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Discussion Starter #1
Getting close to my build.

This will be a daily driver/HPDE-RoadRace car. So a balance of both isn't easy but what I am shooting for.

402ci stroker shortblock with forged internals.
LS2 Heads - Stage 2 CNC work done by (TEA) Total Engine Airflow
Sticking with Stock Intake Manifold and TB for now as money is only so permitting (building the bottom and the top end will come later)
Morel - High Rpm LinkBar Hydraulic Lifters
SLP Pushrods - stronger than stock
Looking at SPEC Stage2+ clutch with aluminum flywheel.
C5R timing chain, stock timing cover (heard bad things about the 2 piece)
ATI 10% underdrive pulley (have an ASP but look to have a tiny amount of wear on the inside and with a newcrankshaft may as well get the best balancer made from what i hear)
Stock Rockers
LG Pro 1 3/4 LongTube Headers, not sure if ill leave the cats in.
Corsa Extreme Mufflers.

I have heard many things but I am starting to think the following.

Mid 230s intake/high 230s exhaust with about .600 lift (a squeak higher on exhaust) with a 114LSA to help with daily drivability.

Anyone got any other ideas or specifics to tweak the cam.
 

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Looks like a nice combo. Why did you decide to go with 1 3/4 instead of 1 7/8? I really cant comment on your cam selection simply because a lot of table research went into my build and we are not really comparing apples to apples. Im running a bone stock Ls2 Long block with a cam only internal mod. You stroker looks like a hell of a lot more potential but then again my goal was to optimise the LS2 engine. I did sacrifice some below 1800 rpm drivability but I dont care. I also gained 1-2 mpg at cruise:thumbsup: It does take alot of time to tune a speed density car correctly and I must say the devil is in the details:devil:
You should keep us posted, Id like to see what your car makes. I dont drag race my car so time slips are an irrelivent, abusive, entity that I have no use for. What matters to me is know something is in its tip top performance range. Then we take 3300 lb car and go have fun. I also built my set up for HPDE.:D
 

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These are my LPE 402 cam specs
234/240 598/608 114

It made 502rwhp with LPE Stage II heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Midnite, thanks for the reply.

Thanks for chiming in Midnight. Id seen you on here in the past and was hoping you might chime in. Thinking the 234/238 114 will probably be how I end up going.

I could always add a bit more with a FAST102 and a 102MM TB later on, but I am spending enough to get everything I listed there.

~!~!~!~!~!~

Anyone have any thoughts on the clutch. If i am close to 500rwhp and I am going to road race but also daily driver the car which is the better choice???

SPEC Stage 2+, or do i really need SPEC stage 3+
or
Monster Stage 3

The monster is the 6 puck design which they said disipates heat better if racing, but the fullfaced like the 2+ or 3+ i hear have better street manners.

I am pretty sure I am going with a lightweight flywheel as well.
 

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Stock fuel injectors will be too small, go with C6 Z06 or best ZR1 injectors as you live in hotter weather and if using E10 gas will be even leaner

2005 E40 PCM is slow and not as much control as the newer E38 PCM but in any case you need to figure costing for a good full tune and not just some quickie tune on some chassis dyno

If not changing valve sizes then the 1 3/4 headers will be fine but consider the county your in as to smog tests can dictate exhaust design

Getting close to my build.

This will be a daily driver/HPDE-RoadRace car. So a balance of both isn't easy but what I am shooting for.

402ci stroker shortblock with forged internals.
LS2 Heads - Stage 2 CNC work done by (TEA) Total Engine Airflow
Sticking with Stock Intake Manifold and TB for now as money is only so permitting (building the bottom and the top end will come later)
Morel - High Rpm LinkBar Hydraulic Lifters
SLP Pushrods - stronger than stock
Looking at SPEC Stage2+ clutch with aluminum flywheel.
C5R timing chain, stock timing cover (heard bad things about the 2 piece)
ATI 10% underdrive pulley (have an ASP but look to have a tiny amount of wear on the inside and with a newcrankshaft may as well get the best balancer made from what i hear)
Stock Rockers
LG Pro 1 3/4 LongTube Headers, not sure if ill leave the cats in.
Corsa Extreme Mufflers.

I have heard many things but I am starting to think the following.

Mid 230s intake/high 230s exhaust with about .600 lift (a squeak higher on exhaust) with a 114LSA to help with daily drivability.

Anyone got any other ideas or specifics to tweak the cam.
 

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I was happy running a balanced C6 Z06 clutch. Hydobalancing was about $150 here in Dallas.

My 402 injectors were 37.5 from GM Performance. I ran a ported/port matched Fast 90 and polished TB. I ran Kooks 1.75 but I think you will get more out of your LGs.

I would also suggest upgrading your Oil pump to the GM Hi-Po and upgrading your cooling system if you are going to race in the summer here. I run the GM Performance Oil Pump with C5R Spring.

I went to an external Oil Cooler to add more Oil and increase cooling. I am looking at switching to a Ron Davis combo in order to do some Aero and intake mods.

Good luck with your build:thumbsup:
 

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Lots of good advice above. Check my sig for specs and my videos for drivability. It's a pretty big cam, but behaves well.
One suggestion I would make would be to get the Comp trunion conversion for the stock rockers. It isn't that expensive and will increase the reliability of the rockers. The stock rockers have a tendency to spit the bearings, especially with a high spring rate and pressure.

I understand that a 1 3/4" header will give you more power lower than a 1 7/8" but I will tell you that the extra cubes and stroke will give you so much more torque that having the extra torque up top really helps, mho of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Clarification

I guess i should clarify.

I hadn't ever thought about going this far into my engine, so i got the 1 3/4 headers as just a single upgrade on thier own as I just had exhaust and intake.

Well i was at Eagles Canyon and on a straight away mid throttle when the bolts on my camshaft (pretty sure it was stock) sheered off. We thought it was the timing chain for a while which of course wasn't doing its job but timing was wrong for sure.

Pistons and valves kissed briefly bent the valves and marked the pistons. The pistons may have run but to be sure i was going to have to repair or replace the bottom end. I went with the better forged parts and it all snowballed from there.

The radiator would be nice to do but i am pretty maxed out as it is for now. If i can get the internals of the engine where i want them, the throttle body and IM, radiator and other external parts are on my list to do later.

Its more the "while you are already there" trying to have them to the major stuff in the engine area.

The Radiator would be nice to do right now, but I am racking up a good bill already.

10 different people will tell you 10 diff things about which camshaft to go with but I think I may have a winner finnaly in the 234/238 114. As long as it isn't going to peak too soon then i should be alright with that. I am going to have more power than i know what to do with for a long time to come anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Addition

Thinking about adding the FAST 102 intake Manifold and Throttle Body to my build and trying to decide on an intake.

I think the Killer Bee II with the LS2 Conversion would match the 102mm TB the best, and from what i have searched around to find it may be my only option?

The Venom I have on there from when i bought it i think is going to be too small for the 102mm set up and the LS7 MAF is a much less restrictive unit i think as well.

Any comments or ideas here?
 

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What kind of compression are you going to try and end up with? I don't think those heads will give you enough to get over 500 rwhp. If it were me, I'd go with either a good set of TFS 225's or ETP 215's (which is what I have on my 402). I have no idea about my cam specs, but I've been told I could go much bigger and get some more power.:huh: But I do know I'm running pretty high compression, so in the summer I throw some octane boost in or a few gallons of 100 octane in conjunction with 93. My car was my DD from April thru August and by in large, I had no issues (A/C worked like a charm;), and I drove it in traffic on days when the outside temps were near 100). The car dyno'd several years ago on a DynoJet 530 rwhp/510rwtq. Who knows, who cares...it's fast enough and quite streetable.:thumbsup:

Higher compression will get your more power...you just need to tune appropriately and be aware of adding some more octane in the dead of summer.:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Looking for about 11.3 - 11.4 compression. Trying to stay under many shops recommended 11.5 max static compression.

The heads have pretty solid flow numbers for being just a CNC job. check out Stage 2 on the GM LS6 Head work section of : Total Engine Airflow LS6 Head Stages

Flow Data
Intake Exhaust
0.100 67 54
0.200 139 120
0.300 219 179
0.400 271 224
0.500 308 248
0.550 315 255
0.600 320 260
This was on a 3.090 bore and I am having mine match to 4.000" bore for my LS2 block.

Either way they were a cheaper alternative then some as cast heads and if i really want to later i could go with some TONY MAMO worked over AFR heads but thats more money than i wanted on the heads right now.

I am no expert but these looked like a solid option and i think they do the work for TFS so I hope they know what they are doing ;)

Cam is a 234/238 .60x/.60x with 114LSA. I got into Road Racing so i wanted a broader power band to work with as opposed to just peak dyno numbers. If my tq is right there or close with my HP ill have all i need even if i am just under 500.
 
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