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I'm going to re-build my 1980ish motor to a 383 soon and since I have never done this before I'd thought I'd list all the parts I have picked out so you gurus can tell me if something is drastically wrong. I'm looking for around 500hp at the crank with a 10-11 compression ratio.

Stock block bored .030
Eagle stroker rotating assembly kit - Cast, -5cc flat top pistons (What do I do for seal, 1PC or 2PC? External/Internal balance?)
Dart Iron Eagle heads- 215cc Intake runners, 64cc combustion chambers, 2.05/1.06 valves, .69 max lift (Does this mean max cam lift, or max cam lift multiplied by the rocker arm ratio?)
Roller Retrofit lifters
Rocker arms (What ratio?)
Hydraulic roller cam (haven't picked yet, not sure)
RPM air gap intake
800cfm Carb
Other items - pushrods, pumps, pan, timing chain, etc.

I also read that I will need a cam button to hold the cam back. Will an aluminum timing cover hold well enough to do this?
 

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I'm going to re-build my 1980ish motor to a 383 soon and since I have never done this before I'd thought I'd list all the parts I have picked out so you gurus can tell me if something is drastically wrong. I'm looking for around 500hp at the crank with a 10-11 compression ratio.

Stock block bored .030
Eagle stroker rotating assembly kit - Cast, -5cc flat top pistons (What do I do for seal, 1PC or 2PC? External/Internal balance?)
Dart Iron Eagle heads- 215cc Intake runners, 64cc combustion chambers, 2.05/1.06 valves, .69 max lift (Does this mean max cam lift, or max cam lift multiplied by the rocker arm ratio?)
Roller Retrofit lifters
Rocker arms (What ratio?)
Hydraulic roller cam (haven't picked yet, not sure)
RPM air gap intake
800cfm Carb
Other items - pushrods, pumps, pan, timing chain, etc.

I also read that I will need a cam button to hold the cam back. Will an aluminum timing cover hold well enough to do this?

Here is what I will tell you.

The one piece seal is on all 87 and later 350 blocks. The pre 86 all have a two piece seal. So exactly what year is your block?

Stick with a hyd roller cam if you run on the street. They are good till about .700 lift and have the least care required. Solid rollers require constant relashing of valves.

The max lift is stated applies to the lift after the rocker ratio. So that will figure into your rocker selection of 1.52, 1.6 or 1.7 rockers. I would stick with the 1.52 or 1.6's depending on your cam selection.

FYI a 383 will be externally balanced.

I hope that answers your questions.
 

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I'm going to re-build my 1980ish motor to a 383 soon and since I have never done this before I'd thought I'd list all the parts I have picked out so you gurus can tell me if something is drastically wrong. I'm looking for around 500hp at the crank with a 10-11 compression ratio.

Stock block bored .030
Eagle stroker rotating assembly kit - Cast, -5cc flat top pistons (What do I do for seal, 1PC or 2PC? External/Internal balance?)
Dart Iron Eagle heads- 215cc Intake runners, 64cc combustion chambers, 2.05/1.06 valves, .69 max lift (Does this mean max cam lift, or max cam lift multiplied by the rocker arm ratio?)
Roller Retrofit lifters
Rocker arms (What ratio?)
Hydraulic roller cam (haven't picked yet, not sure)
RPM air gap intake
800cfm Carb
Other items - pushrods, pumps, pan, timing chain, etc.

I also read that I will need a cam button to hold the cam back. Will an aluminum timing cover hold well enough to do this?
I think your going about this without thinking it thru correctly, you DON,T start with a list of parts randomly selected, you start with a GOAL, for the engine that matches your cars intended use!
you need to answer a few questions

will you run pump gas octane?

will you need to pass emission testing?

what transmission and rear gear ratio do you have?

is the car going to be a weekend toy or a daily driver?

will you expect to make long trips in the car?

are accessories like air conditioning remaining functional important?

will you expect the car to drive in stop and go traffic without issues

what do you want to do with the car once its complete?

do you have a place to do the work?

do you have the skills and tools to do the work?

do you have the TIME TO DO THE WORK?

whats your realistic budget and time frame?

do you have transportation while the cars being worked on?

If you don,t truthfully answer those questions, and understand the limitations the answers will place on the project, your going about this in a way thats very likely to fail

Ive build hundreds of engines and I can assure you, it ALWAYS COSTS MORE AND TAKES LONGER THAN YOU EXPECT GOING INTO THE PROJECT


look we ALL start out this way, yes IM only too well aware that 90% of the guys won,t take the effort to read thru the links and sub-links, thats one reason why a great many projects fail to meet expectations, its a general lack of complete understanding of which parts need to be selected and how those components work or won,t work together.
but it helps a great deal to learn from the mistakes others have made in the past, so you don,t repeat them
take the time to read thru these links it will save you weeks of work and thousands of dollars in wasted cash

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3404

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=489

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1249

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2709

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=339

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=3156
 

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Stroker rotating assemblies (at least the better quality pieces) are available internally balanced. This is preferred. 215 cc heads may be a little big, but will work. You will need a cam in the 236/242 range to get 500 fwhp. Despite what the countless magazine ads say, it is hard to get a 383 near or above 500 fwhp and still be street-worthy. A stiff timing cover, either aluminum or steel, is required for a thrust button.

P.S. Listen to Grumpy.
 

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you can have internally balanced 383 rotating assemblies, i have one in my garage, you just have to make sure you have a neutral balance damper and flexplate/flywheel.

i would recommend at the very least hyperutectic pistons, they are not much more costly than cast but offer a lot more strength/durability. at 500hp you can get away with it, but i would consider forged just in case you get the itch to ad a little more hp.

why cast iron heads? aluminumn heads are not much more expensive than iron heads, and offer several performance benefits- such as increased tolerance to detonation, reduced weight, ect.

will need more information on your build before i can offer much more advice to you

*grumpy beat me to it while i was typing lol

oh, also when you have your block machined if it turns out it needs a lot of work, it migh not be a bad idea to start with a fresh block. personally i am a big fan of 400 based engines and feel they have gotten a bad rep because of terible engine builders.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone, I got my questions answered. Cost/skill/time isn't an issue. I chose iron heads because the weight doesn't matter to me. I've somewhat read through grumpy's stuff already, and thought I had matched parts fine, but I thought I would ask before actually buying.

I guess my goal is to have an engine that will allow my car to beat most modern production sports cars in a drag race. If I get to 500hp great, if I don't that's ok too. Having some street-ability is preferred. I don't want a radical engine build that needs a 3500+ stall converter.
 

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Thanks everyone, I got my questions answered. Cost/skill/time isn't an issue. I chose iron heads because the weight doesn't matter to me. I've somewhat read through grumpy's stuff already, and thought I had matched parts fine, but I thought I would ask before actually buying.

I guess my goal is to have an engine that will allow my car to beat most modern production sports cars in a drag race. If I get to 500hp great, if I don't that's ok too. Having some street-ability is preferred. I don't want a radical engine build that needs a 3500+ stall converter.
I would say you probably would not be beating most modern cars, but you would make it a close race. There are a lot of people with the modern cars that modify them just as you are yours.
 

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Thanks everyone, I got my questions answered. Cost/skill/time isn't an issue. I chose iron heads because the weight doesn't matter to me. I've somewhat read through grumpy's stuff already, and thought I had matched parts fine, but I thought I would ask before actually buying.

I guess my goal is to have an engine that will allow my car to beat most modern production sports cars in a drag race. If I get to 500hp great, if I don't that's ok too. Having some street-ability is preferred. I don't want a radical engine build that needs a 3500+ stall converter.
The new Camaro SS, Mustang GT and Challenger Hemi will surely clean your clock if you can't put down at least 400 rwhp..(about 480-500 fwhp). For insurance, I would look at at least 406 c.i.....427 small block if the budget allows. (Just spending your money...ha ha)
 

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The new Camaro SS, Mustang GT and Challenger Hemi will surely clean your clock if you can't put down at least 400 rwhp..(about 480-500 fwhp). For insurance, I would look at at least 406 c.i.....427 small block if the budget allows. (Just spending your money...ha ha)
this may be a dumb question but why would he get his clock cleaned by these cars? the only one that might put down 400rwhp is the Challenger but that things a tank. i would think with a mild stroker and the right gears his car wouldnt have much of a problem with these car in their stock condition.
 

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this may be a dumb question but why would he get his clock cleaned by these cars? the only one that might put down 400rwhp is the Challenger but that things a tank. i would think with a mild stroker and the right gears his car wouldnt have much of a problem with these car in their stock condition.
There are literally dozens of cars being produced today (not counting exotics) that run in the mid-12's on up to the 13's running stock tires. Even a handful of stock ricers can surprise you. The Caddilac CTS-V is 553 hp! The Camaro SS is 430hp. The Mustang GT is 515, IIRC. These are NET hp numbers. Also, don't forget these cars have traction control, which can help on launch. Both the Mustang and Camaro have 300 hp Six cylinder models that run in the mid-14's. It's a different world today with the fuel injected engine technology. Many of the new cars are either supercharged or turbocharged. If you want to play with them.....build accordingly.
 

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There are literally dozens of cars being produced today (not counting exotics) that run in the mid-12's on up to the 13's running stock tires. Even a handful of stock ricers can surprise you. The Caddilac CTS-V is 553 hp! The Camaro SS is 430hp. The Mustang GT is 515, IIRC. These are NET hp numbers. Also, don't forget these cars have traction control, which can help on launch. Both the Mustang and Camaro have 300 hp Six cylinder models that run in the mid-14's. It's a different world today with the fuel injected engine technology. Many of the new cars are either supercharged or turbocharged. If you want to play with them.....build accordingly.
One thing you are forgetting is that there is a big gap between having the money to buy a production car that is capable of low 12's. And the the owner actually being able get those number on the street or the track.
 

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this may be a dumb question but why would he get his clock cleaned by these cars? the only one that might put down 400rwhp is the Challenger but that things a tank. i would think with a mild stroker and the right gears his car wouldnt have much of a problem with these car in their stock condition.
I would not be so worried about the stock cars as much as the modified slightly older ones. There are way more 4th gen Fbodies with head and cams swaps that lay down 420-475 rwhp and are willing to race on the street.
 

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One thing you are forgetting is that there is a big gap between having the money to buy a production car that is capable of low 12's. And the the owner actually being able get those number on the street or the track.
I never forget that fact...I live it..See it almost every day...ha ha:laughing:. Good point anyways. No matter how you get the power, you must learn to use it properly, grasshopper....
 

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I would not be so worried about the stock cars as much as the modified slightly older ones. There are way more 4th gen Fbodies with head and cams swaps that lay down 420-475 rwhp and are willing to race on the street.
Point well taken. The easiest way (and most cost effective) to go fast is to buy an LS based F-body and do a head/cam upgrade.
 

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Point well taken. The easiest way (and most cost effective) to go fast is to buy an LS based F-body and do a head/cam upgrade.

I would not call it cost effective. Cost effective to me would be nitrous. Slap it on anything for a lot cheaper than building a proper engine setup. I think I have around 10k-15k in the Ls6 stroker in my Z06. I spent 2k-3k in the heads alone. Of course I believe in the heads being the most important piece of the puzzle followed closely by the cam.
 

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I would not call it cost effective. Cost effective to me would be nitrous. Slap it on anything for a lot cheaper than building a proper engine setup. I think I have around 10k-15k in the Ls6 stroker in my Z06. I spent 2k-3k in the heads alone. Of course I believe in the heads being the most important piece of the puzzle followed closely by the cam.
Yes....nitrous is cheap. I don't like filling bottles every few days, so I went the blower route. If I had to do my engine build again, I would build an LS (LQ9 based) engine. Throw a cam and tune in and you're at 500 hp. LS heads are so much better than Gen 1 heads. JMHO.:partyon:
 

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Yes....nitrous is cheap. I don't like filling bottles every few days, so I went the blower route. If I had to do my engine build again, I would build an LS (LQ9 based) engine. Throw a cam and tune in and you're at 500 hp. LS heads are so much better than Gen 1 heads. JMHO.:partyon:

That they are. My heads after the port work flow almost 320 cfm out to about 1 inch of lift. I like the nitrous, but I also have a nice engine built for 90% of the work. The nitrous takes care of those 10% I have to worry about. LOL
 

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I don't understand all this horsepower stuff as well as I should. I think that some of these horsepower figures are more Sheland ponies than Clydesdales. For example: All the newer 500 HP machines seem to run the quarter in about 12.5 to 13. somethings. Some of them seem to weigh around 4000 pounds. Now the dilemma....I have a 1995 Impala that puts 436 HP to the wheels and runs the quarter in 11.78 @ 118. That's a full second faster then some of these new pony cars while having a race weight of 4350 . My redline is 6600 RPM. The Impala engine is Clydesdales. These pony cars must have pony power because they should all be smokin' me but I don't see it.

If I put that engine in the Vette it should get into the low 11's or high tens. How can that be? Is my math that far off?

I think your car with around 500 HP will smoke these newfangled hot rods and 500 is an easy number to get on pump gas, around 11.0 to 1 compression and a cam in the 236/240 range with around .600 lift. A nice set of heads, headers, pay attention to your quench, (I like about .040), balance it well, use some LS7 lifters and a bulletproof roller valvetrain and you're there. I might be the only guy on the planet that doesn't like beehive springs when lift is around .600. I've killed some of them with aggressive ramps and no longer trust them. I like the Patriot Gold springs. Never had a failure with any cam. It's hard to beat the Pro-mag roller rockers.

I would go forged just to be on the safe side. I like the Victor jr single plane manifold and for a great powerband the Holley 0-4779 750CFM double pumper is hard to beat. The vacuum secondary carbs tend to richen out when opening to make up for the lack of a second set of pumps and squirters. Get your heads ported by people that know SBC heads and shoot for over 300 cfm on the intake and somewhere around 210 cfm on the exhaust.

I also like the added torque of a 383 because it puts a perma-grin on my chunky jowls. No need for a 396 or larger for your needs. For some strange and unknown reason the 355's can make about the same power as a 383 but you get a kick ass torque monster by adding the extra cubes.:D

The Impala has raced exactly one time and I drive it about 12000 miles a year. On the highway it gets around 21 mpg and about 17 in mixed driving with 3.73 gears and a 3200 stall converter. I'll let you know about the Vette when I put the Impala engine in it. I've built a solid roller engine for the old Impala and should get a few more horses because I'm going with the LT4 heads ported to about 215cc.

If you need any recommendations and want to save some bucks feel free to PM me. I'll be glad to share any knowledge that I have and maybe help you to save a few dollars.
 
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