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Classic1275cc I just realized I didn't answer your question regarding lifting the body with the front bumper cover attached. The short answer is that I don't think I'd try it. That doesn't mean it can't be done, but I'm personally not comfortable with the risk of breaking something.
 

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Classic1275cc - Had a little brain fade last night. I may have implied that it could be possible to lift the body with the front bumper cover attached. You can't. Here's why:

Of the 4 bolts on each side of the frame nose, 2 hold the fiberglass bumper braces and 2 hold the crash bar. Moving further forward, the bolts on the bumper side of the fiberglass braces cannot be accessed because the bolt goes in through the honeycomb from the front. The bumper cover prevents access. Likewise, there are 2 bolts that secure the center of the honeycomb to the large plate on the front of the crash bar. They also go in from the front and the bumper cover prevents access to them as well. The honeycomb "form fits" inside the bumper cover and therefore becomes part of the bumper cover.

The bumper cover is attached to the front fenders and center section with 10 (I believe it was) 3/8" Hex 10-24 SEMS nuts. There are also attachment points on each side of the bumper cover using 3 fasteners. With all the bumper cover fasteners in place, the bumper cover essentially becomes part of the front fender and center section.

So, with all the extraneous parts removed from below (air dams, air deflector, coffee can, etc), and DON'T remove the front body mount, lets say you remove the 4 bolts on each frame nose. When the bolts are out, the entire weight of the bumper cover, honeycomb, and especially the crash bar, are suddenly borne through the front body mount by the glue joints that attach the front fenders to the cowl. Something will probably break and your project suddenly gets much more complicated.

But what if you remove the bolt in the front body mount? It won't help at all. In this case the entire weight noted above will pass through the honeycomb into the bumper cover (remember the honeycomb is form fitted inside the cover) and through the bumper cover attachment fasteners and finally into the front fenders and the aforementioned glue joints.

Even if nothing broke, it would make handling the body VERY difficult. I strongly advise not trying it. The crash bar by itself is a handful to get back on.

You will find it is not all that difficult to remove the cover although a couple of the fasteners require a bit of gymnastics. You will need a 1/4" drive 3/8" deep socket, a u-joint, and a variety of extensions. If you open the headlights and remove the fairings from around the lamps, there are a couple of the nuts you can reach from there, but it's not absolutely necessary. It also helps to squirt down the fasteners (they are studs coming from the cover) with some penetrate and let them soak for a bit. I've never broken a stud, but try not to. It's quite a bit of work to replace a broken stud.

I attached a pdf with some info about the front assembly. One of the pages shows the mysterious "13.12" dimension to the front body mount. I checked every dimension on the frame including the reference holes. I checked every dimension from the floor to frame. I could not find anything even remotely close to the "13.12". I have a lot of experience in calibration of aircraft assembly fixtures but could not crack the code on this one. I'm reasonably sure it references some surface on an assembly jig. I'm really going to be embarrassed if I missed something simple! In any case, I advise measuring the top body mount surface to some point on the frame before loosening the crash bar bolts.

Good luck, and keep us advised! Oh, I happened to think, this thread has gotten pretty far away from the title. Might be a good idea for you to start a new thread about your build, that way everything is covered under one roof.

Cheers!
 

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