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Discussion Starter #1
As the title says, I'm interested in building a 500 WHP GS MN6 with NPP...looking for opinions on how to accomplish this...want to maintain as much driveability as possible (eg no surging, bucking, jerking at low speeds).
Will consider only permanent options so no nitrous but blower, turbo, cam, cam & head's all are options. Please identify actual parts that you would use if this were your build- oh, and keep as low budget as possible while maintaining good durability.

Nothing like some good bench racing during the cold season.

A
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I think the Breathless kit is crank HP...I'm leaning towards an A&A SC with 1 7/8 headers but really don't want to have to change my hood.
 

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ATI Procharger, no question about it. Although adding a supercharger does add about 90lbs to the car....alternatively you can go with the new Trick Flow GenX 225cc CNC heads and the LG G6X3 cam and 1 1/8 LG long tube headers. That and a dyno-tune should give you a good start.
 

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I have one.

2011 GrandSport with MN6, 499 RWHP, 459 Torque but w/o NPP.

Edelbrock #1591 Supercharger Kit.

Oh, it's got 500 miles on it and it's for sale, we built it as a project and have moved on to other toys :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
bdevault- PM sent
 

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Supercharging is the easiest most cost effective way

Either that or throw a 200shott to the bottom end,

I mean do you need 500rwhp everyday of the week :laughing:

I doubt it

Bon
 

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I did it with:

1 3/4" Melrose long tubes,
Random Tech. hi flow cats,
LG Big 3 exhaust,
and
A&A V2Si kit.

Stock feel and drivability...Until I get into the boost, then wickedness ensues. :devil::thumbsup::devil:

The A&A kit is like art for the Corvette, I say go for it.

 

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bdevault- PM sent
I am making 860rwhp / 810 torque, but if I had to do it all over again I would just install a P1SC Procharger kit and a set of American Racing Headers 1 7/8 ", need nothing else to have a very respectfull car with all the street manners and driveability and can guaranty you will make over 500rwhp.:thumbsup:
Now if you added cam, pushrods and valve springs together with the first suggestion, thats a different level which will make anything from 600rwhp to 700rwhp with the correct shop and I am saying this from first hand experience, I made 712rwhp with such modification when I first bought my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm definitely leaning towards supercharging- want to keep it reasonable though so I don't have to go to a forged motor and I'm kinda worried about hurting the handbuilt LS3 in it...sounds like the e-force will do it with just 5 lbs of boost with gains available across the RPM band but with the centrifugal it seems like it is only availabel at higher RPMs- kind of like a turbo b/c of the bypass valve...not that it really matters but what about gas mileage with the e-force- should be worse than with a centrifugal type?
 

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as long as you are not "in boost" your fuel milage won't be affected very much with either system. As for the power band, ask yourself "as my car sits now, with the traction controll off, can i melt the tires effortlessly?" if so, then the roots style of the edelbrock will only make it worse- a centrifugal builds power at a slightly higher rpm range where traction is less of an issue

also, i believe the procharger to be a safer bet for your engine overall. the much much better intercooler will give you lower intake temperatures which will lead to more power with less engine strain. Also, it has been proven numerous times that the procharger lineup makes more power with lower boost levels because of its intercooler design.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just curious- what makes the ECS kit the best?
 

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I have had heads/cam, procharger, and twin turbos, and ZR1 with the factory blower. A C6 with a procharger was the best combination I ever drove on the street.:cheers:
 

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I am making 860rwhp / 810 torque, but if I had to do it all over again I would just install a P1SC Procharger kit and a set of American Racing Headers 1 7/8 ", need nothing else to have a very respectfull car with all the street manners and driveability and can guaranty you will make over 500rwhp.:thumbsup:
Now if you added cam, pushrods and valve springs together with the first suggestion, thats a different level which will make anything from 600rwhp to 700rwhp with the correct shop and I am saying this from first hand experience, I made 712rwhp with such modification when I first bought my car.
:agree:p1SC and a set of headers. Can't go wrong with that combination:thumbsup:
 

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Just curious- what makes the ECS kit the best?
Besides the fact the ECS kit holds every supercharging record, it's also the most copied centrifugal kit.

It's the combo of all ECS parts that make it the best.

Since the competition can't duplicate the performance of the ECS kit, they went the other direction & just make them cheaper.

If you want the best, get the ECS kit. :partyon:
 

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I can't help but wonder what other components will be needed to support the extra horsepower.

Bracing, stronger gearbox, higher rated clutch, etc., or will the stock drivetrain hold up well as is?
 

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I can't help but wonder what other components will be needed to support the extra horsepower.

Bracing, stronger gearbox, higher rated clutch, etc., or will the stock drivetrain hold up well as is?
Alot of it depends on how you drive. I've heard of stock clutches & trans lasting years and or weeks.
 

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I can't help but wonder what other components will be needed to support the extra horsepower.

Bracing, stronger gearbox, higher rated clutch, etc., or will the stock drivetrain hold up well as is?
Kenny from experience you will need to do a clutch job if it is a MN6, if A6 you will have to stay with around 550rwhp or will need upgraded parts very soon, now over 600rwhp you will need axles,harden output shalves in rear, and an upgraded transmission (MN6 or A6) MN6 will need to upgrade to a Z06 transmission and in turn you will also need Z06 rear.(Z06 transmission rear main shalf is bigger and the rear accomadate a larger main shalf, 33 teeth and our MN6 has 27teeth)
I broke both axles, broke the tail main shalf into the rear and the rear on different occassion. I upgraded to a Z06 rear, Z06 transmission and DDS axles, I also upgraded to a tripple disc RPS clutch but in your case there is a new upgraded ZR1 double disc clutch from Katech that is now advailable for a cheaper price and is as good as most competetive clutch out there.
Any tuner said any difference is just pulling you into the circle because they know later you will eventually need all upgraded parts mentioned.:thumbsup:
 
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