box seals to the hood. I want to do something different with mine. It does the typical 90. I'm guessing the AIT is not optimal.
Thanks,
Scott
Yes it will. The picture below shows the opening between the core support and the top of the radiator. I have an L88 hood and the seal on top of the core support doesn't actually seal all the way up to the center part of the hood/scoop area. So I guess the air will travel over it too until I seal off either the box to hood or the radiator support to hood. You can see the scoop is just about on top of the filter too.

I'm not sure what my ecm will do with the maf being so close to the throttle body (doesn't meet the dimensions gm recommends). I guess we shall find out soon enough.
 

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Very Nice Work by You.

After all the LS Swaps No one has built a Cowl Induction Or True Ram Air Layout with Rain water drains to pull cool outside air in through the Hood on a C3.

Fab not from Plastic but Sheet metal Aluminum & sheet metal brake & TIG weld together.

I can see a friend of mine doing it.
Ed.
He has done lots of one of Race Car fabrication the last couple of years.
Boost & Turbo cars his specialty.
 

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I ended up not liking how it fit around the passenger side radiator bracket/clamp and modifying it some. Played around with plastic welding methods and sectioned the plastic tray to fit with the factory c3 radiator bracket. I also welded some plastic tabs on the sides to mount the tray. The bottom lip where it sits in front of the radiator was awkward so I trimmed it up and bent it back some. The the passenger side bracket got modified some to pull it in away from the vararam tray and addressed my fan mounting too. I'll clean up and paint the tray and work on sealing it more to the hood when I'm done with the swap.

I also soldered up the aluminum maf mount to the 4" tubing and painted which finishes up my cold air intake side of things. Onto wiring!
Glad I found this, as I plan to do an LS swap on my 78. In doing my due diligence, I've seen many intakes with an elbow to a K&N cone type filter. Is there a reason you didn't go that route? I know you didn't like the filter down in front.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Glad I found this, as I plan to do an LS swap on my 78. In doing my due diligence, I've seen many intakes with an elbow to a K&N cone type filter. Is there a reason you didn't go that route? I know you didn't like the filter down in front.
I had a few reasons not to do the 90. Mainly I was worried about engine heat. If I went on the drivers side it was right above the radiator hose. Either way I didn't see many options to get cold air into either side and didn't not want to deal with building a box to keep hot air out (not much room for a box either).
 

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I think I could build something Very Nice with bud Ed.
We would need a C3 with an LS engine swap already done.
Make Templates.
Aluminum Sheetmetal Fab.
Put a Defusser - rain water drain in like the old Ram Air GTO's & 1st & 2nd Ram Air 400's 1st gen birds had.
2nd Gen Formula Birds had the best Ram Air Layout 1970-1975.

NASCAR Built Very Nice Air Boxes.
Seen a few for sale time to time.
Baseline of my ideas.
Not easy to build gotta have the right shop tool gear.

Not many C3 LS swaps around here.
A ton of C4 Corvettes running around Joliet. Has to be close to 100.
C5-C7 at least 10,000 cars.
 

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Yes sir the holley setup.
I've been following for some time, I'm working a similar swap LS3, 1981, Tremec 6 speed. Getting close to the point where I need to get the accessory drive brackets figured out. Believe I read that you are using the Holley brackets, does that include the bracket for the A/C compressor? Keep the updates coming, very helpful!

Does your car have the drivers side power seat? If so, I'd be interested in how you routed the exhaust (drivers side) around the seat pan. On my 81 the seat pan is considerably lower than the pass side. Or did you go with side exhaust?

Your build looks very good BTW
 
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