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Hi all,
My 1998 corvette headlights will not close. I have checked the fuses 8,9 and 10. No luck. This morning I noticed that I also don’t have dash lights. But cruise control still works.I cleaned the 2 grounds and replaced the 3 fuses. Where should I check next?
If you are having problems with a missing ground at the motor connectors and you have tried 2 controllers you could verify the integrity of that ground and make sure that pin D in connector C2 hasn't expanded.
 

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If you are having problems with a missing ground at the motor connectors and you have tried 2 controllers you could verify the integrity of that ground and make sure that pin D in connector C2 hasn't expanded.
When measuring voltage on the motor ground wires, when operating the switch from on to off and back, what is the voltage reading for each state of the switch? If you read my posts above about the two wire swap of the old three wire motors, i had the same issues but the "ground" wires would swap between battery voltage and just a little below 12 at about 11.4. I used two multimeters to monitor both at the same time.

The problem is in the ground distribution in the controller reversing relay and I will be testing it to find out if that is the issue. I was kinda surprised to have found an ice cube relay inside the unit instead of solid state. I will let y'all know what I find as we obtained two controllers from a junk yard and both did the same thing even after making sure the ground was good. Now I'll be able to see if the relay is switching without the grounds floating.

If I find the issue and can fix it, maybe a cottage business may be in order.

BTW, the second schematic works perfectly for our needs. The worst that can happen is to replace the plastic gears inside the motor but as this is for racing only, the need to make them work is very limited.

Passive circuit component Circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic instrument Computer hardware
 

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If you are having problems with a missing ground at the motor connectors and you have tried 2 controllers you could verify the integrity of that ground and make sure that pin D in connector C2 hasn't expanded.
I am doing a complete rewiring of an 84 for racing purposes but the class requires the headlights to function as it normally would in a stock/street scenario. We swapped out the original three wire motors to the later two wire in addition to replacing the three relay bank with the later controller found in a junk yard. I have also attached a screen cap of the new wiring schematics as installed now.
The entire dash has been replaced with a formed sheet metal replica and the original digital dash has been removed and replaced with analog gauges and all Honeywell NT MIL-SPEC style toggles.

The doors will open but they will not close and I suspect the control module as all the input voltages and switching are correct as per the factory schematic but it is the outputs from the four pin connector to the motors that I see what I consider a problem. When I have the switch in one position or the other, one of the wires for each motor shows a solid 12VDC but the other one shows a voltage of about 11.4VDC and I was expecting to see 0.

To me it seems the internal solid state coil/switch is not functioning correctly. We did have another controller bought at the same time from the same yard and it does exactly the same.

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View attachment 106387
 
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