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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm still working on fixing things and I had a couple questions.

#1 - Spark Plug Shield (heat) - I finally got my AIM today and it shows a heat shield on the motor around the plug wires. I'm thinking I need it because when I changed my plug wires, the old wire set rubber boots were about 1/2 way gone on a few, like the heat had almost melted them. I've got the 350ci/270hp.



#2 - bending metal. My bracket for my right rear brass brake block wasn't connected to anything solid on the frame. This is because of some previous Bubba having the wisdom to bend it completely the opposite way so that he couldn't get the block back in there. What are my chances of bending it back without breaking? If I use some MAPP gas and heat the thing up, would that help? Yes I know the gas line runs near the bracket.



#3 - gas tank. There's a little surface rust on my tank and I was thinking since I have everything apart back there, does it make sense to replace the tank? It's probably the original.



I appreciate all the info you guys have, thanks! I'm absolutely sure I'll have more questions in the not to distant future.

Jeff
 

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#1: a lot of guys run without the heat shields. I took mine off when I switched to headers and ran the plug wires over the valve covers and down instead of up from below like stock.

#3: With the spare tire carrier already removed it's not too bad to drop the tank with the differential in place. Don't worry about a little surface rust, but do shine a flashlight inside the tank to look for signs of internal rust. Take a look at the sock on the fuel pickup and make sure it's still in good shape and not clogged :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm staying with the manifold for now, so I'm curious if others still have their shields on.

As much as I can, I'll peek inside the tank to see if there's any rust. I'd rather not replace it right now if I didn't have to. So if it's easy to replace with the differential, shafts, and trailing arms in place I'll just leave it.




I forgot a 4th question. Those spare tire carrier bolts seem to be pretty hard metal (grade 8?). I was wanting to remove completely my spare tire carrier and clean it, and in the process the drivers side one wouldn't hardly budge and I broke it by hand trying to get it off. :spanked: :nuts:

Is it possible to drill what's left of the bolt out and if so what kind of bit do I need? Bet it's got to be the hardest drill bit know to man to do this job. :smack
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
5th question

An addendum question #5.

Do you guys replace your French locks going from the half shaft flange to wheel bearing yoke (spindle)? When taking mine off, I noticed there were no French locks to be found anywhere. I wasn't sure if that was a safe way (with no locks) to be running my car or if it's normal
 

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I put the French locks back on mine where someone previously put lock washers but I wouldn't put the bolts back in without a locking device preferably the french locks. Grade 8 is a bitch to drill through but with a good bit slow speed and some good cutting oil (Crisco) you can drill it out. Hope that helps and good luck.
 

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There where no heat shields on the old motor.
I replaced the tank,sending unit,filter sock,all hoses,pads and replaced the vac valve to the vapor sys.
Also cleaned and painted all the parts in the back and went through the tail light wiring.
There will be no easier time to do alot of this next time your new exhaust will be in the way.
Replaced all the locks that where there originaly and lock tight most everywhere else.
The reason replaced the tank found a leak under one of the tank pads would not have noticed it if I had not removed the tank also there was so much junk in there it would clog the filter sock to the point I had to use compressed air to open it back up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There will be no easier time to do alot of this next time your new exhaust will be in the way.
Excellent point, hadn't thought of that. I can't imagine it's too much fun to remove it with the mufflers in there, if possible at all.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I put the French locks back on mine where someone previously put lock washers but I wouldn't put the bolts back in without a locking device preferably the french locks. Grade 8 is a bitch to drill through but with a good bit slow speed and some good cutting oil (Crisco) you can drill it out. Hope that helps and good luck.
Hmm, how does one turn their car upside down so the oil stays on the bolt? :laughing:

I think I'm going with the french locks, they're not that expensive for the safety benefit.

Jeff
 

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Hmm, how does one turn their car upside down so the oil stays on the bolt? :laughing:

I think I'm going with the french locks, they're not that expensive for the safety benefit.

Jeff
I use Crisco to drill stainless and atf fluid when I drill aluminum. Good luck. I'm fixing to start on my other T/A tomorrow at 5:30 in the morning and hopefully finish the rebuild by that night if not Saturday morning so I can get an alignment and an X pipe put in.
 

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Excellent point, hadn't thought of that. I can't imagine it's too much fun to remove it with the mufflers in there, if possible at all.

Jeff
oh yeah, I forgot about the added perks of sidepipes. Dropping the tank, differential, or transmission gets a lot easier without any exhaust under the car ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
oh yeah, I forgot about the added perks of sidepipes. Dropping the tank, differential, or transmission gets a lot easier without any exhaust under the car ;)
I was thinking about that. From looking at the ones I cut off of there, they were steel or something close as they were pretty rusted on the outside. There was no way I was going to separate them at the clamp joint spots.

If I were to go stainless steel, after a couple years would the SS sections still come apart fairly easy or would they semi-weld together like steel? I know they shouldn't rust, but with the exhaust heat, would they still be hard to separate?

That's factoring in whether or not to go with SS. As much as I don't care for the sidepipes, maybe access to the internals underneath outways my dislike for them.
 

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You dont want to use the U clamp style exhaust clamps they will dent the pipes it makes them very hard to get back apart.
 

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