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Discussion Starter #1
Some of you guys have seen this posted in CF a couple of weeks ago, but for those that didn't, again, please don't kill me on my welds. Some were perfect, others well...sucked. But anyway, it is all in and buttoned up at this point.

In fact, the very worst 2 welds are the ones u see in the pics, should have redone them, but it is done now at least. The rest of the recent pics are so blurry that u can't see anything.

The main thing is the thing is removable, which took forever to setup making the bolt in plates etc. I'll try to get some more recent pics that don't focus on my worst welds, lol. This took forever, because I had to redo the rear body mounts, fuel system etc. while I was at it.

Going in a '76 with a 427 sbc.
Dart Little M 427, Scat 4340 crank, Scat 4340 7/16" I beam rods. 11:1 cr
AFR Eliminator 210 heads (CNC ported)
Comp cams custom solid roller: 630/630; 252/258 @ .050 with 111 degree LS

1 7/8" Hooker header/sidepipes with 4" pipes and spiral baffles
Has a Tremec TKO 5-speed, offset TA's, cry treated spindels, Dragvette 6-link and flanged stubshafts.

Edelbrock proflo EFI setup with a new chip and 48 lb Venom injectors. Looking to also upgrade to the Victor EFI manifold rather than the Victor Jr. based intake that I have.

Just read an article in 'Engine Masters' magazine that has a 427 Dart aluminum block with my same heads, CR, solid roller .578/.582; 248/254; 112 degree LS. This motor put out 584 hp at 6,200 on 91 octane, and admittedly a 750 carb that shorted the top end hp. So by comparison, I am hoping that my motor puts out close to 600.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I uploaded the pics to 'my pictures' but I can't seem to get the attachement thing going, sorry. I'll read up on how to do this and try to get em posted.



 

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Dave: No pics yet. Since you are using plates and making it a bolt-in bar, can I assume it's for show and not race use?

Dep
 

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Sure bolting wont be as strong but it is still bolted using 4 bolts into the frame for each bar. In no way is it for show. ;)

Show would a chrome bar that bolts to the fiberglass. :D
 

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Sure bolting wont be as strong but it is still bolted using 4 bolts into the frame for each bar. In no way is it for show. ;)

Show would a chrome bar that bolts to the fiberglass. :D
I'm not very keen on bolt-in bars. I figure if you are going to go through the effort, might as well get the strongest one you can get. There's a reason why major race associations (NHRA, IHRA, etc) specify welded-in roll bars ;)

Dep
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Actually, the NHRA rule book indicates bolt in bars are allowed, if I remember correctly, down to 10.0 with a full framed car. That's why I went bolt in even though welding would be stronger. This should be NHRA legal, but I haven't had it go through tech yet, so I'll find out if I'm mistaken. The down bars in back are 30* from vertical, shoulder harness and side bar <4" below my shoulder etc. Only thing left is the mounting for the harness so I'm looking for info on how to weld the tabs on exactly?

I did want it removable so I could work on the car in the future and not have to cut it out, lol. I'll try to post the pics again, sorry they didn't upload properly.

Any info on how to weld the harness tabs for the shoulder and crotch straps?
 

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Don't have my rulebooks handy. I do remember times affecting whether a roll bar or roll cage is installed.

Dep
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got a few more pics that are better after everything was installed. Will post them in a sec.

Push down the track? Oh man, your killin' me, LOL. I really can take criticism guys, so you won't offend me. Was actually thinking about cutting out and rewelding a few of my welds and adding a couple of gussets on the door bar. Frankly, this was my first project requiring welding, so I am fairly pleased with it overall, the fitment was particularly hard (for me) as I had to miss the interior panels, stock seat belts, had hardly any clearance between the stock seat and door and door sills, battery door etc. Everything fit pretty snug really, and I can even open/unlock the door from the inside!

Also, If I get called on the bolt in cage, I can easily weld it in at this point, and with the 1/4" plates, it should be pretty stout.
 

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here are a couple of your pics:







Looks like good work to me! Seems like a good way to go if it's not a dedicated track car and you want to be able to remove it in the future without a cut-off wheel!
 

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I got a few more pics that are better after everything was installed. Will post them in a sec.

Push down the track? Oh man, your killin' me, LOL. I really can take criticism guys, so you won't offend me. Was actually thinking about cutting out and rewelding a few of my welds and adding a couple of gussets on the door bar. Frankly, this was my first project requiring welding, so I am fairly pleased with it overall, the fitment was particularly hard (for me) as I had to miss the interior panels, stock seat belts, had hardly any clearance between the stock seat and door and door sills, battery door etc. Everything fit pretty snug really, and I can even open/unlock the door from the inside!

Also, If I get called on the bolt in cage, I can easily weld it in at this point, and with the 1/4" plates, it should be pretty stout.
:laughing:

I was actually referring to dep
 

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"All cars with OEM frame must have roll cage welded to frame."

Thanks Howard. :thumbsup:
 

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Why on earth did you bolt it in when you already had access to the frame for welding, you did weld on those base plates. Why not take out the bolts and weld the whole thing down? The bolts offer no shear strength, the cage will jsut snap off. I don't think you used some kind of dowel to help relief this shear strength issue? No bolted setup will ever be as strong as a proper welded cage.

Here's mine, thought I was done but I need to add a bar for the shoulder harness, will do a V type setup to get some more triangles in there amd to clear the dry sump tank, don't want to do a horiz. bar in the rear.



 

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Discussion Starter #19
Technically, this is a rollbar, not a rollcage (5 point) and there is a reference in the rule book regarding bolting in rollbars I believe, don't have my book as my brother has it or I would double check it.

Regardless, thanks for the input guys I do appreciate the honest feedback. Like I said before, I can easily weld this in still if required, but I definitely could not do it the other way around.

It looks like your making some progress TT? Didn't think I say the floorpan work the last time I looked?
 

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it's just a couple of alu sheets mounted on the whole frame under the car. A long way from finished. Today i added the last section of my cage structure, a big X in the rear to mount the seatbelts on, had to do an X because a diagonal bar wouldn't work w/ the dry sump tank. If only my pics were approved :D
 
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