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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
.25" yoke end play And what exactly do I do to raise the diff? doesn't look like 3/4"

Heres the end play



I don't see how you can get 3/4 of an inch.





Also will it hit the tunnel?



And here is my roll cage welds. Cant really see anything.I'll take better pics tomorrow.

 

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I couldn't open that video but if you have more then 1/4" that's something you have to look into. Probably worn past the snap ring, they fell into the diff, the yokes continued to wear. Once you're past .030" the case hardening is done and it's soft metal that will wear againt the hardened cross shaft. You have to check to see if the yoke is hitting the housing where the seal is, if so then you'll have to see how far it's worn. If past the 1/8" boss you may have a problem.
If you plan on racing this car you better be sure that diff is in good shape or it is not going to last.
 

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Well to do it right does cost more then a typical repair. Interestingly there is a thread elsewhere I just saw and I was mentioned as being pricy. What many do not understand, and not just with my work, is the invlovement with the job. Mike( tracdogg) certainly knows this but many others don't.

For example,

Open up any vette magazine or go online and you'll see differentials for exchange or rebuilt for $500-$800. When asked why my work runs $1500 on average it does sound like I'm over-priced. Keep in mind I'm using myself as an example - I'm not fishing for work.

Now let's look at the jobs and see what's up with them. The jobs I see advertised and the jobs I've seen pictures of done from other places are basic to say the least. Some places list out all the parts that come in a master kit to build up the job - I do not. I'll list a master kit period.
Along with a master kit a set of clutches are usually installed and that's a good thing. Now the type of clutch used is not listed and there are 3 for a C2 or C3's - slotted, solid, or fiber. I only use the solids and have nothing good to say about the other 2.

At this point the advertised jobs end for parts. Yokes, R&P, spiders, case, solid sleeve and steel cap(if they even install them) are not included. Add up those costs and labor related to them and you can see the difference. My jobs include Tom's gears, Lone Star yokes, a drain plug, cleaned, blasted, POR15'd, top-coated finish, tuned and polished posi(5 hrs alone). Tom's is the only place I see that does this so you could see what those go for on line. I'm guessing if a local shop or vendor quoted this type of job it would cost close to $3k- maybe more considering what I've been told by guys who were quoted after their unit was at a shop.

Now this is not to say a std rebuild is a bad thing, not trying to PO any vendors out there, it's just not the same job. You get what you pay for. I usually turn down requests for these types of jobs as it's not how I would do it for my own cars. I could probably do a std job like those in the same range, may be less- but it's not what I would want to stamp my name in- which I do.

OK enough of this rant you can look up at the sticky for more info. My point is to think about what you are planning to do. Racing costs a lot of money and breaks parts. I'm not or have ever been a racer but Howard sure would know what should be used in your application and the costs. I don't know any way it could be done cheap- unless you buy the parts and do the work.

Even then, if you went with all the HD parts for a 10 bolt, you would have to fit them. Look at my post on fitting a steel cap on a job I did a few weeks ago, no way it could have been done without a grinder and mill.

Good luck, shoot some brake cleaner on the posi case and clean off the CS hole. Then shoot it again and see if you have any cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
1500 dollars :surprised Theres no way I can afford that.

Looks like I'll be doing it myself. This one guy my dad knows can help me do it.
 

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Again, I wasn't looking for a job. I was only givng you an example of the various ways the job can be done and the levels. Can you do it yourself?? Will your local guy? I dunno, but all the info is here to help.

Good luck.
 

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Oh man, Gary is hussling kids for their lunch money now :rolling: :rolling: :laughing: :D :smack
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Again, I wasn't looking for a job. I was only givng you an example of the various ways the job can be done and the levels. Can you do it yourself?? Will your local guy? I dunno, but all the info is here to help.

Good luck.
I was just surprised at the cost to pay someone to rebuild it. Either you or someone else.

How much is your kit?

This guy rebuild my dad's dif for like 100 bucks. My dad has known him for like 30 years and he is one of my dad's brothers best friends. He also has a machine shop. I don't know about a surface grinder.
 

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100$ for that youn get some oil mixed with wood pulp to take care of the noise. Seriously, you can't rebuild one of these things for 100$.
 

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Oh man, Gary is hussling kids for their lunch money now :rolling: :rolling: :laughing: :D :smack

I know and I'm getting too old to pick them up by their ankles anymore- bad back!:laughing: Maybe I should branch out and hit up the European kids next, what do you think!!;) Those 60's lunch boxes are collectors items now too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm not sure if that was the price but I know it was pretty cheap.

He knows pretty much everything. Kind of like you or gary. He also helped rebuild my motor. He has the fancy mic's and stuff.

He will rebuild a th400 for 100 bucks though.
 

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Yeah I'll try to get it apart today.

Sounds expensive :surprised
Don't take it apart!. Just pull the cover off, clean it up a little and take some pics and post here. Once you remove the bearing caps and pull out the original shims, you start down the road.....See what you have first.
 

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Look in any vendor site and you'll be able to gauge what parts are going for. Diff and trailing arm parts went up 3 x in the past 12-18 months. CR seals were bought out by SKF and the price went up, Timkens went up once maybe twice.

If you want pm me what you need and I'll price it for you.

$100 is not going to get you a master kit and basic clutch kit. Maybe one side yoke but no seal.
 

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Wow, for 100$? LOL hire that guy, have him do them all day long.. it's a gold mine!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Don't take it apart!. Just pull the cover off, clean it up a little and take some pics and post here. Once you remove the bearing caps and pull out the original shims, you start down the road.....See what you have first.
Yeah thats what I meant




I can also get parts from GM wholesale

How much is their rebuild kit?
 

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Yeah thats what I meant




I can also get parts from GM wholesale

How much is their rebuild kit?
Not sure GM sells a complete kit anymore you can check. If they do it will cost more. Another example, a posi shim kit alone goes for about $25, at least the ones I have do.The are 2 shims from .010-.045" in .005 increments. GM lists each shim they still may have for around $5-8.
If you have a local guy with a shop then maybe he'll have access to parts but be careful of what you get, cheap price often means cheap quality. Seals are a very good example.

Ok I'm done for today, Have fun, post some pictures.

TT, I'm thinking about parking meters too, what do you think? Ever see Cool hand luke?
 

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hehe.....I got a parking meter from DC on my mailbox post down here...that meter must be over 40 years old now....
 

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GM Wholesale won't be much help here. They don't supply most of the parts that are needed. Other than Gary and me I don't know of anyone that has a complete rebuild kit that has everything you need, nothing you don't need, and all the best parts. At the very least you are looking at new clutches, new stub axles, cross shaft, bearings, and 20-25 hrs of experienced labor.
But for a $100 it should be an easy bubba fix.:devil:
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just checked today and everything is in great condition. Ring and pinion set up correctly also.

They aren't mushroomed at all.
 
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