[AdamG]

When I go to start my C4 the security light blinks and the engine does not crank or start. It has a brand new battery.

 

[Norm 1]

Welcome aboard! How about a little intro of yourself and what year C4?

 

[AdamG]

Welcome aboard! How about a little intro of yourself and what year C4?

I bought a 1992 corvette a few weeks ago, just now have the time to work on it. I went to start it and as stated, the security light blinks and the car does not crank when the key is turned. I think it may be the VATS, I bought some resistors and spliced in the correct one that goes with the key, and still it does not crank or show any signs of life.

 

[Norm 1]

I'm sure someone will chime in soon to give you a hand.

 

[autowiz]

The bypass assumes there is a problem with the pellet in the key or with the sensor or its wires at the ignition switch itself. This bypass will do nothing to help a failed CCM, ECM, or bad connections between the two.

Upgrading to an aftermarket engine controller is a good solution to consider.

 

[AdamG]

The bypass assumes there is a problem with the pellet in the key or with the sensor or its wires at the ignition switch itself. This bypass will do nothing to help a failed CCM, ECM, or bad connections between the two.

Upgrading to an aftermarket engine controller is a good solution to consider.

I took the starter off an took it to AutoZone in order to check it. the motor was seized. i have since replaced the starter and there is still no crank at all. Is a new ECM the only option, do you know where the starter relay is at in a 1992?

 

[autowiz]

Ya the starter relay is gonna be under the drivers side dash. You will need to remove the carpeted panel directly beneath the steering column to gain access to it.

The primary side of this relay are a yellow wire that gets power when the key is turned to crank. The ground for this circuit is a black - yellow wire that comes from the CCM.

The relay should have 2 yellow wires feeding it from the ignition. There should be a small wire that is black-yellow that we just discussed and the wire that goes to the starter should be a thick yellow-black wire.

I am betting if you jump the big yellow to the big yellow-black wire the car will crank just fine but still won't run. This is because the ECU will not fire the fuel injectors in this condition.

I believe you will get power on the yellow wires when you crank. The big Yellow-Black wire to the starter will show ground and if you energize it the car will crank nicely. But you will get nothing on this thin little black-yellow wire or it will show voltage from a pullup resistor. But never a ground.

 

[AdamG]

Ya the starter relay is gonna be under the drivers side dash. You will need to remove the carpeted panel directly beneath the steering column to gain access to it.

The primary side of this relay are a yellow wire that gets power when the key is turned to crank. The ground for this circuit is a black - yellow wire that comes from the CCM.

The relay should have 2 yellow wires feeding it from the ignition. There should be a small wire that is black-yellow that we just discussed and the wire that goes to the starter should be a thick yellow-black wire.

I am betting if you jump the big yellow to the big yellow-black wire the car will crank just fine but still won't run. This is because the ECU will not fire the fuel injectors in this condition.

I believe you will get power on the yellow wires when you crank. The big Yellow-Black wire to the starter will show ground and if you energize it the car will crank nicely. But you will get nothing on this thin little black-yellow wire or it will show voltage from a pullup resistor. But never a ground.

Ok, I have found and replaced the relay and it still doesn't start. I don't have the tools to remove the wires from the relay terminal in order to jump the wires like you spoke on. Is there anything else I can try before I have to replace the ecm, do you know where the ground is for the starter, maybe that's bad?

 

[AdamG]

Ya the starter relay is gonna be under the drivers side dash. You will need to remove the carpeted panel directly beneath the steering column to gain access to it.

The primary side of this relay are a yellow wire that gets power when the key is turned to crank. The ground for this circuit is a black - yellow wire that comes from the CCM.

The relay should have 2 yellow wires feeding it from the ignition. There should be a small wire that is black-yellow that we just discussed and the wire that goes to the starter should be a thick yellow-black wire.

I am betting if you jump the big yellow to the big yellow-black wire the car will crank just fine but still won't run. This is because the ECU will not fire the fuel injectors in this condition.

I believe you will get power on the yellow wires when you crank. The big Yellow-Black wire to the starter will show ground and if you energize it the car will crank nicely. But you will get nothing on this thin little black-yellow wire or it will show voltage from a pullup resistor. But never a ground.

Ok, I have found and replaced the relay and it still doesn't start. I don't have the tools to remove the wires from the relay terminal in order to jump the wires like you spoke on. Is there anything else I can try before I have to replace the ecm, do you know where the ground is for the starter, maybe that's bad?

 

[autowiz]

If the car is blocking out the starter it is also gonna be shutting down the fuel and getting past this hump by grounding a relay or jumping the starter will only bring you to a crank no start issue from a loss of injector pulse and there is no way to bypass or jump that off. You need to understand why the car is not engaging the relay on it's own.

I know I keep singing the same old song but one more time here we go..

This intake manifold:
Chevrolet Performance 24502592 Chevrolet Performance Carbureted LT1 Intake Manifolds | Summit Racing

This aftermarket EFI kit:
Holley Sniper 550-869 Holley Sniper EFI Quadrajet Self-Tuning Fuel Injection Systems | Summit Racing

This matched ignition system:
Holley Sniper 565-300K Holley Sniper EFI HyperSpark Distributor Kits | Summit Racing

This instrument panel:
Holley EFI 553-112 Holley EFI 6.86" Pro Dash

With this mount:
90-96 C4 Corvette Dashboard (reversionraceworks.com)

Wire it all in by itself from battery terminal to battery terminal without touching ANY of the vehicle's electrical system and start enjoying your C4 as the car it always wished it could be. You know, on the street not the shoulder or in your garage.

 

[AdamG]

If the car is blocking out the starter it is also gonna be shutting down the fuel and getting past this hump by grounding a relay or jumping the starter will only bring you to a crank no start issue from a loss of injector pulse and there is no way to bypass or jump that off. You need to understand why the car is not engaging the relay on it's own.

I know I keep singing the same old song but one more time here we go..

This intake manifold:
Chevrolet Performance 24502592 Chevrolet Performance Carbureted LT1 Intake Manifolds | Summit Racing

This aftermarket EFI kit:
Holley Sniper 550-869 Holley Sniper EFI Quadrajet Self-Tuning Fuel Injection Systems | Summit Racing

This matched ignition system:
Holley Sniper 565-300K Holley Sniper EFI HyperSpark Distributor Kits | Summit Racing

This instrument panel:
Holley EFI 553-112 Holley EFI 6.86" Pro Dash

With this mount:
90-96 C4 Corvette Dashboard (reversionraceworks.com)

Wire it all in by itself from battery terminal to battery terminal without touching ANY of the vehicle's electrical system and start enjoying your C4 as the car it always wished it could be. You know, on the street not the shoulder or in your garage.

I'm a 21 year old college student, I'm trying to get this car back on the road and don't have 4k to dump into a car. is there anything else you can think of?