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Howdy Gary,

Q1: I've begun my TA rebuild project. I've got the arms off and spindle out on the driver side. My toolkit I bought for this job a while back includes many things, but doesn't seem to include tool J-8433-1. Is there some other procedure for pulling the outer bearing off the spindle or am I missing something?

I do have this tool.

Link NFG
Arm 1 so far:


Q2: One of my first DIY projects was fixing the parking brakes. In getting things apart, I inadvertently drilled well into the part of the spindle where the studs mount to. Are the spindles balanced to such a degree that I should consider replacing them, or is this removal of material not such a big deal?
No biggie.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I have the clamp shell bearing splitter for the outer bearing. It's about $125, International Axle makes them. My buddy has one of those full Snap On puller sets and that what he used to remove it.

The spindles were riveted to the rotor and turned as one. That was the final finish. You don't have a balance problem but if you drilled off center then you're not going to be able to bolt on the rotor later- at least on that hole.
 

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I have the clamp shell bearing splitter for the outer bearing. It's about $125, International Axle makes them. My buddy has one of those full Snap On puller sets and that what he used to remove it.

The spindles were riveted to the rotor and turned as one. That was the final finish. You don't have a balance problem but if you drilled off center then you're not going to be able to bolt on the rotor later- at least on that hole.
Harbor Freight has a low priced bearing splitter and puller set. I use the splitter with my press and haven't busted it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Paul did that work on the outer spindle brg? the one made for this has a counterbore to go around the seal.

 

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I have the clamp shell bearing splitter for the outer bearing. . .
I think that's what I have. But I'm not quite sure how to use it. Do the bolts just go all the way through the clamp and against the spindle and then you just turn the bolt on each side a little at a time?
 

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Paul did that work on the outer spindle brg? the one made for this has a counterbore to go around the seal.

This is what I have, as well as the bolts that go through vertically. Obviously it goes underneath the bearing and around the spindle, but how do generate the lifting action? I would have expected there to be some kind of crossbar with a bolt and nut in the center to tie the sides together and lift evenly. . . I R confuzid.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Paul,
I have that set and it didn't work- that I remember. I've had this one for years now.

VZ- you need to clamp around the bearing and tighten it evenly. Once you get it under the race then use the long vertical bolts to jack the whole thing.
 

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VZ- you need to clamp around the bearing and tighten it evenly. Once you get it under the race then use the long vertical bolts to jack the whole thing.
So the clamp doesn't have to go up dead evenly, it can ratchet a little side to side? In this scenario, I expect the bolts to come in contact with the spindle (whatever you call the part the studs mount to), is that correct?
 

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This is what I have, as well as the bolts that go through vertically. Obviously it goes underneath the bearing and around the spindle, but how do generate the lifting action? I would have expected there to be some kind of crossbar with a bolt and nut in the center to tie the sides together and lift evenly. . . I R confuzid.
Mine was similar to this but had another bracket that bolted to the threaded holes on the sides of the bearings. It was somewhat u-shaped and had a threaded hole above the spindle. You then used the bolt above the spindle to "jack-off" (no pun intended) the bearing much the same way you remove a balancer.

ltlevil
 

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the way i got the outer bearing off.

1. use a grinder to cut off the cage.
2. carefully grind the inner race in one spot until it is very thin.
3. Take a chisel and bust it off.

takes about 5 minutes.
 

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the way i got the outer bearing off.

1. use a grinder to cut off the cage.
2. carefully grind the inner race in one spot until it is very thin.
3. Take a chisel and bust it off.

takes about 5 minutes.
The American says sure, why not; but the German blood in me causes me to go into cold sweats and get fuzzy vision. :spanked:
 

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Mine was similar to this but had another bracket that bolted to the threaded holes on the sides of the bearings. It was somewhat u-shaped and had a threaded hole above the spindle. You then used the bolt above the spindle to "jack-off" (no pun intended) the bearing much the same way you remove a balancer.

ltlevil
That's what the service manual describes, but that bracket didn't come in my kit . . . Mmm.
 

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the way i got the outer bearing off.

1. use a grinder to cut off the cage.
2. carefully grind the inner race in one spot until it is very thin.
3. Take a chisel and bust it off.

takes about 5 minutes.
The American says sure, why not; but the German blood in me causes me to go into cold sweats and get fuzzy vision. :spanked:

If you're careful I guess you could just take the Dremel to it.... Krusty says it's good enough....

 

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Gary,

I don't see it outlined in this process here, but would you consider/recommend closing up the stitch welds with a solid bead? If so, would you just go down the length of the arm, or include the spindle housing area, which has more significant gaps and therefore require more fill material?
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Be sure the arm is not bent, rotted,etc. I've filled in the welds, how much of a differnce it makes I couldn't say. If you go in short sections so there's no distortion you'll be ok. Then you can grind them smooth.


 

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Eh, I been taking a Dremel cutter wheel to bearing races for a long time now, just hit with a cold chisel and hammer, and off it pops...or gets loose enough to slip off...one the other....

and I do have to agree with Tvette, that a slip fit on that inner bearing for the t-arms sounds like a good idea to me, anyway....when I have to tear mine down, I will do that just to make life easy on myself....

:huh: :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Yeah, the slip fit debate comes up all the time on all the forums. I can do that but won't. Many do slip fit them and don't have a problem.
Good luck
 

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Frist of all thank you for taking the time to post on this thread. You don't know how many times my father and I have read / printed / re-read you post. First time I read your post I said dad send it out. But with your posts and having the vette tools and 3 sets to do he though it would be best to try to tackle ourselves and it's hard to argue with dad when I get to help him on his car as he is why I have one.

The problem we are having is we lose end play when we put the flange on before we tighten the nut down.

From your thread I would say we are doing 2 things wrong 1 is we didn't go to 100 foot pounds on the set up tool. Second I am not sure we are installing the inner seal deep enough.

Could we have the incorrect shim by not going to 100 on the setup tool and after installing both bearings on the spindal what do you use to seat the final seal?

Thank you for you time
 

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Not quite understanding your question. Are you torqing the nut to 100 ft\lbs on the set-up tool each time you check end play? With the seals installed the end play won't change. It will be harder to feel the end play though. The seals have lips under them. Press the seal down all the way until it bottoms.
Mike
 
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