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I am telling you all this car right here is about to become something truly special..



This car is getting a lot. But one thing we do not have to do anything about is these brakes. Standard issue C6 Z06 brake parts. Not just are they huge and powerful but they can be locally sourced and don't have to be ordered like with the aftermarket upgrades..



Underneath we can see the only picture we will ever see of the factory exhaust..

 

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The transmission in the 2011 Grand Sport is the automatic 6 speed 6L80E. It does come with a rather large converter..



Unfortunately as the torque tube comes out and apart we see some damage. It really looks like something forced the shaft forward..







This has indeed destroyed the torque tube and it will not be re used. While there was no catastrophic failure and the car was dropped off running, it was imminent..



 

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This morning we started with a fresh torque tube and swapped couplers with these awesome aluminum 6 shooter semi solid couplers from prothane..



I installed a set of these in my C5 and life has been real good since. This will be the real test of these couplers. Here is the shaft with couplers installed and ready to go back into the new tube..







These couplers are a touch thicker than the original couplers were and so it is a good idea to change the bolts that hold the coupler to the aluminum shaft on both ends. 6 bolts. 60mm length. 12mm x 1.75.
 

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With the torque tube back together and out of the way we can turn our focus back to teardown and getting the motor out of the car..





And now the teardown is complete and we can officially begin to build this street driven racecar. Here is our starting point..



And from the back..

 

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First up we need to get the motor. Lately I have been seam welding a LS swapped Miata and the motor is currently buried behind a dismantled mazda..



The troubling part about the above picture is I am going to finish this car long before the Miata is back together and I am very much going to need this room empty for the dyno tuning of the racecar I am currently building. But we will cross that bridge when we get there. For now we need to get the harmonic balancer off the LSX motor. It was damaged in the accident and must be replaced..



This balancer is 10 rib and 10% overdrive. We are not using a 10 rib belt currently but do not want to have to re buy this balancer to upgrade later because they are so expensive. Making the next picture just sad..



But if that is the worst that happened to the motor in the accident it was in then we are all in good shape. And it really is looking that way. We will find out very soon.
 

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Time to shine! Look at this exhaust. American Racing Headers(ARH) 2" primaries into 3" collector and no cats the best flowing they offer for the C6..



ARH headers all come with long scavenger spikes to help the merge point of the collector. Here are a couple pictures of that..



 

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And here is the DeWitts radiator that is going in. This radiator is awesome and has both the trans cooler(TOC) and the oil cooler(EOC)..



And here are the oil cooler lines and also the quick connect fittings for the radiator..

 

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This morning we got the old LS3 removed from the sub frame and mounted to an engine stand..



And we got the LSX motor off of it's stand and mounted to the sub frame..

 

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For the last car this motor was in we had to use different knock sensors and I drilled out the holes from m8x1.25 to m10x1.5. Well now we need to go back the other way. No drilling is needed here. Simply run the tap into the holes..



Then we run in the helicoil with a bunch of red thread locker..



Once the threads are installed and the tab broken off and removed from the hole I like to shoot compressed air to blow away all the excess thread locker and then run a long bolt all the way in the hole loaded with anti seize. These are the new threads..



And now the correct knock sensor can be torqued down to 18 ft-lbs..

 

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I installed and torqued down the C7 corvette flexplate bolts to 37 then 74 ft-lbs. This part is the magic that will allow the 8 bolt LSA crankshaft to connect to a c5/c6..



Installed and torqued down the LS1 water pump bolts to 11 ft-lbs and then 22 ft-lbs. In builds past I have broken down water pumps to install custom wider pulleys for the wider belts but in the end we have found that it is just better to build around an old LS1 water pump. GM made them to fit in multiple applications so they just had this abnormally large pulley on them that is just perfect for a 10 rib belt without any modification or further purchase past the pump itself..



With the engine lift plate removed and before the valley cover goes on we can see one of the great features of the LSX block. These windows that allow access to the lifters do not exist on the aluminum blocks..



And that valley cover gets torqued down as well. They are all m8x1.25 bolts and got torqued to 18 ft-lbs..



With all the rags removed and just before the intake goes on we can see how well these LSX heads flow. I mean those intake ports are huge..



The intake manifold gets torqued to just 89 in-lbs. and even that is in 2 steps. 44 then 89..

 

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The headers are on and the motor is ready to go in the vehicle. But before we lower the car I just had to take these last pictures..



The exhaust header bolts were torqued to 15 ft-lbs..



This motor just looks so attractive to me. Those are 80lb injectors, btw..

 

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The subframe has been reunited with the car with the LSX376-B15..





And then we got the torque tube installed..



We have a special converter coming for this car. but it is not here yet so for now I will turn my focus to setting up the power adder and coolers. Here is my starting point for all that..

 

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You're really moving. That would have been a months work for me.:laughing: That's really looking great. 80# injectors......think that's enough? They should be good for a bit of boost. Mine are only 42# weaklings.
 

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Nice Wiz
 

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We got started on the fuel supply modification. C5/C6 corvettes use 1 pump with a transfer jet system to handle fuel supply with 2 saddle tanks. Special care must be taken is upgrading this system to keep the proper functionality of the transfer jet. For this we will be working with only the LH side tank. Here is that tank removed from the car..



These cars are known for problems with the fuel sender creating vapor leaks and this car was suffering from that. Here we can see the cracks and all the moisture that has collected dirt from the fuel vapor escaping the tank over a period of time..



These are just plastic tanks and as such it is not uncommon to struggle to get the fuel sender out of the precisely sized hole that has changed dimensions slightly over the years. Sometimes the fuel sender must be broken down in the tank and then some wires attached to the bucket for extraction. Here is a helpful picture for any who dare change a fuel pump on a C6 Corvette..



We will be replacing this sender with a drop in unit from Lingenfelter..

 

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The Lingenfelter pump is nice because it uses a turbine style 450lph pump but the bottom of the bucket is still in tact and not butchered..



This is important for running the car at lower fuel levels as there is a one way valve at the bottom of the bucket that lets fuel in and not out. With the Lingenfelter solution we get to have a turbine fuel pump and still keep the correct factory intended functionality of our fuel system. There is just one thing I am not so happy with about this pump. And that is it uses the factory connector and pins..



High amp draw devices have a way of finding the weak link in an electrical chain. And speaking of links in a chain this pump has 2 connections inside the tank and 2 connections outside the tank just for power to make it to the pump. I feel a very strong need to upgrade the power and ground connections for this pump and this car. So I will eliminate and hardwire this connection from the pump to the sub harness inside the tank..



I drilled and tapped a hole in a carefully chosen location on the lid to accommodate a m6x1.0 bolt..



Then I attached a 12ga and a 16ga wire to a long bolt..



Then I take the 2 wires in the sub harness inside the tank, both power and ground..



I cut them and splice them together and connect them to the power wire for the pump..



Then I cut and splice both wires together in the sub harness outside the tank..



This will greatly strengthen the power and ground connection to this pump. Here is the fuel sender ready to go back in the tank..

 

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At the fuel pump connection in the main harness I will cut both wires a few inches back from the connector..



I will splice these wires together and with a 12ga wire and then add it to the main harness all the way back up to the underhood fuse box..



ground connections will be made to the frame rail at the tank so it is as short as possible. And the 12ga red wire will go to a relay, maxi fuse, and boost a pump.
 

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That's what I did on my Walbro pump. I ran a fused 10 gauge wire back to the tank and installed a relay back there to power the pump. I used the factory wiring to the pump to energize the 40 amp relay. Good catch.:thumbsup:
 
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