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Discussion Starter #62
Hey Bill- Looking GOOD!!!

I just bought two of the bigger sheets off eBay.

And will copy your "installation" tools!!!

THANKS for the info-

Richard
Hey man, good luck. It can be a pain, but just don't get in a hurry. I started at the back because it's fairly flat and square. Cut patterns first using poster paper, and used a small pair of super scissors to cut the ZC with, worked better than metal shears.
Bill
 

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did I miss something? what's the reason for the spacer?
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Im thinkin C4 blower for more air.:crazy:
Yep,
The squirrel cage fan has more blades and is longer. It was discussed here many times and the general consensus was that it increased air flow considerably. Since I had the housing off the firewall I figured I'd do it as an upgrade. Of course the wiring will be upgraded and all hvac and cowl vent seals and flaps are being replaced so I won't really know how much difference this change really makes. But it should blow like new at least!
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #69
more progress pics

Of course it's supposed to be an LS/t56 swap, but it's all the other stuff along the way that has to be done that takes so long. And one thing about it, when you go this far into a vette you'll know all the right question to ask if you ever buy another one!

The dash panel for the gauge cluster had a broken screw tab. These panels are made of 40 year old hard plastic and are prone to break and crack. Here is my method of repair, I think MCU bonds better to this plastic than fiberglass resin and has a little more flex when fully cured.



Nothing there for the screw to attach to.



Bead blasted the plastic area and bonded cloth well into the panel for the repair to get strength.







Cured overnight





Buzzed to fit with air sander








There will be more of this, as whatever dash and console pieces aren't being replaced will certainly have cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter #71






"82 Steering column in and working with the '71 wheel and borgeon box!



Yet another purchase to steal bits of time off the vette!



Cleaning up wiring and retaping in prep for the headlight motor conversion





Mercedes 350sl fuel sender





Getting these apart to be powdercoated



And of course more glass repair






 

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Discussion Starter #73
More progress pics headlights

Got the headlight bits back from the powdercoater.



getting it back together


Made it all silver grey so I could see the parts! It's dark in the nose of the vette with everything black.



Stainless rebuild kit from zip, those springs go on the other slots...


Kit had later stamped steel bearing holders, originals were cast alloy. I decided to use the new ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Front spindles

Damn powdercoater sandblasted the spindles! He's a great guy and does a good job, but he should never sandblast a polished steel bearing surface...



Polished out ok if it didn't cost too much metal, quick check with a caliper shows they're both out of round anyway.



And on top of that, PC in the threads! This hole ain't a standard size! Shoulda had a zanex, it wasn't that bad and I used some strong arm spray and the original bolt to work in and out a couple times 'till it turned in easily.

 

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It's coming along nicely, it is all the little details that make the swap take forever, but it's well worth the time spent.

A quick thought on the AC box, I believe you will have a clearance issue with the box being too big and hitting the valve cover if not also the head. I trimed mine down as an AC delete box, and it still had a tight fit with the valve cover. I hope it clears for you.

How soon will you be dropping the engine in?

Riggs
 

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Discussion Starter #77
It's coming along nicely, it is all the little details that make the swap take forever, but it's well worth the time spent.
A quick thought on the AC box, I believe you will have a clearance issue with the box being too big and hitting the valve cover if not also the head. I trimed mine down as an AC delete box, and it still had a tight fit with the valve cover. I hope it clears for you.
How soon will you be dropping the engine in?
Riggs
Geez Riggs, really? :surprised I haven't heard anyone mention that problem. Really is the last thing I need though. Did you have to delete the AC? Or how did you trim the box down? Did your motor mounts possibly put the motor further back or something?
Damn, I'm worried now... :bang

It'll be a few weeks yet before I get the motor in. Still need to get the AC evap plumbed, brake master on and plumbed, vacuum ball mounted, headlights in and wiper door in and electrics done. Then maybe I'm almost ready to start in that direction.
Thanks much for the heads up! I'd much rather know something like this in advance.
 

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I rebuilt my stock air box. Then I put the body on the rolling chassis. Then I realized that I could not put the air box back on the car with the motor in. I took off the headers and tried different stuff but no go.
Then after all of that I went with a vintage air setup and it did not matter anyway.
Seems all of these builds are different so YMMV, but keep that in mind later on. :thumbsup:
 

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I just looked at mine to verify what I wrote. The heads and valve cover are close, but it's the headers that wouldn't clear at the rear header port leaving the cyclinder head. If you are running cast iron manifolds, it might be fine, but very close.
I just remember the AC box being a clearance issues. My motor is also set back one inch, if yours is not, this my eliminate this issues for you.
I hope I'm wrong and it works out for you.

Riggs
 
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