It will probably have two sets of holes, according to Pro Street. The reason is, the 4+3 and 700R4 cbeams have different front hole spacing. We're trying to make this so you don't have to drill/grind/cut/weld a thing.Nice work.. will the non-proto type adpater not have the slotted holes? Not sure if that will affect drive line rigidity..
LMAO, I know who it is too.. sa thing is, it will be easer for you then him to swap.. I have a feeling he will be in for a world of hurt..I need to talk to you at some point about dash swaps. A neighbor of yours has offered to trade me the dash out of his '90.
Things have been going well so far. If you look at the link in my first thread, I've been working my way through a how-to with dimensions and pictures, step by steps. I ran into a small snag with the length. I must have goofed a measurement. The T5 + bell housing comes out to 31 inches. Apparently the 700R4 is not 31 as well. (I coulda sworn it was, I measured it like 4 times). However, My cbeam adapter holes are off by about an inch, and the driveshaft needs brute force to get in the yoke. I'm going to have to have my driveshaft shortened by an inch to be safe.AFTER youve done the R&D necessary,and when you get the swap done could you post a few pictures, comments and dimensions?
WELL,theres a bunch of guys at any site that won,t approch a major project without detailed instructions (with pictures) before they start for fear they might acctually need to fabricate or modify something rather than having just a parts list and a simple bolt in procedure to follow.:crazy: many of the GURUS on some sites have NEVER custom built a part in thier lives and many have never rebuilt an engine or even swapped a trans, or rear differential.
BTW TRUE hotrodders are the few guys who are willing too TRY something NEW and differant, not the guys who only buy a couple parts to replace the O.E.M. s stuff. so keep up the good work!:thumbsup:
if you get stuck in the swap post your questions and Ill try to give you a link to the correct addapter or supplier
For about $1,000 you could do the T5 swap with a bunch of new parts.I like this! The reason I own an auto is because I couldn't afford a car new enough to have a 6 speed and didn't like the 4+3. I'd totally take a 5 speed though....
Yes. Get all the 4+3 stuff - pedals, hydraulics, bell housing, clutch, flywheel, hardware, driveshaft. Then instead of using a 4+3 w/shifter, use a T5 w/shifter + cbeam adapter.$1000 is pretty affordable really. What's involved in installing a clutch pedal? Just get all the stock 4+3 parts and mod to fit? Don't worry, I'm not afraid of cutting and welding if anything is required.
It's do-able, and works well. The way you have to modify the shifter is fairly lame, but what can ya do. It was cheap. Selling the 700R4 and converter paid for most of it.I WANT TO DO THIS! Never dreamed I could get rid of my auto and hang a clutch! Have sent your article to my shop here in Hawaii and will see what they say. Eureka! -Wm. Pila Chiles (retired in Hawaii. Love my C4 just wish I had the late dash but with a stick I'd still be in hog heaven!):thumbsup:
No No No. You need to modify a fbody or s10 or mustang shifter. Cut a hole in the floor, etc. Read the article. You use 4+3 pedals and hydraulics, bellhousing, etc.You can use the automatic shifter?! Wow, this floors me. My big question is how do you hang the clutch pedal? Are you making the mechanism?
You remind me of our saying in the old days, "I've been working with so little for so long I now feel like I'm qualified to do anything using nothing.":thud:
Of course! Now it's beginning to make sense. I thought it would have to include flywheel and everything. Well, New Year's Day is certainly the time to scope this out. I sent the article (that I believe mentioned it had errors and was being rewritten) to my mechanic. As soon as his hangover falls within reasonable parameters, we'll dive in. Man, would I love to get rid of grandma's automatic!No No No. You need to modify a fbody or s10 or mustang shifter. Cut a hole in the floor, etc. Read the article. You use 4+3 pedals and hydraulics, bellhousing, etc.
Ford has different front splines, different output splines, and the shifter is in a slightly different location. Requires way too much to make it work. The whole idea of "cost effective" kinda goes out the window.Great info, I like the fact you can use the 4+3 BH, I recall a guy out in California that I spoke to,, he has a speed shop,, and he claimed he could make the T5 stronger than a ZF,, but he could not help me with a retrofit.
I'll try to find my correspondence with him
Oh yeah, had this
EDIT: Stupid question, what is the difference betwen the GM/T5 and the Ford T5 ?