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Come on Man, you didn't paint the supports, your customer isn't going to like that!!!!!:thud:

Using GW arms, did you have to drill the support and brackets larger to use the bolts they supplied or have they changed them since the last set I built? I personally like the stock arm bolts with knurls much better but those will work.

How about tapping the axles to bolt on and dial in the rotors?
Ah yes, I fixed that later on. Not really efficient, but hey: after breaking those bleeders I suddenly had a whole new time schedule ;)

No drilling or tapping was required, so I guess they have fixed that. I did have to change the bushings, because the ones on it had a sleeve with a too small diameter for the stock TA bolt. good thing I ordered a complete VB&P poly kit a while back.



 

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Gary,
The fact that you would take the time to pretty much retype so much of what was stated earlier over ten years is a testament as to why you are one of our most valuable assets!
My hats off to you my friend!
And to the young man in the Neatherlands...
You have just been taught by one of if not The premier Corvette suspension and steering gurus!
A Win/Win!!!
Ya gotta love DC!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #224
Thank buddy, I suppose you are all settled in FL now and away from the snow and cold? We just got the tail end of the storm that went through the South and it was enough to regret the next 3 months of Winter up here!

Be safe and enjoy the Southern Winter!:thumbsup:
 

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Gary,
I'm a novice who recently accuired an original 64 and I'm currently rebuiling the trailing arms....your posts on here are great. Luckily those 54 year old bearings and bushings were just starting to fail before any thing else got damaged. Yesterday I was putting in the bearings and measuring for tolerance. Man, that was frustrating. Now that I found your posts on here I'm going to knock those bearings out and give it another go and see if I can't close the gap down just a touch. Really appreciative of you're contributions on here. Hopefully I'll get this knocked out before spring is past.
 

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Discussion Starter #226 (Edited)
You can do it, do your homework, understand what you want to happen, use the correct setup methods and tools, and you will be fine. These are not special bearings as some will try and tell you. Don't listen to those that will tell you can not do them at home. You can but you will need the tools and access to a surface grinder to really get them dialed in.

If you have a problem contact me directly
 

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Hi Gary,
I've read through the entire post and I have some questions before I get started. I also have some pictures which I am not experienced enough to know if the part should be replaced. It looks like I can only attach one picture. I'll try attaching the others in separate posts.
Questions:

  1. Are you still using the Timken bearings? I have access to a bearing supply company through my company, therefore I can whatever bearing you recommend.
  2. Are you still using the Timken grease as in a later post?
  3. In one the posts you said you use "CR" seals, I was not able to find CR. I assume they were bought out by another company or went out of business. What are you using now?
View attachment 22577
I believe this is the original spindle. I measured the area and it is within spec from one of you posts. Should this be trashed?
View attachment 22585
 

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Discussion Starter #233
Your pictures don't show up on my PC?

To answer your questions
1- Yes I use Timkens. While all quality made bearings should follow ISO manufacturing procedures Timkens are what I have used for many years and recommend.

2- Yes still using Timken automotive bearing grease which I think is the same as Lucas Red & Tacky but that is just my opinion.

3- CR- is Chicago Rawhide now owned by SKF. I like these seals. NAPA sold them under their name but I don't buy them from NAPA so I can't say if they still stock them? I have seen some cheap seals sold so I would spend more for these.
 

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Discussion Starter #234 (Edited)
I have been running this thread now for 12 years and hopefully it has helped some of you out.

Some new developments regarding parts.
The seals that come in some kits are actually better then the junk that was shipped in the past so that is good news.

I found the new NAPA rotor I typically use didn't have the bore for the parking brakes completely finished. The diameter was close enough to allow the rotor to slide over the shoes but they hit. To date not one SS parking brake kit that I have used as been able to be used out of the bag. The all need to be fit and part of what I do is shorten the star wheels to allow the shoes to collapse more to avoid hitting the rotor hat. This new NAPA rotor wouldn't work. So since I already matched it to the axle I wanted to keep it so I machined the bore and fit the rotor. I can see if you didn't know about this it would drive you nuts or you would just burn up your new shoes.

First I had to machine up an extension for my boring head, then dial in the rotor in the mill and bore it. If my lathe was larger I could have bored it faster in the lathe.












Here it is done


 

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Discussion Starter #239
Just to update the issue I had with that last rotor, I had to rebore 3 of 6 new rotors, they came from various suppliers. Some were drilled and slotted, others had the rivet holes so they came from a vendor, all had to be rebored.

I just bought 2 new NAPA premiums rotors but didn't open them yet.

If you replace rotors and find they are tight, don't fit, or you hear a ticking sound don't rule out new rotors. We should not have to machine new parts but the QC today on imported parts is a crap shoot.
 
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