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plan on making my 69 350 vette into a 383 . would like some info on this what to look for and dos and donts as for as buying assembleys. plan on torque motor instead of high rpm
would appreciate all input

thanks
billy c. eva
 

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are you going to use your existing 350 block? If not, I would look into a 400 block- they can be purchased for pretty much the same price and offer more cubes.

Biggest thing with any stroker is making sure you have all the clearances you need, and the rotating assembly is propperly internally balanced. You may also need to look into a small base circle cam depending on your crank/rod combo.
 

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The hardest part is clearancing the block. U probably want a machine or engine shop do that. Some rods require more clearance than others, so picking the right rotating assembly will make a difference. Make sure you put the cam in and that the rods don't hit it.
396 is a good idea, but it is trickier and will cost more than a 383.
Dart came out with a new high performance block called SHP which doesn't require any clearancing and is stronger than a stock block. U can build over 400 inches with it. It will take a hydraulic roller cam using factory lifters. It is going for about $1500 right now with is a good deal. Think about this if your existing block is not numbers matching to the car. Match this with some dart pro 1 heads and it will keep a smile on your face. :thumbsup:
 

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The clearancing is minimal if you stay with mild street parts. Little bit of oil pan rail clearancing and occasionally a rod bolt, the kind of thing you can do with a corded drill.

If you're not hung up on the 350 block it's pretty much the same money to go 400. For a low RPM street torquer it's hard to beat the value of a mild 400.

If you're building a street engine that lives under 6k rpm, don't be afraid of cast cranks, short 400 rods, or external balancing. They'll work just fine and may save bucks up front, depending. The market's kinda flipped now that cheap chineese cranks are available, sometimes new is cheaper than used. However, I would trust a turned original 400 crank much more than an unproven $200 chineese special.

One of the best things about a 400 is at street rpm, you can just rebuild the engine you got and don't have to mess with deciding about custom cranks etc. Never ever use an old 400 balancer, always buy new.

good luck.
 

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383 and 396 cost exactly the same on quality forged rotating kits from www.flatlanderracing.com

I just did a 350 main journal size 3.875 X 4.130 415 ci In a Dart SHP Even with a 3.750 X 4.125 Using big ARP 7/16th rod bolts you have to remove an excessive amount of metal from the pan rails clear down to the bottom of the cylinder bores. It is easier to do a stock block

Machined and prepped SHP stroker blocks sell for about $2600 because of the amount of man hours invested in them.

I would only recommend the SHP for relatively milder performance builds using Callies type stroker rods. Like maybe sub 600 HP builds. They are stronger that a stock block, but not designed for powerful stroker motors

If you want a stroker motor just buy the bigger Dart or Motown made for 4 inch stroker cranks and save the $1000 in Man hours.
 

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I've been following this thread and one question still eludes. The question is what kind of HP/TQ are you looking for, and the reason I ask this is will your Trans, Diff, Suspension hold the power you're currently seeking. It would suck to have good size HP/TQ numbers and not be able to plant them to the ground cause of weak parts. Just something to think on. Goodluck on whatever you decied:thumbsup:
 

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I've been following this thread and one question still eludes. The question is what kind of HP/TQ are you looking for, and the reason I ask this is will your Trans, Diff, Suspension hold the power you're currently seeking. It would suck to have good size HP/TQ numbers and not be able to plant them to the ground cause of weak parts. Just something to think on. Goodluck on whatever you decied:thumbsup:
:agree:

In order to properly answer your question we really need to know what your goals and expectations are as well as the mods to your drive train. reason being is like 72SBVet said your drivetrain might not take the shock that a hot motor can give.

SO that said what is the current state of your drive train (ex: my vette has big block 3 inch short shafts, forged spicer u joints, poly trans and engine mounts, a 200r4 built to stage 2 specs that will withstand 700hp 690 tq with a trans shield and drive shaft loop. my motor is making around 425 at the flywheel and 2 stages of giggly juice 150 and 200 shot )

Will your drivetrain being your trans hold what your wanting to throw at it, same with u joints and shafts.

Basically you will only be as good as your weakest link/part/component so if you give us the specs on your hp/tq expectations, current drivetrain state we can steer you down the correct path of choices as there are many things to think about other then just what crank or how to clearance the block, none of that hp/tq will be any good if you cant plant it to the pavement:cheers:
 
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