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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone confirm which temperature sending unit they have on thier cylinder head please.

http://www.lectriclimited.com/images/sw-temp senders.jpg

According to this web site, and what corvette central has in catalog, I should have the part on the far left.
I have the one lebeled 01513321.

Anyone able to confirm which one they have. It looks like all corvettes 68-71 should have the same type unit.

If anyone has the one on the left, what type of connector does it use to connector to it?

thanks
 

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I have the same one you have (01513321). And I have changed it once and the replacement was the same type.

Edit - I just looked at Eckler's and they show the one on the far left too for 68-71. ????
 

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Can anyone confirm which temperature sending unit they have on thier cylinder head please.

http://www.lectriclimited.com/images/sw-temp senders.jpg

According to this web site, and what corvette central has in catalog, I should have the part on the far left.
I have the one lebeled 01513321.

Anyone able to confirm which one they have. It looks like all corvettes 68-71 should have the same type unit.

If anyone has the one on the left, what type of connector does it use to connector to it?

thanks
The correct one (original) is on the far left (01513130) for a '69. The others will likely be inaccurate with your gauge. There is a pin type plastic connector at the end of the green wire that slips over and locks to unit. This is what you need...

http://www.zip-corvette.com/ProductDetails/ProductDetails.aspx?pid={ceb58531-d368-4d82-8c3b-ea9078eeeaf8}&gid={5fee888b-0fa5-4dcb-8c77-ade74a2e2433}&GroupName=Temperature+Senders&pname=68-71+Temperature+Sender+Harness+Repair&Referer=&Alias=&ptct=SGR-SR&CTitle=&
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wierd, I wonder if the common replacement for sender units is the one we have and not the original for some reason?
Mine is acting funny, sometimes showing low and sometimes showing ok, depending on how i wiggle wire so far.
So I looked into it.
 

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Wierd, I wonder if the common replacement for sender units is the one we have and not the original for some reason?
Mine is acting funny, sometimes showing low and sometimes showing ok, depending on how i wiggle wire so far.
So I looked into it.
Others owned my car for 23 years before I did. So, it's likely the wrong one got in there and the harness was modified to work with it. I have a mechanical gauge in the intake, the cockpit gauge and that intake read within a few degrees of each other.

Sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere if the indication is jumping around.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well mine doesnt jump around, it is either working or almost working. Mine goes from a low reading to alright if I mess with it.
But when I look at my connector that goes on it, it does looker like someone maybe added the connector.
 

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Well mine doesnt jump around, it is either working or almost working. Mine goes from a low reading to alright if I mess with it.
But when I look at my connector that goes on it, it does looker like someone maybe added the connector.
I don't know if you care whether the part is correct or you just want a working guage.

From what you describe, it sounds like it is an electrical issue and you just don't have good steady continuity, so changing the sender isn't going to fix it. You don't have a good connection at the sender or the wire has broken strands or both. I assume when you say "if I mess with it" that you are talking about the sender end of the circuit only, not doing anything at the gauge end.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well no matter what I do to the wire, the guage shows real low. I have even sad papered the tip of the sending unit to make sure it is getting a clean connection.

I have read in other places, that one way to check your guage to make sure it has not gone bad is to disconnect the wire from the sending unit.
Than touch it to a ground. This should cause the guage to pin to max if your connection and guage are ok. That is what mine is doing.
 

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Well no matter what I do to the wire, the guage shows real low. I have even sad papered the tip of the sending unit to make sure it is getting a clean connection.

I have read in other places, that one way to check your guage to make sure it has not gone bad is to disconnect the wire from the sending unit.
Than touch it to a ground. This should cause the guage to pin to max if your connection and guage are ok. That is what mine is doing.
Turn your key to on , disconnect wire,gauge should go to cold,ground wire , gauge should go max hot.

Your temp gauge needs an ohm reading from the sender of 79 ohms for the dash gauge to read 210 degrees.
The closest sender I have found to that is the BWD WT 203 from Advance or ORileys at 81 ohms. Cost $8
I have tested 3 of the LL senders and they produce an ohms reading of around 102 which makes the gauge read around 150 degrees. Too low
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If I take off my wire and ground it I get max reading. I assume I have a bad sending unit and not a bad guage or a bad wire issue.
Sounds like I need to get your unit from advance.
What kind of connector foes it have on it?
jim
 

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If I take off my wire and ground it I get max reading. I assume I have a bad sending unit and not a bad guage or a bad wire issue.
Sounds like I need to get your unit from advance.
What kind of connector foes it have on it?
jim
It has the thumbtack type. 2nd from the left in your link above.
I put one in a 70 about a month ago. I very carefully ground the connector down to look like the first one from the left(pin type). It was a tiny bit shorter but worked fine.
(You could also change the connector on your wire if you have the pin type and dont need to stay factory.)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have the thumbtack connector and sender unit currently.
Did you just drain your radiator to replace the sending unit?
I was told you need to drain anti freeze before you replace the unit or you are going to have a big mess. :)
 

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I have the thumbtack connector and sender unit currently.
Did you just drain your radiator to replace the sending unit?
I was told you need to drain anti freeze before you replace the unit or you are going to have a big mess. :)
Just lower the radiator about 1/2 way should be good.

The connector isn't what makes the sender,Autozone has thumbtack conn sender # TU5 that has the same poor readings as the LL senders.

So far (knock on wood) the WT203 has been consistently good.
 

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I looked up the WT203 at advance auto and got two senders.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...rtTypeList&suggestion=&searchTerm=bwd+wt+203+

I don't see a difference at all between them accept the price.
Which one did you use?
I needed a 203 for a car I was working on and I went to Advance and they didn't have the 203Z or the 203 , so I went to Orileys and they have the 203 for $5.99.
...Orileys WT203....$5.99
Advance WT203...$17.99
Advance WT203Z..$6.29
Thats crazy the only diff between the 203 and the 203Z is the 203 comes with a wire connector and a piece of teflon wrapped around the sender. :WTF
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Are you supposed to use teflon or anti-seize on the threads of the sender?
Or will it mess up the resistance of the sender and the reading?
 

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I'm old school so I use pipe dope as a lubricant but 1 turn of teflon tape won't hurt either. (I've experimented with several turns or layers of teflon tape and using an ohm meter to check , it took a bunch before the sender was not making good ground with the head.)
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Did you check the resistance by putting the sensor inthe block, than putting one probe on the block and one on the terminal end on the sender?

I assume it should be the resistance mentioned above at around 79ohm?

Is there a way to check resistance with the sender out of the car? I ask, because I am testing with a volt ohm meter, connecting the probes on the threads and the terminal tip on the new one as well as the old one that is still in the car.

Both are not near 79ohm.
 

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Did you check the resistance by putting the sensor inthe block, than putting one probe on the block and one on the terminal end on the sender?

I assume it should be the resistance mentioned above at around 79ohm?

Is there a way to check resistance with the sender out of the car? I ask, because I am testing with a volt ohm meter, connecting the probes on the threads and the terminal tip on the new one as well as the old one that is still in the car.

Both are not near 79ohm.
Put your sender in boiling water , when the internal temp reaches 212 it should have an ohms reading of around 79-81 ohms. Keep the center terminal out of the boiling water , it will effect the reading.
 
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