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Hard core guys will scold me for this, but I must say that when I need machine work done I take my blocks to PRODUCTION shops...NOT race shops. I have only twice dealt with a PURE race shop for my street car needs, and both times was strung out FOREVER waiting on work to be done (and I paid a bundle for what they did).

Considering I do all I can do myself - but have to defer to the pros when it comes to equipment and tools I don't own, most of what I need machined is basic bore work - milling, and hot tanking.

If you don't know of a shop, talk to your local Chevy dealer and find out who they send stuff off to for repair - these will be high volume production shops. They crank the work out - fast. Sometimes you can talk them into doing some stroker clearancing - but not always. However, this is something you can do at home with the right information and some basic tools.

Again...hard core guys will flame me for this...but for a STREET car, balancing is NOT the end all and be all that it is made up to be. I challenge the average guy with the average ability to tune a carb and timing to be able to tell the difference between a balanced engine and a non-balanced engine ON THE STREET.

We get so caught up in the hype of ultra high performance modifications that we will start throwing dollars at street application engines that cost time, money, and cause things to drag out forever!

The last stroker I built was a four bolt 350 using a crank from a 400 chevy engine. We just did the old school stuff to it and I had a regular crankshaft production shop bore the block, hot tank, and grind the crank/rods - and press the pistons. Assembled it at home. That motor ran like a rocket, pulled like a bear...and ran for years and years of trouble free street duty and occasional drag strip fun.

So....if the dude is still sitting on his hands this Friday - pick the thing up, take it home - and put it together. You will enjoy the hands on fun and learning as well as pride of workmanship by having assembled all the internals yourself.

The guys here will walk you through ANYTHING you need to know about making the stroker crank do its job.

Have fun!

Chris and I are in total agreement above, spot on....second off, this sort of 'inside info' from an olde tyme engine man who legit did lotsa NASCAR work back when....he did his balancing at 3 am in the morning, no truck traffic....

most really critical machine shops doing NASCAR type work where the spin engines to ten grand or whatever, are out in the country and work at night for the same reason....

GROUND vibrations on that sensitive machine, stuff that suspensions and so forth could not take out, would throw off the readings, and induce errors into the balance....which is most likely why large engine foundrys/machine operations like GM/F etc just do not have all that accurate a balance job...

now today, MAYBE it has been solved electronically, but I dunno about that....
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Hello again everyone,
This week was a good week for the engine, there is progress being made, mostly because of a fairly low work load for the shop, but thats besides the point.

When i went over to the machine shop i was sure to take lost of pictures of the progress, so here they are.
This is a picture of the balancing machine he uses for the cranks. Thats not our Crank on there, ours is already done, thankfully. The machine works like a tire balancer, he started it for us, the supports have sensors in it that sense vibration, and tell him at what degree and where he should remove metal to stop the vibration, after it spins at 500 rpm for a while.




Heres our crank all balanced


He was also honning the block when we got there, and explained to us the process a little, although i remember less than a little now.


And of coarse the honning isnt done, but should be by monday.


Even more good news is that he sees no reason for the engine not to be done by friday, and be a short block by Wednesday. So ill be going over there Wed. to take a picture of the short block, then Friday to take final pics, and take it home hopefully!!! Well, hopefully the good news wont stop, and itll be done as he stated, until then... or Wed...
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Back from the shop everyone!
Although there isnt as much progress as i had hoped, and he had said (said it would be a shortblock), its still progress- so i got pics of it.
As i walked in they were just starting to work on the block, they had the main bearings in and the cam already installed. I decided to stay a few minutes while they put in the crankshaft to get a good pic. of it.

The first thing i noticed was the writing on the cam, specs and parts# i assume??


Heres the crankshaft just put in, and the ARP bolts torqued


And the last pic i have until friday, hopefull when its complete is the cam in the block


Hopefully that cam will have enough lope to it! Well, thats all i have until friday, when im assuming it will be a shortblock, even though i think he still intends for it to be done friday. Until then...
 

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I told you before that they didn't understand anything about block clearancing for stroker motors. Well you might want to call your crank manufacture about the maximum number lightening holes that can be drilled in the rear crank throw and then send them your butcher job picture.

I'm not a balancing person. But when my new crank broke a knowledgable person jumped up and told me that mine had 4 holes and it was too many. It shows that they are cutting corners and not taking the time to do it correctly.

I can bring home a machined block with cam bearings in it and have it running before the sun goes downIf you are going to use ARP bolts you should have spent another few dollars and do it right with main studs.
:down:
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I told you before that they didn't understand anything about block clearancing for stroker motors. Well you might want to call your crank manufacture about the maximum number lightening holes that can be drilled in the rear crank throw and then send them your butcher job picture.

I'm not a balancing person. But when my new crank broke a knowledgable person jumped up and told me that mine had 4 holes and it was too many. It shows that they are cutting corners and not taking the time to do it correctly.
although i too am no expert that was the thought that went through my head the first time i saw that crank, that it would be severely weakening it, but i have no say in the matter, and frankly i just want the engine out of his shop, after 6 MONTHS. My dad and his friend put together the 327 for the 63' in our garage about 20 years ago, after the block was machined, it took them a weekend, and has lasted this long, with 300,000 miles on it. I will make sure though that we will not go to him for any machine work from now on, HORRIBLE experiance so far, like you arent a paying customer, and your blocks not important enough to work on, but the block from the resto- shop is, or that guy with a big block, forged pistons, and friction reducing coatings on everything. Makes you wonder if theres any good machine shops out there that dont cut corners, because he was recommended by a local shop and a couple people at car shows.
We went to him because we had no time and space to assemble it ourselves, but if i knew it would have taken him 6 months, we wouldnt have gone there. well, tomarrow were going there, and HOPEFULLY it will be done, ill let you guys know how far behind he is.
 

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I feel sorry for you! You are between a rock and hard spot. If you go in yelling and demanding they can screw you worse.

Years ago i really got a screwing from some lame A$$ shop that would never return my phone calls. I had taken them a complete rotating assemble for balancing and my block to be bored and honed. They kept shining me on and I finally got pissed enough to go yell at them. i showed up and the place was locked up with IRS lean confiscation red tape. Everybody that had motors in the place lost out. I went to the IRS hearing to get my stuff back and they said that a work bill was not good enough to release property you had to have serial numbers. I never wrote down the block serial number and the forged rotating kit didn't have serial numbers.

Well if you really want to know how I feel. I was in anger management class and the therapist ask me what really bothered me?

" I told him that I wasn't sure which was worse. Stupid people or people driving slow in the fast lane. The problem is they are probably the same. Some people just need killing!":smack
 

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Maybe YOU see a sleeve in that pix, I damn sure don't.....at any rate, i'ts nice when a project comes together.....personally, I don't like doing short blocks, too much fiddley crap and too easy to screw up, alls it takes is one mil overlooked somewhere, or a scratch on something, and it's toast....

I don't mind slipping cams in place, heads, timing chains, seals, the rest, but thost piston rings, caps, bearings, mains.....eh...I aint' got the patience....or the experience....I pay the guy 300 bux to do that in a hearbeat,....

I'll go fix someone's kitchen....

:thumbsup: :surprised :cheers:
i just completly rebuilt my 350 .it was a pain in the azz,but worth it
 

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I'm glad your getting the motor done. I would check the clearances with the block before you button it up (rods to cylinders and rods to pan rails and rods to cam). As long as nothing is too close, I'm sure the motor will be fine, particularly for a street motor. It's just too bad the shop had to treat you so poorly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
HELLO EVERYONE!!!
today was a great day, that didnt go without a hitch, but its finally safe and sound here at home! the machine shop still had a few screw ups up its sleeve before it could hand the block off to us. To start with, we got a call early in the morning letting us know that the rockers and the lifters couldnt be installed because.... the push rods arent the right size... :thud: so we said alright we'll pick it up today still, we can install that stuff ourselves when the blocks in the car. a few hours later the machine shop called again and said (after we told them THREE TIMES) "what kind of intake did you say you were going to run?" our response was "YOU were supposed to have an edelebrock RPM air gap for it" so thats being ordered with the push rods too, we just wanted the block home and out of that place once and for all. We loaded everything in the suv and drove home, after six months it was FINALLY back home. the final glitch in the transport was after we got the engine out of the car. to fit the engine hoist boom in the suv, the chain had to be really short, so there was no way we could lower the boom enough to set the engine on the ground, on top of that the stand is too wide to fit between the hoists legs, so we had to set it on bricks :down: ******* i know, but its stable, and will only be there for a day. so here are the finished pics. sadly there are no pics of the shortblock, so you cant see the beautiful speed pro flat top forged pistons. but heres what i got!.







They also told us that they slightly ported the heads to give them a little better flow, its not much, but here it is:


I didnt get a pic. of it but I already completely taped off the heads etc.. and sprayed high temp. primer on it, and tomarrow will be chevy orange, as it should be. by monday the old should hopefully be out, and maybe even have the new in. tues. everything should be connected, and ready for the first start up IF we get the intake and pushrods..., but were bringing it to a local shop (whom he recommended) for the first start, so we can point the blame at someone if something goes wrong. The end should be comming fast, now that its in our hands, as long as we get the parts soon...
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Well, im here for the final weekly update, and all i have to say is that it was a long week, with so far only a few snags.

Heres the old engine in the car for the last time


48 hrs from that, 2 starter swaps, and several hours spend on the headers heres the new engine in its place:




The intake is an edelbrock performer rpm Q-jet, we might later adapt to a holley though


We brought the car to a local shop, where the valves are going to be lashed, then started. thats where we ran into the most recent problem, the "nut" for the rockers is too short, and hits the rockers before it totally fastens it, so the new ones will hopefully come monday, and will be running mon. or tues.
Well, thats it, FINALLY in and soon to be running; ill try to post a video in a few weeks or a month of the car either autocrossing, or at the local 1/8 mile - when everythings broken in. Thanks for following along.
 
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