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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
According to my FSM and there are supposed to be 8 body mounting bolts but when we tried to lift the body off the frame (doing a total frame off restoration) there were two additional smaller bolts behind the rear wheel wells. After loosening them they just spun freely as if there was a nut attached to them on top. Unfortunately there seems to be no way to access them. When we loosened them they didn't "break" indicating that there might be a nut welded to the frame that broke loose.

Does anyone know how to remove those bolts?

Thanks,

Jim
 

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Being a little more specific then just "behind the rear wheel wells" would help, but pictures would be even better! On my 71 couope there are only 8 body mount bolts and the assembly manual (UPC1 - G1) shows them to be common (model 1900) items, so convertibles (roadster for you) should be the same. Anything else that prevents body removal is either a bumper brace/rod or a rear valance support but I assume you've already removed those! I do see what MIGHT be a difference on the convertibles which are the bolts that hold the deck lid hinge assembly and support to the reinforcement immediately behind the wheel wel shown on AIM pg 1/F4&F5. Those appear to be in the vicinity of the #4 body bolts but without having a convertible I can't say for sure how they all interact/attach. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry, here are a couple of pictures. I'm wondering if I removed the rear cross member bolts thinking they were the body mounting bolts. Regardless, I'm still at a loss as to how to remove them.
Automotive tire Bumper Rim Motor vehicle Automotive design
Automotive tire Wood Rim Motor vehicle Automotive wheel system
 

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Those do appear to be the #4 mounts so I'll assume the others you removed were for the cross member.

The mount bolts are notorious for not cooperating, so consider yourself lucky if the other 6 came out easily.

I had to use a sawzall to cut the heads off of my #4 bolts. You can use a chisel to eat away at the spacer/cushion to get better access or just use the sawzall (I did both methods - 1 for each side).

Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

Paul
 

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I concur. Those are the #4 mounts at the rear. There are caged nuts on the frame, if they strip or turn in the mount then do what nwav8tor says. New cages and nuts are available from the Corvette suppliers like Zip or Ecklers. Usually the ones that really rust are the #3 mounts by the torque box where the rear frame rails kick up. They are accessible through the panels at the front of the rear wheel wells. That is a common area to find severe frame rust so examine it carefully with the body off.

By the way, the 80-82 C3 has a ninth body mount at the very tip of the front "crash bar". I'm not sure exactly what year this started but I know the 80-82 has this mount. So if anyone is lifting the body on one of those years be sure to remove this mount. Some say the body front must be supported, others say it's not necessary. Personally, I advise either removing weight like the hood and headlight assemblies or rig a brace of some sort. The front mount is the same part number as the C2 body mount.
 

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When it comes time to remount the body remove the guesswork of alignment by getting 2 - 7/16" (0.4375") rods about a foot long. The rocker panels on each side have 2 holes each. On the drivers side, the front hole lines up with a hole in the frame. On the passenger side, the rear hole lines up with a hole in the frame. Insert the rods through those holes then guide the body down so that the rods go through the matching holes in the frame. There will still be enough "play" to make fine adjustments but the rods keep it close enough that you won't hit or break anything on the way down. My assembly manuals only go back to 78 but the older C3's may have the same setup. I've never had the body off on one of the older ones. Keep us posted with your progress and/or problems!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for both responses. Yes, the 71 factory assembly manual has the same diagram. My problem is accessing the caged nuts because in Roadsters they are in depressions under the rear deck lid hinges. There are two bolts attaching the top of each hinge to the body that face forward and are behind and above the lip of the body. Nearly impossible to get to. Since neither of your pictures show Roadsters you probably don't have any ideas about how to remove them.

Again, thanks for the responses.

Jim
 

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71 LT1 Roadster you are correct, I've never been into a Roadster but I imagine someone here has. As far as removing the rear body mounts the heads of the bolts are exposed so that leaves you with a couple of choices. A sawzall would probably work. Or a small die grinder with an abrasive wheel. Or a die grinder with carbide burrs. Maybe an angle grinder. Might be possible to have a friend hold the bolt head with a box end wrench and drill the head off. That would probably be the slowest and most difficult. I'd try the sawzall. The angle grinder would be fast but watch the heat it would generate. Spray water on it frequently.
Good luck, let us know how it comes out!
 
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