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Not to steal your thread Joe, but the ZF is great in terms of shifter feel, but IMHO, I would recommend the ZF only if you cant afford a TKO-500 or TKO-600. I have spent a lot of time and money screwing with this setup and I know it well.

I would recommend the ZF if;
1. You use a push type clutch because the stock hydraulics are crap and Clutch Packages are expensive and limited in choice.
2. You don't mind the noise or rattle from the gearbox.

If you use a push type clutch, then I would;
1. Add a spacer to the face of the bell housing that is 1/4" thick
2. Buy a Pilot Bushing Adapter to extend the pilot bushing by 1/4"
3. Buy the McLeod #1345 Bolt on TOB or Howe Racing Hyd-TOB.
4. Add a Clutch Pedal Stop just for good measure.

Currently, I use
1. The rebuild-able Howe Racing T5 Hydraulic TOB
2. @ .150" thick spacer between the BH & block
3. A rebuild-able Wilwood Clutch Master
4. Adjustable clutch Pedal stop, home made.

This spring, I might buy a Lakewood bell housing and mount the ZF to it. The Lakewood BH is @ 1/2" deeper and this allows the use of any push type clutch you could ever want to use and more Hyd-TOB options. I might have to weld some nuts on the inside of the Lakewood for the ZF bolt pattern and move the C-beam holes to accommodate the extra 1/2', and then buy a Pilot Bearing adapter to accommodate the 1/2" as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Not to steal your thread Joe, but the ZF is great in terms of shifter feel, but IMHO, I would recommend the ZF only if you cant afford a TKO-500 or TKO-600. I have spent a lot of time and money screwing with this setup and I know it well.

I would recommend the ZF if;
1. You use a push type clutch because the stock hydraulics are crap and Clutch Packages are expensive and limited in choice.
2. You don't mind the noise or rattle from the gearbox.

If you use a push type clutch, then I would;
1. Add a spacer to the face of the bell housing that is 1/4" thick
2. Buy a Pilot Bushing Adapter to extend the pilot bushing by 1/4"
3. Buy the McLeod #1345 Bolt on TOB or Howe Racing Hyd-TOB.
4. Add a Clutch Pedal Stop just for good measure.

Currently, I use
1. The rebuild-able Howe Racing T5 Hydraulic TOB
2. @ .150" thick spacer between the BH & block
3. A rebuild-able Wilwood Clutch Master
4. Adjustable clutch Pedal stop, home made.

This spring, I might buy a Lakewood bell housing and mount the ZF to it. The Lakewood BH is @ 1/2" deeper and this allows the use of any push type clutch you could ever want to use and more Hyd-TOB options. I might have to weld some nuts on the inside of the Lakewood for the ZF bolt pattern and move the C-beam holes to accommodate the extra 1/2', and then buy a Pilot Bearing adapter to accommodate the 1/2" as well.
Thanks for the info.

I have another project that I promised I'd work on in the spring, which is a push style ZF swap using a modified bell housing. I need more specs to get an idea of how do-able it is. I'm pretty sure a 4+3 bell housing can be welded up to support a ZF though, which would eliminate the hydraulics nightmare.

I considered the lakewood bell housing option as well, redrill and weld nuts on the backside for ZF mounting but you still can run into a hydraulics nightmare.

-- Joe
 

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Cleaner than Stock, Faster than Phock
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How thick is the 4+3 BH, mount face to mount face?

If I recall correctly, the standard ZF is 5.875" and the ZR1's ZF BH is 6.125" which is a 1/4" thicker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
How thick is the 4+3 BH, mount face to mount face?

If I recall correctly, the standard ZF is 5.875" and the ZR1's ZF BH is 6.125" which is a 1/4" thicker.
It's almost 6" so its probably right around the same. The splines are the same. The question left over is the diameter of the bearing retainer / TOB.

What i'm probably going to do is put the ZF up in place, bolt the cbeam in, and pole-jack it in two spots so its flush with the BH. Mark the spots for the holes, and weld tabs where holes cannot be drilled, then drill through, and weld aluminum stock on the back side so 1/2" min thread depth can be drilled + tapped.

Timken makes a polymer TOB now for T5 applications thats nice. Wonder if it would work.


-- Joe
 

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Cleaner than Stock, Faster than Phock
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The ZF,,,TOB for 89-93 is 1.375 "ID and the 94-96 TOB is 1.311" ID if that helps

EDIT:
Corrected the numbers, basically they are 1-3/8" and 1-5/16"
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
The ZF,,,TOB for 89-93 is 3.175 ID and the 94-96 TOB is 3.110 ID if that helps

What? 3 inches ID? That can't be. The retainer around the input shaft is 3" in diameter?!?

That can't be right. The above picture shows the input shaft at 28MM which is 1.118". Unless the ZF setup is just ultra weird due to the pull-action..

-- Joe
 

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Cleaner than Stock, Faster than Phock
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Just one decimal off.........1.375" and 1.311"

;) Happy New Year guys!

How is your Push Type McLeod TOB working?


I think I am getting worse with age, I absolutely typed it in backwards.

Basically there is a .060" difference in the ID's, I'll correct the original post.
 

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Cleaner than Stock, Faster than Phock
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726 Posts
What? 3 inches ID? That can't be. The retainer around the input shaft is 3" in diameter?!?

That can't be right. The above picture shows the input shaft at 28MM which is 1.118". Unless the ZF setup is just ultra weird due to the pull-action..

-- Joe

Sorry Joe, it is supposed to be 1.375 and 1.311
 

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How is your Push Type McLeod TOB working?
So far, so good. (knocking on wood) It hasn't used a drop of fluid and still feels new. I have less than 500 miles on it though. My race budget was blown on the new build last year. I should be able to do 12-15 races this season so I'll have more of a review soon enough.

BTW, great work Anesthes. **Tip for any newbies out there....Both of these guys (LD85 and Anesthes) know their stuff. :thumbsup:
 

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pedal swap advice

I just started this swap on my 84, all of the driveline portion of the swap is very straightforward, and it is going very smooth thanks to the excellent write up in this thread. The pedals ,on the other hand, look like a nightmare. Anyone have any tips on swapping the brake pedal and adding the clutch pedal. Thanks for any comments
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I just started this swap on my 84, all of the driveline portion of the swap is very straightforward, and it is going very smooth thanks to the excellent write up in this thread. The pedals ,on the other hand, look like a nightmare. Anyone have any tips on swapping the brake pedal and adding the clutch pedal. Thanks for any comments
The pedals were not that bad. I outlined the easiest way to do them in my 700R4 swap link:

http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/projects/stick-swap/

You leave the bracket in place for the brake, just remove the pedal itself and replace it with the smaller one. Snake the clutch pedal assembly in there. It bolts to the beam, and to the master cyl.

-- Joe
 

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Been running this adaptor bracket since it became available. much better design then the one I had been running (swapped out the doug nash for a t5 back in 2004 and had made a bracket myself originally) only issue I have is shifter rise where I have cracked a couple center console covers over the years.

The guy down in Ohio making them was great to deal with. even sat mine outside so I could run down and pick it up on a saturday. Still remember that day lol got caught in a nasty thunderstorm coming back on my bike.

Anyone ever figure out the shifter rise thing

also my shift lever was done slightly different. the t5 shifter shaft was threaded to have the relocating bar slip over and lock in place with a nut
ignore the rust lol its all since been repainted. took pic when installing tbe new shifter boot
Automotive tire Hood Wood Bumper Automotive exterior

104209
104210
 

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The shifter from not being bolted to the tunnel anymore as with the 4+3 is something you have to live with unless some kind of bracket is made to attach it to the tunnel . I did a T56 6 speed swap and always wondered if the ZF cars had the same movement stock....
 

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I've been working on the R&D on 5 speed "T5" swaps in C4 corvettes for a few months now, and working with a company called Pro Street Customs who has designed a CBEAM adapter bracket based on my specifications. This bracket will be available by the end of next week for purchase for about $175 / shipped.

The specifics are:

1) A T5 transmission uses the same 4+3 bellhousing/clutch/driveshaft
2) A T5 bolted to a 4+3 bellhousing is the same length as a 700R4, making auto-stick swaps cost effective now
3) You do not need to modify the CBEAM, just use the adapter
4) The shifter can be modified to be offset and line up with the shifter plate
5) T5 transmissions average used cost is about $250

I've been working on a writeup for the swap. Some of the part #'s listed in the writeup are wrong, but within about a week or so the writeup will be 100% correct.

1984-1988 Corvette C4 T5 Swap


Any questions?

-- Joe
Thank you!! Il be hunting for a t5 right away
 

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Can't thank everyone enough for the help and talk about this!! Look forward to hearing and posting more...looking to keep the car simple but get some power gains.. taking of smog controls would like to go new heads and keep the tpi but I will cross that bridge in a week or two...thank you again.. definitely getting bracket to get this thing rolling again
 
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